Kuti mukafike ku Tecolutla, tengani mseu waukulu. 129 muyenera kuyenda pafupifupi 500 km, kuwoloka zigawo za Hidalgo ndi Puebla, musanafike ku Poza Rica komwe mumadutsa ku Papantla kapena kupita kumpoto, ngati mukufuna kupita ku Tuxpan.
Nthawi ino tidachoka ku Mexico City mamawa chifukwa tikufuna kupita pagombe nthawi yamasana.
Malo okongola, odzaza ndi ma conifers, amasangalala paulendowu, amalimbikitsidwa masana chifukwa chifunga chimadziwika kwambiri pakati pa Acaxochitlán ndi Huauchinango, komwe kulinso malo ogulitsira zakumwa zoledzeretsa komanso zipatso zam'madera. Mwa njira, kutalika kwa damu la Necaxa, tawuni ya San Miguel, malo ena ogona ndi malo odyera ali oyenera kuyimitsidwa kuti mutambasule miyendo yanu ndikusangalala ndi mawonekedwe owoneka bwino.
Koma, komwe tikupita ndi kwina, timapitilira msewu wokhotakhota, womizidwa mu nkhungu ndipo tikutsika kale, titadutsa Xicotepec, minda yayikulu ya nthochi imawoneka. Sizitenga nthawi kuti tipeze ogulitsa zipatso zokazinga, zotsekemera kapena zamchere pamwamba, zomwe zimakhutitsa chilakolako chathu chofuna kudya ndi kukoma kwawo kwapadera.
Kulowa ku Papantla, komwe kuli 43 km kumadzulo kwa Tecolutla, ndipo komwe kunakhazikitsidwa ndi a Totonacs mzaka za 12th, chikwangwani chikuwonetsa kuti ndi makilomita asanu okha kuchokera pomwe pali malo ofukula zakale a El Tajín, ndipo ngakhale sanaphatikizidwe m'malingaliro athu Ndizovuta kwambiri, chifukwa chake timasintha njira kuti tidziwe mzinda wakale wa Spain usanachitike mwangozi mu 1785 pomwe wogwira ntchito ku Spain amafuna fodya wachinsinsi.
MOPEREKA MULUNGU WA CHIGONJAMBO
Pofika, pabwalo lalikulu lofikira malowa, atazunguliridwa ndi malo azamalonda odzaza ndi maluso ndi zovala zachikhalidwe m'derali, chiwonetsero cha Voladores de Papantla chikuyamba, chimodzi mwazinthu zodabwitsa kwambiri pakati pa miyambo yaku Mesoamerica, yomwe chizindikiritso chake chalumikizidwa ndi kupembedza kwa dzuwa ndi chonde padziko lapansi. Anthu omwe amawona mwambowu kwa nthawi yoyamba amadabwa ndi kulimba mtima kwa ovinawo akamakwera pamwamba pa thunthu lalitali ndikumangidwa ndi zingwe m'chiuno mwawo amatsika mozungulira mozungulira 13, kutsanzira ziwombankhanga zikuuluka, mpaka atakhudza pansi ndi mapazi awo.
Titatha kusangalala ndi zokumana nazo zodabwitsazi, ndikudziwunikira momwe malowo adakhalira, tidalowa mu Museum pomwe njira yoyeserera inali chitsogozo choyambirira. Amalongosola kuti kapangidwe ka mzinda wamphepete mwa nyanjayi, wochokera ku Totonac, umadziwika ndi kuphatikiza kophatikizana kwa zinthu zitatu, malo otsetsereka, ziphuphu za zipilala ndi chimanga chouluka, kuphatikiza pazoyenda. Komanso, akuwonetsa kufunikira kwa Masewera a Mpira, masewera mwamwambo, popeza minda 17 yapezeka pamenepo.
Timataya nthawi tikamayenda pakati pa nyumba zodabwitsazi zomwe zimafalikira kudera la 1.5 km2, zomwe kale zimakhala ndi akachisi, maguwa kapena nyumba zachifumu, ndipo zachidziwikire, timachita chidwi ndi Pyramid of Niches yoyambirira, yokhala ndi zikopa zake za 365 mosakaika zofananira ndi chaka cha dzuwa ndi zigawo zake zingapo, zosiyana kwambiri ndi zipilala zina zisanachitike ku Spain. Ulendo wathu umatha pokhapokha atachenjeza za kutsekedwa kwina kwa malowa, komwe kumapangidwa ndi fungo labwino la vanila, omwe mipiringidzo yake imagulitsidwa kwa alendo.
KULowera KU MPHUNGA
Mdima umakhala mdima tikamalowa ku Gutiérrez Zamora, mofananamo ndi malo am'mbali mwa Mtsinje wa Tecolutla, kulowera ku tawuni ya alendo odziwika. Ku Hotel Playa "Juan el Pescador" mwini wake, a Juan Ramón Vargas, purezidenti wa Association of Hotels and Motels, atiyembekezera kuyambira masana, wokonda kwawo komwe adachokera komanso wowongolera malo owoneka bwino kuderalo, zambiri kupitirira magombe kapena malo odyera osawerengeka okhala ndi mbale zokoma, kutengera zipatso za kunyanja.
Ndendende, palibe chabwino kuthana ndi voracity ya maora amenewo kuposa kusangalatsa mkamwa ndi chakudya chokoma cha shrimp ndi nsalu ya nsomba ndi msuzi wa adyo, limodzi ndi masamba, titakhazikika mchipinda chathu choyang'ana kunyanja. Pambuyo pake, timayenda m'misewu yodekha ya mtawuniyi yomwe ili ndi anthu pafupifupi 8,500, munyengo yayitali imagwiranso pafupifupi pafupifupi katatu chiwerengerochi, anthu ambiri ochokera kumayiko ena, komanso ochokera kumadera ena oyandikana nawo, monga Hidalgo, Puebla kapena Tamaulipas.
Kuphatikiza apo, amasonkhanitsa mipikisano iwiri yayikulu mdziko muno, ya Sábalo ndi ya Róbalo, yomwe imakhudza anthu ambiri okhala ku Tecolutla ndi Gutiérrez Zamora, kuyambira pomwe asodzi awo ndi mabwato awo amasuntha kwa opikisanawo ndipo akutsogolera bwino, pomwe zipinda zake 1,500 zimadzazidwa, ndikugawidwa m'mahotela ena 125, ambiri aiwo eni ake, ndi malo odyera oposa zana, omwe amapezeka mdera lanyanja. Momwemonso, amatiuza za chochitika china chapachaka chofunikira kwambiri kwa anthuwa, Chikondwerero cha Kokonati, komwe kokonati wamkulu kwambiri padziko lapansi amakonzedwa, popeza chaka chatha chokha adakonza ma coconut zikwi zisanu ndi chimodzi ndi matani awiri a shuga, mwa zina. Mosakayikira, chikondwerero chilichonse chimapereka zifukwa zomveka zobwerera kumudzi wosodzawu.
DZIKO LAPANSI LA DZIKO LAPANSI
Chimodzi mwazosangalatsa za Tecolutla ndi magombe okhala ndi anthu ambiri, popeza pali pafupifupi 15 km ya m'mphepete mwa nyanja moyang'anizana ndi nyanja, nthawi zambiri ndimafunde ofunda komanso ofunda, kupatula panthawi yomwe kumpoto kunagwa. Koma, chodabwitsa chachikulu kwa apaulendo ndi malo am'mbali mwa Mtsinje wa Tecolutla, womwe, ngakhale m'mawa, tikukonzekera kuyenda mu bwato la "Pataritos". Mwa njira, dzina labwino la bwatolo limabwera chifukwa cha kusankha kwa wamkulu mwa ana ake, yemwe adalitcha choncho pomwe anali akuyamba kulankhula.
Pali malo ena atatu opezekapo, El Silencio, okhala ndi ma kilomita asanu oyenda, oyenda bwino m'mangolopa komanso okongola osatheka kufotokoza m'mawu. Osati pachabe dzina la madzi akumbuyo, chifukwa injini ikazimitsidwa ngakhale phokoso lochepa kwambiri la tizilombo kapena mame omwe amagwa pang'onopang'ono kuchokera pamwamba pa tchire amamveka. Kupitilira apo, tikupita ku Estero de la Cruz, pafupifupi 25 km, pomwe snook imakonda kuwedza, pomwe chiphalaphala cha Naranjo, chachikulu kwambiri, chokhala ndi pafupifupi 40 km, chimadutsa malo owetera ng'ombe ndi madera a lalanje. Ndi malo okongola, oyenera kuwonera mbalame, timawona mbalame zazing'ono, ziphuphu, mbalame zotchedwa parakeets, redfish, ziwombankhanga, nkhwangwa, zitsamba kapena abakha amitundu yosiyanasiyana. M'malo mwake, kuyenda m'miyambo kumalimbikitsa kulumikizana kwathunthu ndi chilengedwe, chokhoza kukhazikika m'mawa umodzi wonse nkhawa zonse zomwe zimabwera kuchokera ku likulu lalikulu.
Pobwerera, Juan Ramón amatitengera komwe Fernando Manzano, wodziwika bwino ndi anthu am'dzikoli monga "Papa Tortuga", yemwe, wamkulu wa gulu lazachilengedwe Vida Milenaria, wakhala akumenya nkhondo yolimba yoteteza akamba am'nyanja kwa zaka zambiri. kubereka ndi kumasula chaka chilichonse pakati pa mazira asanu ndi sikisi zikwi kuchokera m'mazira akomweko chifukwa chodziwa zambiri, mothandizidwa ndi odzipereka ambiri ndi mabanja awo, poyenda magombe oyandikira. Ndipo tisananyamuke kupita ku Costa Smeralda, timapita kukaona malo osungira vanila ku Gutiérrez Zamora, a banja la a Gaya kuyambira 1873, komwe amafotokoza njira zonse zofunikira kuti atenge zipatso kapena zonunkhira za zipatso zonunkhira izi.
NJIRA YA PUERTO JAROCHO
Panjira yayikulu yopita kumzinda wa Veracruz, komwe kumatchedwa Costa Esmeralda kumafutukuka, njira yokongola yokhala ndi mahotela ang'onoang'ono, ma bungalows, misasa ndi malo odyera. Tidayimilira pang'ono ku Iztirinchá, umodzi mwam magombe olimbikitsidwa kwambiri, pafupi ndi Barra de Palmas, komwe kuli kotheka kupha nsomba ndikupumula momasuka. Kuchokera pamenepo mseu umachoka pagombe, kupita ku Santa Ana, komwe timapeza malo ogona ndi odyetsa osavuta, ngakhale kuli ku Palma Sola ndi Cardel komwe timapezanso malo ogona osiyanasiyana. Kumeneko timanyamula mafuta ndipo mseu waukulu wa misewu inayi wopita ku doko ukuyamba, ngakhale omwe akufuna kugona pagombe lamtendere amatha kupita ku Boca Andrea kapena ku Chachalacas, umodzi mwodziwika kwambiri chifukwa cha milu yake yayikulu.
NKHOSA YAMPHAMVU ...
Tikangolowa mumzinda, timapita ku cafe yachikhalidwe ya La Parroquia kuti tikamwe khofi wokoma, wolimba kwambiri, pabwalo lake loyang'ana njira yayikulu. Tili pamtima wofunikira kwambiri m'boma la Veracruz, limodzi mwa anthu olemera kwambiri mdziko muno, lodzala ndi mafuta, nsalu ndi mafakitale a mowa, mphero za shuga, malo opindulitsa aulimi ndi ziweto, omwe adakula kwambiri munthawi yamakoloni pomwe gulu la anthu olemera New Spain idachoka padoko lake ikulowera ku doko la Havana, ndi zombo zodzaza ndi golide, siliva ndi zinthu zilizonse zokhumbidwa ndi korona waku Spain.
Alexander de Humbolft adalongosola mzindawu mu Political Essay yake pa Kingdom of New Spain ngati "wokongola komanso womangidwa pafupipafupi." Ndipo panthawiyo idawonedwa ngati "chipata chachikulu cha Mexico", momwe chuma chonse cha madera akuluakuluwa chidafikira ku Europe, popeza ndiye doko lokhalo ku Gulf lomwe limaloleza kulowa mkati mwake. Galantry wakudziko ameneyo amasungidwa pamalo ake odziwika bwino, pomwe zolemba za mwana jarocho zimasakanikirana madzulo ndi za danzon womulera, m'makonde odzaza ndi anthu wamba komanso alendo, omwe usiku ulibe malire. M'bandakucha, timakonda kuyenda modabwitsa kutsogolo kwa hotelo ku Boca del Río, ndipo tisanapitilire kum'mwera, timapita ku Aquarium, mosakayikira ndi imodzi mwabwino kwambiri padziko lapansi, yokhala ndi mitundu yambiri yam'madzi. Ndi malo ofunikira kwa aliyense wokonda zachilengedwe.
KULowera ALVARADO
Timadutsa njira yolowera kummwera. Tikuyang'ana ku Laguna Mandinga, komwe malo odyera omwe ali m'mbali mwa mitsinje adatsekedwa ndipo tikupitiliza kupita ku Antón Lizardo, komwe kumateteza mudzi weniweni wa asodzi.
Pafupifupi 80 km kutali, Alvarado akutiyembekezera, amodzi mwamalo owoneka bwino kwambiri mderali, omwe ali ndi mbiri yabwino, chifukwa kuli kotheka kudya nsomba zam'madzi zamtundu uliwonse komanso nsomba zamitundumitundu pamitengo yopanda pake, yokhala ndi mtundu wabwino kwambiri. .
Ndisanayendere malowa, ndimadziwa za mavesi a wolemba ndakatulo a Salvador Vives, omwe adawatcha kuti "Doko laling'ono, mudzi wosodza womwe umanunkhiza nkhono, fodya ndi thukuta. Nyumba yoyera yoyera yomwe imadutsa m'mphepete mwa nyanja ndikuyang'ana kutsidya la mtsinje ". Zowonadi, ngati kuti idawuma nthawi, likulu lake lakale limasungabe bata lodabwitsa kwa otanganidwa masiku ano. Nyumba zazikulu zoyera zokhala ndi makonde akulu komanso amithunzi zikuzungulira bwaloli, pomwe pali kachisi wa parishi komanso nyumba yachifumu yokongola. Ndikokwanira kuyenda misewu ingapo kukafika padoko, yodzaza ndi mabwato osodza, ena atachita dzimbiri kale ndipo ena amakhala okonzeka kupita kunyanja, popeza kusodza ndi komwe kumapereka ndalama zambiri, popeza zokopa alendo sizinapeze malowa momwe amayenera. . Alvarado lagoon ndi mtsinje wa Papaloapan zimasonkhana kuti zitipatse malo achilendo.
Zachidziwikire, tisanapitilire kuyenda timadzipangira mpunga wokoma kupita ku tumbada, mtundu wa Alvaradeña mtundu wa paella wachikhalidwe, koma msuzi, wokonzedwa ndi nsomba zam'madzi ndi nsomba, komanso mabotolo ena okoma a nkhanu. Zakudya zochepa monga izi, mumtundu ndi kuchuluka kwake.
TINAPEZA MABWINO
Kuchokera apa msewu umadutsa pakati pa mabedi ambiri amiyala ndi magalimoto onyamula udzu wokoma nthawi zonse kuwoloka kukakonza mphero, omwe chimney zake zimatulutsa ulusi wosatha wa utsi wofiirira, chisonyezero cha ntchito yosalekeza m'miphero yawo ya shuga. Kutali mutha kuwona dera lamapiri la Los Tuxtlas, koma popeza tikufuna kudziwa zambiri za magombe apafupi, titadutsa Lerdo de Tejada ndi Cabada tidutsa kumanzere mumsewu wopapatiza, womwe pambuyo pa ola limodzi panjira zikatifikitsa ku Montepío.
Koma, pang'ono tisanapeze chikwangwani chaching'ono: "50 metres, Toro Prieto." Chidwi chimatipulumutsa ndikulowa mumsewu wafumbi tikupita kunyanja komwe timangopeza msasa wa zachilengedwe, Khola la Pirate, ndi khitchini zotsika mtengo, zomwe zimatseguka makasitomala amakono akafika.
Komanso pali gombe la Roca Partida, amodzi mwamalo omwe amakupangitsani kukhala kosatha. Kumeneko asodzi amayendera pansi pa phanga, lomwe, malinga ndi zomwe amafotokoza, amatha kuwoloka poyenda panyanja pang'onopang'ono.
Apanso, timabwerera kunjira ndipo kutatsala pang'ono kulowa tinafika pagombe la Montepío, komwe kuli mahotela angapo ndi nyumba za alendo, komanso ma palapas angapo odyera kutsogolo kwa nyanja. Cheteyo ndichabwino kwambiri kotero kuti nyimbo zanyumba zochepa mumudzi wapafupi zimamveka pamtunda wapanyumba yomwe tidasankha kuti tigone, pomwe tikusangalala kuwerengera nyenyezi zomwe zimawala mchipinda choyera chakumwamba pomwe mwezi wowala bwino umaunikirabe.
KUMAPETO KWA Ulendo
Tidafunsa woyang'anira hotelo za magombe abwino kwambiri omwe tingapeze pamaso pa Catemaco ndipo adati Playa Escondida ndi Hicacos. Chifukwa chake, m'mawa kwambiri tidanyamuka kupita kumzinda wotchuka wa mfiti, m'mbali mwa msewu wafumbi, wopindika kwambiri, osavomerezeka kuyenda usiku. Komabe, ndikofunika kulumpha, chifukwa posakhalitsa titapeza njira yopita kumtunda woyamba wa magombe omwe atchulidwawa, dzina lake silili pachabe, chifukwa ndi ngodya yokongola pakati paliponse, yomizidwa mu zomera zobiriwira, ku Zomwe ndizotheka kuzipeza mwakutsika masitepe oyenda mosakhazikika, kapena panyanja ndi bwato. Kunena zowona, ndi malo amatsenga, pomwe tikanafuna kuti sitimayo isatipulumutse.
Koma, chidwi chathu chimatigwira ndipo timapitiliza kupita ku Playa Hicacos, amodzi mwa malo ochepa omwe ali malo omwe kuli alendo osavuta alendo, komanso malo odyera ang'onoang'ono omwe amakhala ndi banja lochezera, okhoza kukonza imodzi mwazodzaza kwambiri za nsomba kuti talawa njira yonse. Mwa njira, titawafunsa "ngati zinali zatsopano", yankho lidamveka ngati nthabwala, "kuyambira lero, koma ndi dzulo masana".
Ulendowu udatha, ngakhale osadula mafuta ku Catemaco, komwe tidatsala tikufuna kuwoloka ku Island of the Monkeys, kapena kukawona mfiti wake wina. Koma, nthawi idayankha motero kubwerera ku Mexico City kudakhazikitsidwa. Komabe, njirayi idatilola kulowa m'malo osayembekezereka, mayendedwe am'mphepete mwa nyanja ndi magombe omwe ali ndi kuthekera kwakukulu kwakupezeka kwa apaulendo ambiri, okonda zokongola zachilengedwe zaku Mexico.
