Serape, imodzi mwazovala zachikhalidwe zachikhalidwe zaku Mexico, ili ndi kutambasula kwake, kufalitsa, kugulitsa ndi kugwiritsira ntchito, osati zachuma komanso ukadaulo wokha, komanso zokumana nazo padziko lapansi momwe owomba amizidwa, akuwonetsedwa kudzera kapangidwe kake ndi nsalu za nsalu zawo.
Mbiri ya serape ikhoza kutsatiridwa kudzera pakupanga nsalu za thonje ndi ubweya, zopangira zomwe amapangidwa, komanso kupezeka kwake mu trousseau ya amuna.
Chovalachi chimapangidwa m'malo osiyanasiyana mdziko muno, chifukwa chake chimasankhidwa ndi mayina osiyanasiyana; zofala kwambiri ndi tilma, jasi, jekete, jorongo, thonje, bulangeti ndi bulangeti.
Serape ndi chovala chapadera chomwe chimaphatikiza miyambo yaku America ndi ku Europe. Kuyambira koyamba amatenga ntchito ya thonje, utoto ndi kapangidwe; kuyambira chachiwiri, ntchito yokonza ubweya mpaka msonkhano wa nsalu; Kukula kwake ndikukula kwake kudachitika m'zaka za zana la 18 ndi 19, pomwe zidapangidwa modabwitsa (chifukwa cha maluso, utoto ndi mapangidwe omwe agwiritsidwa ntchito) m'malo ambiri m'malo otere a Zacatecas, Coahuila, Guanajuato, Michoacán, Querétaro, Puebla ndi Tlaxcala.
M'zaka zapitazi chinali chovala chosagawanika cha peons, okwera pamahatchi, ma chros, ma léperos ndi anthu amatauni. Nyumba zamtunduwu zomwe zimapangidwa kunyumba zimasiyana ndi ma sarape apamwamba omwe eni nyumba ndi abambo amavala kumaphwando, ku saraos, ku Paseo de la Viga, ku Alameda, monga amafotokozedwera ndi kujambula ndi ojambula, apaulendo nzika komanso akunja, omwe sakanatha kuthawa mtundu wa kapangidwe kake.
Serape imatsagana ndi zigawenga, Chinacos ndi Silvers; munawona okonda dziko lako pomenya nkhondo ndi wowukira waku America kapena France; ndilo lonjezo la omasula, osasamala komanso omvera kwa amfumu.
Pakulimbana kwa osintha ndi mbendera, pothawirapo kumsasa, chophimba cha iwo omwe agwera pankhondo. Chizindikiro cha Mexico pamene kuchepa kosavuta kuli kofunikira: ndi sombrero yokha ndi serape, a Mexico amadziwika, mkati ndi kunja kwa malire athu.
Serape, yamphongo yofanana ndi rebozo mwa akazi, imagwira ntchito ngati malaya, ngati pilo, bulangeti ndi zofunda pogona usiku wozizira m'mapiri ndi m'chipululu; Cape yokhazikika m'mitsuko, malaya oteteza mvula.
Chifukwa cha ukadaulo waukadaulo wake, utoto wake ndi kapangidwe kake, imadzisamalira mokongola mwina wapansi kapena wokwera pakavalo. Kupindika paphewa, imakongoletsa amene amavina, amabisala mawu achikondi a okonda, amawatsagana nawo; Ilipo kwa akwatibwi ndi mphasa ya mwanayo.
Kugwiritsa ntchito zovala zopangidwa ndi mafakitale kumayamba kutchuka, serape imachoka mumzinda kupita kumidzi, kupita kumalo komwe amalonda ndi okwera pamahatchi amavala komanso komwe okalamba safuna kuzisiya. M'mizinda imakongoletsa makoma ndi pansi pake; Zimapangitsa nyumba zomwe amasankhidwa kuti azisanjikiza ngati tapeti kapena pamphasa momasuka, ndipo zimathandizira kupatsa mwayi maphwando ndi "mausiku aku Mexico". Pamapeto pake, ndi gawo la zovala za ovina ndi mariisi zomwe m'mabwalo zimatsagana m'mawa m'mawa wa iwo omwe amakondwerera chochitika, kapena mwina amaiwala zokhumudwitsa.
Pakadali pano amatha kupangidwa mwaluso ndi makina otsogola kwambiri, kapena m'malo ophunzitsira omwe amisiri amagwiritsa ntchito nsalu zamatabwa, komanso kunyumba, kumalo osunthira kumbuyo. Izi zikutanthauza kuti, kuphatikiza pakupanga kwa serial komanso magawidwe antchito ambiri, pali mitundu ina yaukadaulo komanso mabanja omwe amasungabe kupanga wakale kwa serape.
Zogulitsazo ndizodziwika chifukwa cha luso lawo, kapangidwe kake ndi mtundu wawo, ndipo amayenera kuti agulitsidwe kumsika wina, kaya wakomweko, wachigawo kapena wadziko lonse. Mwachitsanzo, serape yamitundu yambiri yopangidwa ku Chiauhtempan ndi Contla, Tlaxcala, ndichinthu chofunikira kwambiri pazovala za "Parachicos", ovina ochokera ku Chiapa de Corzo, Chiapas. Ma jorongos amagulitsidwa kwa alendo ochokera mkati ndi kunja kwa dziko m'masitolo odziwika bwino amisiri aku Mexico. Mtengo wake umadalira mitundu yonse yazopangira komanso zinthu zopangira zomwe amagwiritsa ntchito.
Chifukwa chakupezeka kwake muzovala za amuna, munthawi yonse ya mbiriyakale komanso zojambula mdziko lathu, ofufuza a Ethnography Subdirectorate of National Museum of Anthropology adayamba ntchito yosonkhanitsa ma jorongos ochokera kumadera osiyanasiyana a Republic, zopangidwa m'magulu okhala ndi nsalu zakale kapena m'malo omwe anthu osamukira kudziko lina amaberekanso mitundu ya ntchito yofanana ndi komwe amachokera.
Kutolere kwa masarape ku National Museum of Anthropology kumaphatikizapo njira zingapo zopangira; lirilonse liri ndi makhalidwe omwe amatilola ife kuzindikira komwe amachokera. Mwachitsanzo, mindandanda yamitundu yambiri imatipangitsa kulingalira za nsalu zochokera ku SaltiIlo, Coahuila; Aguascalientes; Teocaltiche, Jalisco, ndi Chiauhtempan, Tlaxcala. Ntchito yovuta pakuwomba imatiuza ku San Bernardino Contla, Tlaxcala; San Luis Potosi; Xonacatlán, San Pedro Temoaya ndi Coatepec Harinas, State of Mexico; Jocotepec ndi Encarnación de Díaz, Jalisco; Los Reyes, Hidalgo; Coroneo ndi San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato.
Oluka nsalu omwe amajambula zithunzi ndi malo atavala zovala zawo amagwirira ntchito ku Guadalupe, Zacatecas; San Bernardino Contla, Tlaxcala; Tlaxiaco ndi Teotitlán deI Valle, Oaxaca. Kumalo omaliza komanso ku Santa Ana deI Valle, Oaxaca, amagwiritsanso ntchito ulusi wofiirira ndi utoto wachilengedwe ndikupanga zojambula za olemba otchuka.
Zimakhala zachilendo kuti serape yopangidwa kumbuyo kwa looms imakhala ndimatumba awiri olukidwa, onse awiri amalumikizana ndiukadaulo kotero kuti amawoneka ngati amodzi, ngakhale omwe amapangidwira pamalowo ali gawo limodzi. Ngakhale magawo awiri a sarape amalukidwa pamaloko, nthawi zambiri nsalu za chidutswa chimodzi zimapangidwa pamakina awa. Poterepa, hunchback imapangidwa kutsegula komwe mutu umadutsa ndipo chinsalu chimatsikira mpaka pamapewa. Dera ili komanso gawo lakumunsi la malaya ndiomwe amakonda kupanga mapangidwe apamwamba kwambiri. Nsonga ndi adagulung'undisa; m'malo ena amazigwiritsa ntchito kuzimanga, ndipo m'malo ena amawonjezerapo malire olukidwa ndi mbedza.
Popanga ma sarape, m'magulu osiyanasiyana mdzikolo zinthu zambiri zachikhalidwe zimasungidwa pakupota, kupaka utoto ndi kuluka ubweya kapena thonje, mumapangidwe ndi zida zantchito. Za ulusi wabwino waubweya ndi ma sarape a Coras ndi Huichols, komanso omwe amapangidwa ku Coatepec Harinas ndi Donato Guerra, State of Mexico; Jalacingo, Veracruz; Charapan ndi Paracho, Michoacán; Hueyapan, Morelos, ndi Chicahuaxtla, Oaxaca.
Omwe akuchokera ku San Pedro Mixtepec, San Juan Guivine ndi Santa Catalina Zhanaguía, Oaxaca, amapangidwa ndi ubweya ndi chichicaztle, ulusi wazomera womwe umapatsa ma jorongos mtundu wobiriwira komanso wonenepa komanso wolemera. Ku Zinacantán, ku Chiapas, amuna amavala thonje yaying'ono (colera), yoluka ndi ulusi woyera ndi wofiyira wa thonje, wokongoletsedwa ndi nsalu zamitundu yambiri.
Chovala chakumbuyo chimakhala chofunikira pakati pa oluka nsalu a Tzotzil, Tzeltal, Nahua, Mixes, Huaves, Otomi, Tlapanec, Mixtec ndi Zapotec. Miphika ya Chamula ndi Tenejapa, Chiapas, ndi yokongola; Chachahuantla ndi Naupan, Puebla; Hueyapan, Morelos; Santa María Tlahuitontepec, San Mateo deI Mar, Oaxaca; Santa Ana Hueytlalpan, Hidalgo; Jiquipilco, Boma la Mexico; Apetzuca, Guerrero, ndi Cuquila, Tlaxiaco ndi Santa María Quiatoni, Oaxaca.
Mtengo wonyika womwe amayi a Yaqui, Mayos, ndi a Rrámuri amagwiritsa ntchito kumpoto kwa dzikolo, muli zipika zinayi; Mitengo yomwe imalola chimango cha nsalu ndi kupanga ma sarape ku Masiaca, Sonora ndi Urique, Chihuahua, awoloka iwo.
Chojambula chimakhala chamatabwa; imagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga kukula kwakukulu mwachangu ndikubwereza mawonekedwe ndi zokongoletsera; Momwemonso, zimalola kuphatikiza njira zopangira. Zina mwazinthu zambiri zopanga serape, ochokera ku Malinaltepec, Guerrero; Tlacolula, Oaxaca; Santiago Tianguistenco, Boma la Mexico; Bernal, Querétaro, ndi El Cardonal, Hidalgo.
Serape wa Saltillo
Zimaganiziridwa kuti mzaka zonse za zana lachisanu ndi chitatu ndi theka loyamba la khumi ndi chisanu ndi chinayi, ma jorongo abwino kwambiri adapangidwa, omwe amatchedwa "zapamwamba" pazabwino komanso luso lomwe limakwaniritsidwa pakupanga kwawo.
Mwambo wokhotakhota pamiyala umachokera kwa a Tlaxcalans, ogwirizana ndi Crown waku Spain omwe amakhala kumadera akumpoto kwa dzikolo, omwe amakhala m'malo ena a Querétaro, San Luis Potosí, Coahuila, ndi ku Taos, Rio Grande Valley ndi San Antonio, aku United States aku North America pano.
Kukhalapo kwa malo owetera ng'ombe m'mbali izi kunatsimikizira zopangira ndi msika wa chovalachi, chomwe chidakhala chovala chokonda kwambiri cha omwe amapita kuchionetsero zaka za ku Saltillo. Kuchokera mumzinda uwu wotchedwa "Key to the Inland", amalonda amabweretsa zidutswa zapadera kuzokambirana zina: zokopa za Apache ku Taos ndi za San Juan de los Lagos, Jalapa ndi Acapulco.
Munthawi yamakoloni, mizinda ingapo imapikisana ndi masarape omwe amapangidwa ku Saltillo ndipo, pang'ono ndi pang'ono, dzinali limalumikizidwa ndi kalembedwe kena kodziwika ndi kapangidwe kake kabwino, mtundu ndi kapangidwe kake.
Komabe, kusintha kwandale komwe kunachitika pambuyo pa Ufulu kudasokoneza moyo wachuma wonse wadzikolo. Kuperewera kwa mbewu kumakhudza ziweto, komanso kusowa chitetezo pamisewu, mtengo wa ubweya komanso wa sarape, omwe ndi amuna okhaokha omwe angawagule ndikuwonetsa ku Paseo de la Villa ndi Alameda mumzinda. ochokera ku Mexico. Makomo otseguka amtunduwu amalola kubwera kwa azungu ambiri omwe ndi maso odabwitsidwa amawona magombe, malo, mizinda ndi azimayi aku terracotta ndi maso akuda. Mwa zovala zachimuna, sewero la polychrome la Saltillo lidakopa chidwi, kotero kuti ojambula monga Nebel, Linati, Pingret, Rugendas ndi Egerton adaligwira pamapangidwe osiyanasiyana. Momwemonso, olemba monga Marquesa Calderón de Ia Barca, Ward, Lyon ndi Mayer amafotokoza izi m'mabuku ndi manyuzipepala aku Europe ndi Mexico. Ojambula adziko lonse sathawa kutengeka kwake: Casimiro Castro ndi Tomás Arrieta amupatsa ma Iitograph angapo ndi zojambula kwa iye; mbali yawo, Payno, García Cubas ndi Prieto amapereka masamba angapo.
Polimbana kuti apatukane ndi Texas (1835), asitikali aku Mexico adavala sarape pamayunifolomu awo, omwe amasiyana ndi atsogoleri awo, monga omwe amavala ndi kutayika ndi General Santa Anna. Tsikuli komanso lomenyera nkhondo ku United States (1848), limakhala ndi mitundu ina ya serape mosavomerezeka, ndipo zomwe zidapangidwazo zimalola kuti mzere wazosinthika uzitsatidwe mzaka za Colony. Mpikisano womwe tatchulawu ukuwoneka kuti ukutanthauzira pachimake pakupanga kwa sarape komwe asitikali adanyamula kuti azikongoletsa nyumba zawo, komanso za abwenzi awo, alongo ndi amayi awo.
Nkhondo, ntchito yomanga njanji komanso chitukuko cha Monterrey zimakhudza chiwonetsero cha Saltillo ndipo zikuwonetsa kuti kuchepa kwa nsalu zangwiro zitha kuchepa mumzinda.
Serape wa Saltillo amatsata misewu yakumpoto. A Navajos adaphunzira kugwiritsa ntchito ubweya komanso kupota sarape ku Rio Grande Valley, Arizona, ndi Valle Redondo, New Mexico, momwe mawonekedwe a Saltillo. Mphamvu ina ikuwoneka kuti ikupezeka mu nsalu zina mdziko muno, mwachitsanzo ku Aguascalientes ndi San Miguel de Allende; komabe, zomwe zidapangidwa mzaka zambiri zomwe zatchulidwa ndizosiyana. Zomwe zimatchedwa Saltillo sarapes zomwe zimapangidwa m'malo osiyanasiyana ku Tlaxcala, komanso ku San Bernardino Contla, San Miguel Xaltipan, Guadalupe Ixcotla, Santa Ana Chiautempan ndi San Rafael Tepatlaxco, ochokera kumatauni a Juan Cuamatzi ndi Chiautempan, ndiabwino kwambiri mtengo waluso.
Kukongola kwa chovala chomwe chapyola malire athu, komanso ulemu waku Mexico chifukwa cha miyambo yawo, kwapangitsa kuti serapeyo ikhale yamoyo: ngati chovala chofunikira komanso ngati chizindikiro cha miyambo.
Source: Mexico mu Time No. 8 Ogasiti-Seputembara 1995
