CHIAPAS: YA MA GLOBETROTTERS OKHALA NDI NJALA YABWINO

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Chitani nafe paulendo wopatsa chidwi m'matawuni angapo mderali kuti musangalale ndi mbale zake zosawerengeka, zosakaniza zosakaniza ndi miyambo isanachitike ku Spain ndi mestizo.

Palibe zodabwitsa kuti ulendowu umathera pomwe udayambira, chifukwa ndimomwe zimachitikira. Ndikutanthauza kuti njirayi idamera mozungulira moto wachisanu, pomwe gulu lonse la Mexico Yosadziwika tinali ndi chipilín ndi cambray tamales pachakudya chamadzulo, monga Disembala lililonse. Nchifukwa chiyani nthawi zonse timapempha chinthu chomwecho? Inalinso imodzi mwazakudya zomwe ambiri amakonda monga ife, osati kuchokera ku Chiapas. Zozizwitsa khumi za chilichonse zinali m'mafashoni, bwanji osasanthula zakudya 10 zomwe amakonda ku Mexico? Ndipo tsopano tili pano ... tikufufuza momwe ma chipilín tamales amapangidwira ndikuphunzira zambiri za zozizwitsa zina zapadziko lino lapansi.

Júbilo tuxtleño

Zimanenedwa kuti mu Tuxtla palibe banja limodzi lomwe lilibe membala yemwe wakhala woyimba komanso wina yemwe sadziwa kupanga tamales. Kodi ndi zoona? Tidafika ku eyapoti ya likulu lino koyambirira kwa Loweruka masana ndipo zimawoneka ngati lingaliro labwino kwambiri kuti tiwunikenso zambiri zaulendo wathu mu bar ya botanero Guadalupana, malo otseguka, abwino kwambiri, okhala ndi nyimbo zaphokoso. Tidalamula Parrilla Guadalupana yomwe inali ndi churrasco, mbali ya nyama yang'ombe, nyama yankhumba, toreado chiles ndi nyemba. Kuphika kunali pa 2 × 1, chifukwa chake tidadya pang'ono ndikudzitsitsimutsa tisanapite ku Marimba Garden Park.

Sizokhululukidwa kupita ku Tuxtla osakhalitsa maola awiri kapena atatu ndikusangalala ndi chiwonetsero choyimbidwa ndi oyimba marimbístico komanso anthu omwe amachita nawo chidwi chakumadzulo kuja. Alendo ndi anthu am'deralo amasangalala ndikumva phwando lenileni. Tinaganiza kuti ndi chifukwa linali Loweruka lokha, koma adatiuza kuti pali nyimbo komanso kuvina masiku asanu ndi awiri pa sabata!

Tinangowoloka msewu kukakumana ndi Museum wa Marimba. Chomwe ndimakonda kwambiri ndikuti ndiyothandizana ndipo mutha kuyesa zida zina, miyala yamtengo wapatali ya sonic. Chosangalatsa kwambiri chinali kuwona chitsanzo cha yolotli kapena hole marimba, cha 1545 ndikupezeka pafamu ya Santa Lucía, m'boma la Jiquipilas. Ili pafupi makiyi 62 a kutalika kwa rosewood omwe amayikidwa masentimita 10 pamwamba pa dzenje panthaka, lomwe limagwiritsanso ntchito resonator. Ku nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale tidaphunziranso kuti Marimba ndi dzina la amayi ku Africa, komanso momwe chida ichi chidayambira mu kontrakitala, ndizomveka kuti chidatchedwa choncho. M'maola ochepa, tidazindikira kuti marimba akupitilizabe kudziwika komanso umodzi kwa anthu aku Chiapas ndipo tidakwanitsa kutisokoneza ndi chisangalalo chawo, pomwe tidabwerera kuphwando pafupi ndi kiosk mpaka usiku.

Omwe adatilandira adatitengera ku malo odyera odziwika bwino mumzinda ndipo mwina m'boma, Pichanchas. Ndizopadera kwambiri chifukwa zimawerengera chisangalalo, utoto, nthabwala zabwino komanso zakudya zabwino za anthu aku Chiapas. Kuchokera padenga pamakhala mabelu omwe muyenera kulira kuti mukondwere kutuluka kwa pumbo, chakumwa chopangidwa ndi chinanazi, madzi amchere, vodka, madzi achilengedwe ndi ayezi wambiri yemwe amapatsidwa bule kapena tecomate, kuyambira pamenepo mumayamba kuzolowera. Gabriel, woperekera zakudya wathu, adatifotokozera zam'mbuyomu ndipo adatiuza chimodzi mwazakudya zomwe zimayesedwa: tuxtlecas, turulas, salpicón, tchizi watsopano, jerky, nyama yosuta kuchokera ku San Cristóbal, masoseji, cochito ndi zithunzi. Ngakhale zakudya zokoma zonsezi zidawonetsedwa, ballet ya folkloric idawonetsedwa pakatikati pa malo odyera, omwe ali ngati khonde la nyumba zakale komanso zokongola kumwera chakum'mawa. Unali usiku wabwino kwambiri.

Zinsinsi za Vicenta

Oyendetsa maulendo samachoka ndi chidwi choyamba ndipo timadziwa momwe tingadzisungire mphindi zapadera. Mutha kukhala mukudabwa zomwe ndikutanthauza ... chifukwa tikadatha "kulowa" chipilin tamales kuchokera ku Tuxtla, koma nooooo, opusa ("khalidwe" lomwe limapezeka poyenda apa ndi apo), Tinkafuna kupita kunyumba ya katswiri kuti tikaphunzire momwe tingapange, ngakhale chipilin (Crotalaria longirostrata) ndizovuta kuzipeza kunja kwa Chiapas, chifukwa ndi nyemba zouma zokhala ndi masamba obiriwira obiriwira komanso kununkhira kosangalatsa komwe kumangomera mu dera.

Pomwe tidasamukira ku Comitán de Domínguez ndipo adatiwuza kuti zitsamba izi zimagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati mphodza zambiri monga msuzi wa chipilín wokhala ndi msuzi wa bolita kapena nyemba ndi chipilín (womwe umakhalanso ndi ng'ombe kapena nkhumba), ndimakumbukira mawu ochokera m'modzi mwa omwe watigwira nawo ntchito, a Jaime Bali, "Kuyang'ana ku Comitán de las Flores osadziwa mbiri yake kukuyimira chiopsezo chomwe wapaulendo aliyense wodzilemekeza sayenera kutenga. Ndikokakamizidwa kudziwa kuti mzinda wokongola uwu udakhazikitsidwa m'zaka za zana la 16th ndi Pedro Portocarrero, ndikuti mwina udali likulu ladziko lino. Ngakhale mbiri ndi nthawi zidachotsa mwayiwu ku Comitán, chowonadi ndichakuti idapeza mphotho zina chifukwa cha zochitika zingapo zokhudzana ndi zomwe Alejo Carpentier adazitcha kuti zenizeni zenizeni ”.

Pamenepo tinafika pakhomo la mayiyo Vicenta Espinosa, yemwe adatiitanira akumwetulira kuti tilowe ndipo tinangopita kukhitchini, popeza anali atakhala kale ndi zosakaniza zonse kuti atiphunzitse kupanga chipilín tamales. Anatiuza kuti Chinsinsi ichi chadutsa kuchokera ku mibadwomibadwo ndipo adayesetsa kuti amugwire, zomwe zidamupangitsa kukhala wotchuka ku Comitan, chifukwa malamulo atsiku ndi tsiku sachedwa kubwera. Chimodzi mwazinthu zofunika kwambiri zomwe Vicenta imagwira, mosiyana ndi zomwe tidakupatsani nambala 371, ndikuti iyeyo amawotcha chimanga ndi laimu ndikupita nacho kukagaya, ndikuti amakonza mtanda kunyumba. Kenako tidawona pafupifupi ntchito yonse ndikupanga ma tamales angapo naye. Anali atatikonzera kale, potuluka mumphikawo ndipo anatiitanira ku chakudya chokoma ichi chomwe anachiphika ndi msuzi wabwino kwambiri wokometsera womwe adapanga ndi tomato wophika komanso wosakanikirana, coriander ndi habanero tsabola (1 tsabola wa tomato uliwonse 10, ngati simukufuna zokometsera) . Patebulo pake tinkasangalala kucheza naye komanso kukoma kwa tamales ndipo ndikhulupirireni, adasungunuka mkamwa mwako! Kununkhira kwake kunali kosakhwima, kosanjikiza bwino kwa zosakaniza, kapangidwe kosalala, kodabwitsa chabe.

San Cristóbal, madera ozungulira, kununkhira kwake

Wokondwa kuti takwaniritsa cholinga chathu chachikulu, tinasamukira ku San Cristóbal de las Casas. Ndakhala ndikukhulupirira nthawi zonse kuti kufika usiku kumalo opita kumatsenga kuli ndi matsenga apadera, ndikulandiridwa mochenjera, kuphimbika ndikulandilidwa pang'ono. Zimapatsa chidwi kukoma paulendowu.

Titayenda kwakanthawi ndikusangalala ndi mawonekedwe osayerekezeka amzindawu, tidalowa malo omwe timakonda, bala Kusintha. Itha kuonedwa ngati yofunikira kwambiri. Zowonadi. Ili pa Main Walker (womasuka kwambiri komanso wachitapo kanthu), mpweya ndiwosalala, chakudyacho ndichabwino kwambiri komanso chili ndi mitengo yabwino, ndipo chinthu chabwino ndichakuti magulu awiri amawoneka tsiku lililonse (kuyambira Lolemba mpaka Lamlungu, jazi, salsa, reggae, blues , pazonse). Amakhala osachepera maola atatu akusangalala ndipo mutha kuvina. Hotelo yabwino Nyumba yakale Anali malo athu okhalako, tinalema ndi kutopa.

Tsiku lotsatira, dzuwa lidawulula zomwe Colony isanakhale Chigwa cha Jovel, ndi mapiri amenewo ndi utsi woyambirira womwe umapangitsa kuti ukhale wapadera komanso womwe umakumbutsa atsamunda akumpoto kwa Spain kwambiri. Kuyambira pamenepo, tawuniyi yakhala ikudziwika bwino: Guadalupe, Mexicoos, El Cerrillo, San Antonio, Cuxtitali, San Diego ndi San Ramón. Cholowa china cha atsamunda ndi mabwalo ake ang'onoang'ono ndi mipingo yoyandikana nayo. Zonse zokongola komanso zoyenera kuyamikiridwa. San Cristóbal ndi amodzi mwamalo omwe ndikulimbikitsanso kuyenda mainchesi ndi inchi ndipo nthawi iliyonse ndikaima kuti ndidye chikondamoyo cha chimanga, chitumbuwa cha apulo, ayisikilimu kapena chidutswa cha mkate, chomwe chili chapadera kwambiri mderali. Njira ina yabwino yodyera ndi malo odyera Minda ya San Cristóbal, pamsewu wopita ku San Juan Chamula, malo ake ndi ena mwamaubwino ake, chifukwa ndi malo okongola kwambiri omwe ali ndi malingaliro abwino ndipo ali panjira yopita kumidzi ya Tzotzil ndi Tzeltal. Kumeneko tinayesa zida zina zachi Creole monga supu ya buledi, cochito yophika, lilime la amondi ndi pepita ndi jerky.

Chiapa de Corzo: mbale ina yolimba

Tinakhala masiku angapo ku "San Cris", koma a Grijalva ankatiitana mwamphamvu, choncho tinapita ku Chiapa de Corzo. Kumeneko ulendo wokakamiza ndiulendo wa Malo osungira zachilengedwe a Sumidero Canyon. Mabwato amachoka padoko tsiku lonse.

Mumzindawu wokongola kwambiri wokhala ndi kutentha komanso kuzizira kwanthawi yayitali komanso nyengo za Renaissance, Mudejar ndi Baroque, palinso malo abwino komwe mungasangalale ndi chakudya cham'derali. Chitsanzo ndi Belu nsanja, komwe amatichitira bwino kwambiri ndipo tinayesa msuzi wa Zakudyazi ndi dzira lowira, chomera ndi zoumba, nyama yamphongo ya msuzi wa chiwindi ndi zitsamba zonunkhira, zotsekemera ndi chilmol, zonse zomwe zimatsagana ndi tchizi cha Rayón. Kenako, pambuyo pake komanso titayendera likatikati mwa mzindawu ndikukwera mabwinja a tchalitchi choyamba cha San Sebastián, woyera mtima wa mzindawo, tidakumana Babu yoyatsa, chotchinga sitepe imodzi kuchokera padoko. Tidapeza kuti ili paradaiso!

Maola ochulukirapo ku ZooMat

Pobwerera ku Tuxtla, tidapita "m'chipinda cha hotelo kuti tikapezenso mphamvu ndipo tsopano, tsiku lotsatira, tikulowa m'malo opitilira 100 mahekitala, El Zapotal, okhala ndi nyama zambirimbiri zomwe zimakhala m'malo ofanana ndi malo awo okhala. Tikukupemphani kuti muyende modekha ndikusangalala ndi malo osungira nyama, omwe amagawidwa ndi magazini ya Animal Kingdom ngati "abwino kwambiri ku Latin America".

Ndimakonda chilichonse chomwe chimamera ku Chiapas, ndi zobiriwira zomwe zimadzaza maso anu nthawi imodzi, ndi mathithi ake osangalatsa ndi nyanja zomwe zimadabwitsa ndi mawonekedwe osakhala enieni; ya mitsinje yake ndi mbewu iliyonse yomwe imalemera m'mbali mwake; Ndimakonda kubangula kwa saraguato ndipo ndikufuna kulira kwa nkhalango kuyang'anira bedi langa kuti ndilandire malingaliro abwino ndisanatseke maso anga. Koma tsopano ndagonjetsedwanso ndimakomedwe ake onunkhira kukhitchini, zomwe sizoposa zabwino zonse za anthu aku Chiapas, zina zomwe amapereka mokwanira.

5 Zofunikira ku Chiapas

-Dansi mu Marimba Park, ku Tuxtla.
-Tengani kapu yozizira ya tascalate.
-Kuchezera manda ndi mabwinja a tchalitchi chakale cha Woyera Sebastian ku San Juan Chamula, kuwonjezera pa tchalitchi chake chamakono, chotchuka padziko lonse lapansi.
-Pangani "batani lothinirana" pa Museum of Traditional Mayan Medicine ku San Cristóbal.
-Gulani zokongola nsalu ku San Lorenzo Zinacantán.

Pulogalamu ya ABC Zakudya za Chiapas:

-Chirmol: msuzi wa phwetekere wophika, wapansi komanso wosakanizidwa ndi chili, anyezi ndi coriander.
-Cochito: nkhumba ku marinade.
-Soseji: amakhala m'mizinda yakumtunda, monga San Cristóbal ndi Comitán, makamaka ma chorizos, masoseji, ma hams hams ndi ma longanizas.
-Pepita wopanda pake: mphodza yayikulu pamaphwando apadera kapena pa Januware Fair ku Chiapa de Corzo. Amapangidwa kuchokera ku njere za dzungu ndi mitundu yokhala ndi ma jerky (nyama zouma zoumba m'mizere ndi mchere).
-Picte: chimanga chokoma chokoma.
-Posh: nzimbe distillate.
-Pux-xaxé: mphodza ndi zidutswa za viscera ya ng'ombe, yokongoletsedwa ndi mole yopangidwa ndi phwetekere, tsabola wa tsabola ndi mtanda wa chimanga.
-Msuzi wa Mkate: magawo a mkate ndi ndiwo zamasamba, osambitsidwa mumsuzi wokometsedwa ndi zonunkhira zowunikira safironi.
-Tascalate: ufa wa chimanga wothira pansi, achiote, sinamoni, shuga womwe umakonzedwa ndi madzi kapena mkaka.
-Turula: zouma zouma ndi phwetekere.
-Tuxtleca: Ng'ombe yophika ndi mandimu.
-Tzispolá: msuzi wang'ombe wokhala ndi magawo a nyama, nandolo, kabichi ndi tsabola wosiyanasiyana.
-Zats: mbozi ya gulugufe usiku womwe umadziwika ku Highlands of Chiapas. Amaphika ndi madzi ndi mchere. Kukhetsa ndi mwachangu ndi mafuta anyama. Amadyedwa ndi tortilla, mandimu ndi tsabola wobiriwira.