Madera angapo achikhalidwe cha Tzeltal amakhala m'mphepete mwa mtsinje wamphamvuwu wokhala ndi madzi abuluu obiriwira, opangidwa ndi mchere wochuluka womwe wasungunuka. Ndipamene nkhani yathu imachitika ...
Ulendo wanu udayang'ana madera atatuwa omwe amawunikira chuma chawo komanso chikhalidwe chawo: San Jerónimo Tulijá, San Marcos ndi Joltulijá. Anakhazikitsidwa ndi a Tzeltal ochokera ku Bachajón, Chilon, Yajalón ndi madera ena, omwe posaka malo olima, kuweta ziweto zawo ndikukhala ndi mabanja awo, adapeza malo abwino okhala m'mbali mwa mtsinje. Titha kunena kuti atatuwa ndi achichepere, popeza adakhazikitsidwa kuyambira 1948, koma osati mbiri yazikhalidwe za anthu ake zomwe zidayamba kalekale.
San Jerónimo Tulijá, komwe madzi amayimba
Mpaka zaka zitatu zokha zapitazo, kufika kudera lino kuchokera ku Palenque kunatenga pafupifupi maola awiri, chifukwa mseu womwe poganiza kuti umayenera kulumikizana ndi nkhalango ndi Southern Border Highway, pakati pokhota, unakhala msewu wafumbi. Pakadali pano ulendowu wachepetsedwa mpaka ola limodzi chifukwa msewu udakonzedwa ndipo pali makilomita ochepa chabe kuchokera paulendo wopita ku Crucero Piñal kupita ku San Jerónimo.
Ndizomvetsa chisoni kuwona kuti zomwe kale zinali nkhalango zakutchire, lero zasandulika msipu. Wina amangopulumuka akawona kuti maderawo akusungabe, akuveka midzi yawo, mapiri omwe amaphulika ndi moyo. Malo othawirako omwe akhalabe nkhalango, mwina chifukwa cha kupatulika kwawo ngati mapiri amoyo, chifukwa chovuta kulima kwawo, kapena chifukwa chophatikiza zonse ziwiri. M'mapiri amenewa mumakhala nyama zambirimbiri monga sarahuato monkey, jaguar, njoka yoopsa ya Nauyaca, ndi tepezcuincle, yomwe anthu amakonda kusaka kuti apeze chakudya. Palinso mitengo ikuluikulu monga chicle, ceiba, mahogany ndi nyerere, mtengo womaliza womwe marimbas amapangidwira. Anthu aku Tzeltal amapita kumapiri kukasaka ndi kusonkhanitsa ndiwo zamasamba monga chapay, chipatso cha mgwalangwa womwe, pamodzi ndi mitanda, nyemba, mpunga, khofi ndi mazira a nkhuku, amapanga maziko azakudya zawo.
Kufika ku San Jerónimo ...
Tinafika usiku pomwe nthetemya yayikulu yakusiku, nthawi zonse yatsopano komanso yosatha, inali itapita kale. Zikwama zikwizikwi zikulira zimayimba nyimbo yomwe imapita m'mafunde osadziwika. Kumbuyo kwa mimbulu imamveka, amakonda mabasi ouma khosi, amayimba ndi mawu akuya komanso nyimbo yolemetsa. Mwadzidzidzi, ngati woyimba yekhayo, mkokomo wamphamvu wa sarahuato umamveka.
San Jerónimo ndi mudzi wokhala ndi malo okongola achilengedwe omwe amakupemphani kuti muganizire mwakhama mukamamvetsera nyimbo yopumula yamadzi. Mamita 200 okha kuchokera kubwalo lalikulu ndi mathithi a Tulijá. Kuti muwafikire, muyenera kuwoloka dziwe laling'ono lomwe limatumikirako, tsopano popeza kutentha kukukulira, monga malo oti anthu amisinkhu yonse azikumana. Matenda (amuna akulu m'deralo) amabwera kudzasamba pambuyo pa ntchito yawo kumunda; Ana ndi achichepere amafikanso omwe sakudziwa konse zoletsa za omwe amakhala mzindawo komanso omwe amayenera kukhala kunyumba; akazi amapita kukachapa zovala; ndipo aliyense amakhala limodzi akusangalala ndi madzi atsopano. Pakatikati pa kasupe, mtsinjewo utakhala wotsika, ndizotheka kuwoloka malire a mitengo ya m'madzi, ma trampolines achikulire, ndikutsikira m'madzi okongola amtambo ndi oyera.
Mathithi a Bethany
Pafupifupi kilomita imodzi kuchokera ku San Jerónimo, kuwoloka msipu wambiri wambiri ndi nkhupakupa zomwe kamodzi mthupi lathu zimayesetsa kuti zikwaniritse m'malo omwe dzuŵa silimatigunda, pali mathithi awa. Ndi zitsanzo za zomwe Agua Azul ayenera kuti anali - makilomita angapo kutsika - asanafike alendo. Apa madzi amtambo wamtsinje wa Tulijá amaphatikizana ndi madzi ozizira amtsinje wotchedwa K'ank'anjá (mtsinje wachikaso), womwe utoto wake wagolide umapezeka kuchokera ku mosses obadwira pamiyala yoyera pansi, yolumikizana ndi Dzuwa limayandikira kwambiri. M'paradaiso uyu, momwe mumakhazikika bata, mutha kuwona magulu awiri a mbalame zakutchire akumveketsa kulira kwawo ndi milomo yolemetsa mlengalenga, kwinaku akusambira m'mayiwe akuya omwe madzi amakhala asanagwe.
Bridge Lachilengedwe
Ndi tsamba lina lomwe silingaphonyeke munjira izi. Apa mphamvu ya Tulijá idadutsa m'phiri, kuchokera pamwamba pake mutha kuwona mbali imodzi mtsinje womwe umagunda makoma ake kuti ulowemo, ndipo mbali inayo, madzi omwe ali ndi bata amayenda kuchokera kuphanga panjira yake . Kuti tikafike kuphanga tidatsika phiri lotsetsereka, ndipo titatsitsimuka, tidadzipereka kusirira malowo. Malingaliro ochokera pansi ndi ovuta monga momwe amachitira kuchokera kumwamba, chifukwa munthu sangathe kulingalira momwe ngalande idapangidwira kudzera pamiyala ndi mabulashi.
Kubwerera ku San Jerónimo, mbale yokometsera ya nyemba zokoma ndi chapay, limodzi ndi mikate yatsopano, idatiyembekezera kunyumba kwa Nantik Margarita. Nantik (mawu omwe amatanthauza kuti "mayi wa aliyense", woperekedwa kwa azimayi azaka zawo komanso kuyenera kwawo ndi anthu ammudzi) ndi mayi wabwino komanso womwetulira, komanso wamphamvu komanso waluntha, yemwe amatisunga mokoma mtima kunyumba kwake.
San Marcos
Tikatenga dera laling'onoli la madera atatu ngati kuti amakhala mumtsinjewo, San Marcos adzakhala pamapazi awo. Kuti tifike kumeneko timadutsa msewu wafumbi womwewo wopita ku San Jerónimo kuchokera ku Crucero Piñal kulowera kumpoto, ndipo mtunda wa makilomita 12 okha tidakumana ndi anthu ammudzi. Ndi ranchería yaying'ono kwambiri kuposa San Jerónimo, mwina pachifukwa ichi mawonekedwe ndi mawonekedwe amderali amadziwika kuti amaphatikizidwa ndi chilengedwe.
Nyumbazi zili ndi mipanda ya maluwa yozungulira maluwa kutsogolo kwa mayendedwe awo komwe ziweto zimatha kuzemba. Anzake apamtima a munthu ndi nkhuku, nkhuku zankhuku ndi nkhumba, zomwe zimayendayenda momasuka m'misewu ndi m'nyumba.
Tili ndi atsogoleri athu komanso anzathu osatopa, Andrés ndi Sergio, tinapita kukazindikira zinsinsi zawo kuyambira ndi mathithi awo. Mugawo ili kayendedwe kake kumawonjezeka kwambiri mpaka kukafika kupitirira mamita 30 m'lifupi, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti kufikira mathithi. Kuti tifike apa tidayenera kuwoloka ndipo nthawi zina zinali pafupi kukoka zingapo, koma chiwonetsero chomwe chidatiyembekezera chinali choyenera.
Pamaso pa thanthwe lalikulu kwambiri losemedwa bwino ndi madzi, mofananira mawonekedwe apiramidi a Mayan omwe adadyedwa ndi phirilo, ndiye mathithi akulu kwambiri mderali. Amathamangira mwamphamvu kuchokera kumtunda ndikupanga mantra yomwe idatipangitsa kulowa m'madzi omwe adatsogolera mathithiwa kuti tikhale ndi mwayi wobwerera movuta mtsinjewo.
Kuti timalize ulendo wathu ku San Marcos, timapita komwe kasupe wake amabadwira. Ulendo waufupi wochokera kuderalo umadutsa pabedi la mtsinje wokhala ndi nkhono za mitsinje zotchedwa puy, zomwe anthu amakonda kuphika ndi masamba. Kutetezedwa ndi nyumba zazikuluzikulu zomwe zimapereka chinyezi, chokongoletsedwa ndi maluwa monga ma orchid, bromeliads, ndi zomera zina zomwe zimawonetsa mizu yayitali kwambiri yamlengalenga yomwe imachokera kumtunda mpaka pansi, tifika pamalo pomwe akasupe amadzi. Pomwepo pali mtengo wawutali kwambiri womwe tidawona, choleba chachikulu cha pafupifupi mita 45, chomwe sichimangolemekeza kulemera kwake kwakukulu, komanso minga yosongoka pamtengo wake.
Joltulijá, chiyambi
Joltulijá (mutu wa mtsinje wa akalulu) ndipamene gwero la moyo lomwe limasunga zofunikira za anthu aku Tzeltal omwe timawayendera amabadwira: mtsinje wa Tulijá. Ili pafupifupi makilomita 12 kumwera kwa Crucero Piñal, ndipo monga San Marcos, ndi tawuni yaying'ono yomwe yakwanitsa kusunga bwino. Malo ake apakati amakongoletsedwa ndi zipilala zitatu zachilengedwe, mitengo ina ya ceiba yomwe imapereka mthunzi wawo wozizira kwa alendo.
Kuti mukhale ndi mwayi wofika pagulu, ndikofunikira kupita kwa akuluakulu, tatiketik wamkulu, kukapempha chilolezo. Mothandizidwa ndi Andrés, yemwe ankagwira ntchito yomasulira popeza anthu samalankhula Chisipanishi pang'ono, tinapita ndi a Tatik Manuel Gómez, m'modzi mwa omwe adatipatsa chilolezo, adatiitanira kuti timuperekeze pamene akugwira ndikutiuza za mwambowu ku kuti adamugwira ndi akulu akulu kuti apange posho (mowa wa nzimbe), kulandira ngati chilango chotsalira chomangika tsiku lonse pamwamba pamtengo.
Kuchokera pakatikati pa mudziwo, komwe mtsinjewo umabadwira uli pamtunda wa pafupifupi kilomita, kuwoloka minda ingapo ya chimanga ndi ziwembu m'minda yachonde ya m'mphepete mwa nyanja. Mwadzidzidzi ziwembu zatha pafupi ndi phirilo chifukwa ndizoletsedwa kudula phirilo ndikusambira m'malo omwe madzi amayenda. Chifukwa chake pakati pa mitengo, miyala ndi chete, phirilo limatsegula kamwa yake yaying'ono kuti madzi azitha kutuluka mkati mwake. Ndizodabwitsa kuwona kuti kutseguka kotereku kumatulutsa mtsinje waukulu chotero. Pamwamba pakamwa pali kachisi wokhala ndi mtanda pomwe anthu amachita miyambo yawo, kupereka zamatsenga ndi zachipembedzo kumalo odzichepetsa chonchi.
Masitepe ochepa chabe kuchokera komweko, madera akumidzi amatseguka pagombe lamtsinje. Madambo awa okutidwa ndi zomera zam'madzi zomwe zimakongoletsa pansi ndi m'mphepete mwawo, ali ndi chithumwa chomwe sichipezeka kutsika. Madziwo ndi omveka bwino lomwe limakupatsani mwayi kuti muwone pansi kuchokera kumbali iliyonse yomwe mumayang'ana mosasamala kanthu za kuya kwake. Mtundu wa mtsinjewu wamtambo wabuluu ndi wocheperako, koma umasakanikirana ndi mitundu yonse yazithunzi zaubweya wofanana ndi zomera ndi miyala yapansi.
Potero timaliza kuwona kwathu dera lokongola la Tzeltal mumtsinje wa Tulijá, komwe mzimu wamtima ndi chilengedwe umakanabe nthawi, ngati nyimbo yamuyaya yamadzi ndi masamba osatha a mitengo.
Achi Teltelt
Ndiwo anthu omwe adakana zaka mazana ambiri, kusunga chilankhulo ndi chikhalidwe chawo kukhala chamoyo, mwamphamvu nthawi zonse ndikusintha, akulimbana pakati pa miyambo yomwe adalandira ndi malonjezo amakono ndi kupita patsogolo. Chiyambi chake chimatibwezeretsanso kuma Mayan akale, ngakhale kuli kotheka kuwona mchilankhulo chawo - chodzaza ndi malingaliro osasunthika pamtima ngati gwero la chikhalidwe ndi nzeru - chikoka chaching'ono cha Nahuatl. "Ndife mbadwa za Mayan," a Marcos, wachiwiri kwa director of San Jerónimo High School adatiuza monyadira, "ngakhale anali ndi chidziwitso chapamwamba, osati monga ife." Potero kukweza masomphenya amenewo a kupembedza kopatsa chiyembekezo komwe ambiri aife tili nako kwa Mayan.
Gwero: Unknown Mexico No. 366 / August 2007
