Kusintha kuchokera m'zaka zana kupita kumapeto kumawoneka ngati chonamizira chosintha. Kuyamba kwa nyengo yatsopano kumatipatsa mwayi woti tisiye zonse kumbuyo ndi kuyambiranso; Mosakayikira, ndi mphindi ya chiyembekezo.
Kulongosola kwa kusinthika kwa mbiriyakale kumaperekedwa kwa ife kwazaka mazana ambiri ndipo kumawoneka ngati kugawidwa nawo. Lingaliro la kupita patsogolo limapangidwa ndikufanizira nthawi ndipo zaka zana zikuwoneka ngati nthawi yoyenera yophunzira zochitika zingapo motero kutha kumvetsetsa zamakhalidwe athu.
Kuyamba kwa zaka zana zomwe tikutha kapena zatsala pang'ono kutha ndi nthawi yomwe kusintha kuli pafupi ndipo mafashoni, monga nthawi zonse, amawonetsera chikhalidwe chomwe anthu akutengera. Ndalama zambiri zimawonongedwa posangalala ndi zovala. Kulankhula mopitilira muyeso komanso kupyola muyeso kumayendetsedwa ndi kulekerera pazandale ndipo zipani zazikulu zimakhala nthawi yayitali m'magulu onse azikhalidwe.
Pankhani ya mafashoni, zaka makumi awiri ndi nthawi yoyamba yopuma yayikulu ndichikhalidwe chachikazi cha masiketi ataliatali, madiresi osakhazikika ndi ziuno zolimba ndi ma corsets opanda umunthu. Chiwerengero chazimayi "S" chazaka zapitazo sichikugwiritsidwanso ntchito. Ndizokhudza kukhumudwitsa, zakupezeka mdziko lapansi lolamulidwa ndi amuna. Fomu lachikazi limakhala ndi mawonekedwe oyandikana, ndikupatsanso mtundu wanthawi ino, chiuno chotalika, kutalika kwa m'chiuno osayika m'chiuno.
Kupuma sikungokhala kwamafashoni. Amayi amadziwa momwe zinthu zilili mokhudzana ndi abambo ndipo sawakonda, ndipo ndi momwe amayamba kupezeka m'malo omwe sizinawoneke bwino kuti mkazi achite zinthu zomwe amafuna amuna, monga masewera; idakhala yapamwamba kusewera tenisi, gofu, polo, kusambira, ngakhale mapangidwe amisuti yamasewera anali achilendo komanso olimba mtima panthawiyo. Zovala zosambirira zinali madiresi ang'onoang'ono, koma kuchokera pamenepo adayamba kudula nsalu osayimilira mpaka atafika pazovala zazing'ono zam'nyanja zamasiku athu ano. M'malo mwake, zovala zamkati zimasinthanso; ma corsets ovuta amasintha pang'onopang'ono kukhala matupi ndipo kamisolo kosiyanasiyana kamatuluka.
Mkazi amayamba kutuluka panja, kukachita zochitika zina zomwe kuyenda momasuka ndikofunikira; kutalika kwa masiketi ndi madiresi pang'onopang'ono adafupikitsidwa kumakolo, ndipo mu 1925 siketi yomwe inali kutalika kwa mawondo idayambitsidwa pamiyendo. Mkwiyo wa gulu la amuna umafika patali kotero kuti Bishopu Wamkulu waku Naples angayerekeze kunena kuti chivomerezi ku Amalfi chinali chisonyezero cha mkwiyo wa Mulungu polandira masiketi achidule muzovala zachikazi. Nkhani ya United States ndiyofanana; ku Utah kunaperekedwa lamulo lomwe lingalipire bwino ndikumanga azimayi chifukwa chovala masiketi opitilira mainchesi atatu pamwendo; ku Ohio, siketi kutalika kwake kunali kotsika, sikunakwere kupitirira pomwepo. Zachidziwikire, mabilo onsewa sanalandiridwe konse, koma amunawa, powopsezedwa, adamenya nkhondo ndi zida zawo zonse kuti apewe kuwukira kwa azimayiwa. Ngakhale ma garters omwe amayimitsa masitonkeni, omwe angotulukiridwa kumene ndi kutalika kwatsopano kwa siketi, adakhala chowonjezera chatsopano; analipo ndi miyala yamtengo wapatali ndipo amawononga ndalama zokwana madola 30,000 panthawiyo.
M'mayiko omwe akhudzidwa ndi nkhondoyi kupezeka kwa akazi m'misewu kunali kofananako, koma zifukwa zake zinali zosiyana. Ngakhale m'maiko ambiri kufunika kosintha kunali kokomera anthu, ogonja amayenera kukumana ndi chiwonongeko. Zinali zofunikira kumanganso kuchokera nyumba ndi misewu mpaka moyo wa nzika zake. Njira yokhayo ndikutuluka ndikukachita, azimayiwo adasintha ndikusintha zovala kukhala chosowa.
Mtundu womwe nthawi ino ingatanthauzidwe ndikuwoneka ngati wopusa momwe ungathere. Pamodzi ndi mawonekedwe ozungulira pomwe panali zokhotakhota zachikazi - nthawi zina amatha kumangiriza mabere awo kuti ayesere kubisala - anali kumeta tsitsi. Kwa nthawi yoyamba mzimayi amasiya tsitsi lake lalitali komanso makongoletsedwe ovuta; Kenako kukongoletsa kwatsopano kumachitika. Kudulidwa, kotchedwa garçonne (mtsikana, mu Chifalansa) limodzi ndi zovala zachimuna kwathunthu kumawathandiza kupanga malingaliro oyenera potengera zanzeru. Pamodzi ndi kumeta tsitsi, zipewa zimapangidwa molingana ndi chithunzi chatsopano. Mtundu wama cloche udatenga mawonekedwe kutsatira mzere wamutu; enanso anali ndi mulomo wawung'ono, choncho zinali zosatheka kuwavala ndi tsitsi lalitali. Chodziwikiratu chokhudza kuvala chipewacho chinali chakuti mlomo wawung'ono unaphimba gawo lina la maso awo, kotero amayenera kuyenda mutu wawo utakwezedwa; Izi zikusonyeza chithunzi choyimira kwambiri chamakhalidwe atsopano azimayi.
Ku France, Madeleine Vionet amatenga tsitsi lawo "posakondera" chipewa, chomwe chimayamba kukopa zolengedwa zake, zomwe zidzatsatiridwa ndi ena onse opanga.
Amayi ena opandukira sanasankhe kumeta tsitsi lawo, koma amalilemba m'njira yomwe imafotokozera kalembedwe katsopano. Sizinali zophweka kusiyanitsa mkazi ndi mwana wasukulu, kupatula lipstick yofiira yofiira komanso mithunzi yowala pazotsekerazo. Zodzoladzola zinachulukirachulukira, ndimizere yodziwika bwino. Pakamwa pa 1920s ndi yopyapyala komanso yopangidwa ndi mtima, zomwe zidakwaniritsidwa chifukwa chazinthu zatsopano. Mzere woonda wa nsidze umakhalanso ndi mawonekedwe, kutsindika, mwanjira iliyonse, kuphweka kwa mafomu, onse m'mapangidwe ndi masitaelo amapangidwe omwe amatsutsana ndi mawonekedwe ovuta akale.
Zosowa za nthawi yatsopano zidapangitsa kuti pakhale zida zomwe zimapangitsa ukazi kukhala wogwira ntchito, monga zikwama za ndudu ndi mabokosi onunkhira ooneka ngati mphete. "Kuti mukhale nayo nthawi zonse ngati mukufuna, mutha kusungira mafuta onunkhira omwe mumakonda m'miphete yopangidwa mwanjira imeneyi, komanso yomwe ili ndi botolo laling'ono mkati." Umu ndi momwe magazini a El Hogar (Buenos Aires, Epulo 1926) amaperekera izi zatsopano. Chalk china chofunikira chimaphatikizapo mikanda yayitali ya ngale, matumba ophatikizika ndipo, motsogozedwa ndi Coco Channel, zodzikongoletsera zomwe zakhala zotsogola koyamba.
Kutopa kwamitundu yambiri kumapangitsa mafashoni kuwoneka osavuta komanso othandiza. Kuyera kwa mawonekedwe motsutsana ndi zakale, kufunika kosintha kuchokera kuphedwa kwa nkhondo yoyamba yayikulu, kudapangitsa azimayi kuzindikira kuti akuyenera kukhala ndi moyo pakadali pano, chifukwa tsogolo likhoza kukhala losatsimikizika. Ndi Nkhondo Yachiwiri Yapadziko Lonse komanso kuwonekera kwa bomba la atomiki, lingaliro ili "lokhala ndi moyo tsiku ndi tsiku" likadakulirakulira.
Munjira ina, ndikofunikira kunena kuti nyumba zopanga, monga "Doucet", "Doeuillet ndi Drécoll, omwe adapanga mbiri ya belle epoque, posakhoza kuyankha zofuna zatsopano za anthu, kapena mwina Kutsutsa kusintha, adatseka zitseko zawo ndikupereka mwayi kwa opanga zatsopano monga Madame Schiaparelli, Coco Channel, Madame Paquin, Madeleine Vione, pakati pa ena. Okonza anali pafupi kwambiri ndikusintha kwanzeru; zaluso za avant-gardes koyambirira kwa zaka za zana ndizodziwika bwino, mafundewa adatsutsana ndi sukuluyi, ndichifukwa chake anali owopsa kwambiri.
Zojambula zodzikongoletsa ndi moyo watsiku ndi tsiku chifukwa zidazigwiritsa ntchito popanga. Okonza atsopanowa adalumikizidwa bwino ndi izi. Mwachitsanzo, Schiaparelli, anali m'gulu la Opitilira muyeso ndipo amakhala monga iwo. Olemba mafashoni amati popeza anali wonyansa kwambiri, ankadya mbewu zamaluwa kuti kukongola kubadwire mwa iye, mawonekedwe omwe anali ofananako nthawi yake. Anamunamizira mobwerezabwereza kuti "amatengera Apache kupita nawo ku Ritz" chifukwa chophatikizira opanga zovala zapamwamba. Munthu wina wotchuka, Coco Channel, adasamukira pagulu lanzeru, ndipo anali ndi abwenzi apamtima a Dalí, Cocteau, Picasso, ndi Stravinsky. Nkhani zaluntha zomwe zidafalikira monsemo komanso mafashoni sizinali zosiyana.
Kufalitsa mafashoni kunachitika ndi zofalitsa ziwiri zofunika, makalata ndi kanema. Mitundu yatsopanoyi idasindikizidwa m'makalata ndikutumiza kumidzi yakutali kwambiri. Makamu akuda nkhawa akuyembekezera magazini yomwe mzindawu wabweretsa kunyumba, ngati kuti ndi matsenga. Amatha kukhala onse mu mafashoni ndikupeza nawo. Wina, wowoneka bwino kwambiri anali kanema, pomwe anthu otchuka anali mitundu, yomwe inali njira yabwino kwambiri yotsatsira, popeza anthu amadziwika ndi ochita zisudzo motero amayesetsa kuwatsanzira. Umu ndi momwe zimakhalira ndi Greta Garbo wotchuka yemwe adakhala nyengo yonse mu kanema.
Amayi aku Mexico koyambirira kwa zaka khumi zachiwiri za 20th century adadziwika chifukwa chotsatira miyambo ndi malamulo operekedwa ndi akulu awo; Komabe, sakanatha kutuluka pakusintha kwachikhalidwe ndi chikhalidwe komwe kunabwera ndi gulu losintha. Moyo wakumidzi udasinthidwa kukhala wamatawuni ndipo achikominisi oyamba adayamba kuwonekera kudziko lonse. Amayi, makamaka odziwa zambiri komanso olemera, adachita chidwi ndi mafashoni atsopanowa, omwe kwa iwo anali ofanana ndi ufulu. Frida Kahlo, Tina Modotti ndi Antonieta Rivas Mercado ali pamwamba pa atsikana ambiri omwe, pazochitika zawo zosiyanasiyana, adalimbana mosalekeza polimbana ndi machitidwe wamba. Pankhani ya mafashoni, Kahlo adanenanso za akatswiri azomanga, otsimikiza kupulumutsa Mexico weniweni; Ndi kutchuka kwa wojambulayo, azimayi ambiri adayamba kuvala zovala zachikhalidwe, kupesa tsitsi lawo ndi zoluka zamitundu ndi zingwe, ndikupeza zodzikongoletsera zasiliva ndi zomata zaku Mexico.
Ponena za Antonieta Rivas Mercado, wa gulu lochita bwino komanso wopanga mitundu yonse, kuyambira ali mwana kwambiri adawonetsa kukhala ndi mzimu wopanduka wotsutsana ndi tsankho. Ali ndi zaka 10, mu 1910, adameta tsitsi lake ngati kalembedwe ka Joan of Arc ndipo ali ndi zaka 20 “adatengera mafashoni a Chanel ngati amene amakhala ndi chizolowezi chofananira ndi kukhudzika kwamkati. Amakongoletsa modabwitsa izi, zokongola, zophunzirira komanso zosazindikirika, zomwe wakhala akufuna. Iye, yemwe sanali mzimayi wokhala ndi mafashoni otsogola, adavala bwino madiresi owongoka omwe adayiwala mawere ndi chiuno, ndikumasula thupi ndi nsalu za juzi zomwe zidagwa popanda zonyoza.
Black nayenso anakhala mtundu wake wokondedwa. Komanso panthawiyo, tsitsi la garçonne lidakakamizidwa, makamaka lakuda ndikuthiridwa ndi Valentino ”(Yotengedwa kuchokera ku Antonieta, wolemba Fabienne Bradu)
Mafashoni azaka za m'ma 1920, ngakhale zikuwoneka ngati zachiphamaso, ndi chizindikiro cha kupanduka. Kukhala mu mafashoni kumawerengedwa kuti ndikofunikira, chifukwa anali malingaliro achikazi pagulu. M'zaka za zana la makumi awiri ndi ziwiri kudasinthidwa mwamphamvu ndipo ma 1920 anali chiyambi cha kusintha.
Gwero: Mexico mu Time No. 35 Marichi / Epulo 2000
