Mezcal, chakumwa chakale kwambiri kotero kuti tsopano Mexico idabadwa, chadzaza zinsinsi komanso matsenga azikhalidwe zakale zomwe zidakula m'gawo lathu. Kungotchulako kumangotitengera miyambo yamasiku ena.
Akatswiri amatanthauzira kuti mezcalero maguey ngati chomera chokhala ndi masamba akulu, amtundu wokhala ndi mikondo kumapeto. Pakatikati ndipamene chinanazi kapena kupsyinjika kumapangidwa komwe kumagwiritsa ntchito kutulutsa madzi omwe asanduke mezcal.
Mezcaleros amagwiritsa ntchito mawu ovuta; Ichi ndichifukwa chake sizachilendo kumva iwo akunena kuti maguey manso ndi omwe amapangidwa bwino m'maiko a Oaxacan.
Kukula kwa phesi kumayembekezeredwa modekha ndi alimi, chifukwa zimatenga pafupifupi zaka zisanu ndi ziwiri kuti mbewuyo ikhwime.
Ku Oaxaca, komwe miyambo yopanga mezcal wabwino kwambiri ikukula, mawu atatu ndichinsinsi chofikira komwe zakumwa zimayambira: espadin, arroquense ndi tobalá. Ndi iwo, mitundu itatu yamitundumitundu imasankhidwa kuti imathira thovu komanso kutulutsa mitundu yambiri ya mezcal.
Sprat ndi arroquense ndizochokera ku mbewu, pomwe tobalá ndi agave wamtchire.
Njirayi imayamba pomwe mlimi amalekanitsa chinanazi ndi zimayambira, masamba ndi mizu yoyizungulira. Ananaziwo akapezeka, amawaphika kenako amawapula. Zotsatira zake zimasiyidwa kuti zikhazikike m'miphika yayikulu, onunkhira. Kale pano, ndondomekoyi imafuna bata ndi kuleza mtima kudikirira kuti bagasse ipse; panthawiyi madziwo amadutsa pazitsulo.
Ino ndi nthawi yomwe, atazunguliridwa ndi chinsinsi, waluso, mwa asing'anga akale omwe adapanga mankhwala omwe angapereke thanzi kapena moyo wosatha, akupanga njira yake yoperekera mezcal wamtsogolo ndi kununkhira kwake.
Chinsinsi chakale chomwe Oaxaqueños amatisunga mwaulemu, chimatsimikizira kuti kuti tipeze mezcal wa m'mawere, mawere awiri a nkhuku ndi imodzi ya nkhuku ziyenera kuikidwa mkati mwa mbiya, ndi madzi, omwe, akamasenda bwino, amapatsa mezcal kukoma kwabwino. . Opanga ena akumaloko amakonda kuti bere likhale la nkhuku ya capon, ndipo pali ena omwe amawotcha mezcal ndi sinamoni, chinanazi, magawo a nthochi, mitengo ya maapulo ndi shuga woyera. Zonsezi zimapita pansi pa zilembo, ndikupatsa mezcal kusasinthasintha kwapadera komanso kununkhira.
Kuti musangalale ndi meaxcal wabwino wa Oaxacan, ndikofunikira kudziwa kuti munthu ayenera kusiyanitsa zoyera ndi tobalá. Mwa zoyera, nawonso, mitundu yambiri yamitundu imadziwika, yomwe amatchedwa minero imadziwika, chifukwa imapangidwa ku Santa Catarina de Minas ndipo pokonzekera mananasi ochokera ku nkhalango yotchedwa cirial amagwiritsidwanso ntchito.
Pofotokozera za mezcal de tobalá, ndikofunikira kuti izi zichitike mumiphika yadongo.
Otsatira zakumwa izi amatha kusiyanitsa mosavuta ali kutsogolo kwa mezcal ya fakitole, ndipo ngati ndi yomwe idalandiridwa mwanjira zachikhalidwe, ndi opanga zoweta.
Gawo labwino la mezcals pamsika lili ndi nyongolotsi yamphamvu mkati mwawo. Nthawi zambiri, nyongolotsi imawonjezeredwa ku mezcal ikamamangidwa m'mabotolo ndipo akatswiri amati imamupatsa mchere pang'ono. Mwambo uwu wa nyongolotsi watsogolera, kwa zaka zambiri, kuti apange mchere womwe umapezeka ndikuphwanya nyongolotsi zamphamvu.
Omwe amamwa mowa wakale adandiuza kuti mezcal wosungunuka ali ndi zakumwa zonse zabwino.
Koma zonsezi sizingatheke ngati mezcalero maguey sanakule ku Oaxaca, yomwe imayika cholemba chokongola komanso chodziwika bwino pamalopo.
Source: Malangizo a Aeroméxico Nambala 1 Oaxaca / Fall 1996
