Azungu omwe adayenda panyanja koyamba m'madzi a Nyanja ya Bermejo adachita chidwi ndi mawonekedwe omwe adakumana nawo panjira yawo; ndikomveka kuti amaganiza ngati chilumba chomwe kwenikweni chinali chilumba.
Amayendetsa zombo zawo ndikuwona tawuni tating'ono tomwe sikanthu koma magombe amphepete ndi mapiri omwe adatuluka zaka mamiliyoni angapo zapitazo kuphompho mpaka atadutsa nyanja ndikumapeza kuwala kwa dzuwa. Sikovuta kulingalira, m'masiku amenewo, kulumikizana kwa dolphin kukondwerera kubwera kwa omwe abwera ndi mabanja a anamgumi odabwitsidwa akuyang'ana alendowo.
Azungu omwe adayenda panyanja koyamba m'madzi a Nyanja ya Bermejo adachita chidwi ndi mawonekedwe omwe adakumana nawo atabwerako; ndikomveka kuti amaganiza ngati chilumba chomwe kwenikweni chinali chilumba. Iwo amayendetsa zombo zawo ndikuwona tawuni tating'ono tomwe sikanthu koma magombe a mapiri ndi mafunde omwe adatuluka zaka mamiliyoni ambiri zapitazo kuphanga mpaka atadutsa nyanja ndikumapeza kuwala kwa dzuwa. Sizovuta kulingalira, m'masiku amenewo, kulumpha kwa dolphin kukondwerera kubwera kwa omwe abwera ndi mabanja a anamgumi odabwitsidwa akuyang'ana alendowo.
Zilumbazi, zokhala ndi anthu okhala mlengalenga, m'madzi komanso mdziko lapansi, zidawonekera pamaso paomwe akuyenda, otsogola komanso okhaokha pagombe lakumwera kwa chilumbachi chovekedwa ndi Sierra de La Giganta.
Mwinanso anali mwayi kapena kusuntha kwa gudumu komwe kumawatsogolera amuna aulemu omwe anali kufunafuna njira ina yopita pakamwa pa phompho; M'kupita kwa nthawi, ulendowu unapitilira, maulendowa adatsatizana, kontinenti yatsopanoyi idawonekera pamapu ndipo pa iwo "chilumba" cha California limodzi ndi azichemwali awo ang'onoang'ono.
Mu 1539, ulendowu wothandizidwa ndi Hernán Cortés komanso motsogozedwa ndi a Francisco de Ulloa udafika wokonzeka bwino lomwe kutsidya la Mtsinje wa Colorado. Izi zidatsogolera, patatha zaka zana, kusintha kwa mapu padziko lapansi panthawiyo: idalidi peninsula osati nthawiyo: idalidi peninsula osati gawo lazilumba, monga momwe adaganizira kale.
Mabanki amtengo wapatali omwe anapezeka pafupi ndi doko la Santa Cruz, lero ku La Paz, ndipo mwina kukokomeza, komwe kumadziwika kuti mbiri yakale yolembedwa panthawi yolanda kunabweretsa chidwi cha akatswiri atsopano.
Kulamulidwa ndi Sonora ndi Sinaloa pakati pa zaka za zana lachisanu ndi chiwiri ndi kukhazikitsidwa kwa ntchito ya Loreto ku 1697 kumwera kwa chilumbachi kunayamba zaka mazana ambiri.
Osangokhala chilengedwe chachilengedwe chomwe chinawonongedwa ndi atsopanowa, komanso a Pericúes ndi a Cochimíes, okhala modzidzimutsa, adaphedwa ndi matenda; mmenemo, a Yaquis ndi a Seris adachepetsedwa kufikira madera omwe adasamukira momasuka.
Koma mu theka lachiwiri la zaka za zana la 19 ndi theka loyamba la 20, ukadaulo umachulukitsa mphamvu za munthu: kusodza, ulimi waukulu komanso migodi idapangidwa. Kuyenda kwa mitsinje monga Colorado, Yaqui, Mayo ndi Fuerte, pakati pa ena, kudasiya kuyamwitsa madzi am'derali kenako nyama ndi zomerazo, zomwe zimachita nawo chakudya chovuta nthawi zina zosavomerezeka, zimakana zotsatirazi.
Kodi zidachitika bwanji kuzilumba zakumwera kwa Nyanja ya Cortez? Anakhudzidwanso. Guano lomwe linasungidwa ndi mbalame zaka masauzande ambiri lidatengedwa kupita kumayiko ena kuti likhale feteleza; migodi yagolide ndi malo ogulitsira mchere anali kugwiritsidwa ntchito, zomwe popita nthawi zinawonetsa zopanda phindu; mitundu yambiri yam'madzi monga vaquita idapita pakati pa maukonde; zilumbazi zidasiyidwa ndizowonongeka mwina zosasinthika komanso okhala ndi oyandikana ochepa kunyanja.
Monga alonda omwe adatsegulidwa pamalo okongola, zilumbazi zidawona kwa zaka zambiri kudutsa sitima zapamadzi, zomwe mzaka zapitazi zidayenda kuchokera ku San Francisco, California, ndikulowa ku United States atadutsa pamtsinje wa Colorado; anakhalabe osasunthika pamaso pa mabwato osodza ndi maukonde awo; adawona tsiku ndi tsiku kutha kwa mitundu yambiri ya zamoyo.
Koma adalipo pomwepo ndipo okhalapo awo akale ndi ouma khosi omwe samatsutsa kokha kupita kwa nthawi komanso kusintha kwanyengo padziko lapansi, koposa zonse, kuchitapo kanthu mopitilira muyeso kwa iwo omwe akadakhala anzawo nthawi zonse: amuna.
Kodi timapeza chiyani tikayenda ulendo wapanyanja kuchokera ku Puerto Escondido, m'chigawo cha Loreto, kupita padoko la La Paz, pafupifupi kumapeto kwa chilumbacho? Zomwe zimawoneka patsogolo pathu ndi zochitika zapadera, zomwe zimachitikadi. Kukongola kwachilengedwe kwa nyanja komwe kudulidwa ndi mbiri ya m'mphepete mwa nyanja komanso mawonekedwe osavomerezeka azilumbazi akuwonjezeredwa maulendo a dolphin, anamgumi, mbalame zosalimba komanso kuwuluka kovuta, komanso nkhandwe kufunafuna chakudya. Phokoso lomwe mikango yam'nyanja imatulutsa likuyenda, pamene akulumikizana wina ndi mzake kunyezimira padzuwa ndikusamba ndi madzi omwe amathyola miyala.
Omwe akuyang'anitsitsa adzayamikira mawonekedwe azilumba pamapu ndi m'mphepete mwawo pamtunda; magombe owoneka bwino ndi doko, olingana ndi ma Caribbean okha; zojambula pamiyala zomwe zimaulula zaka zapadziko lapansi.
Akatswiri azomera ndi nyama zopezeka paliponse adzawona cactus, pamenepo chokwawa, mamilaria, kalulu wakuda, mwachidule: biznagas, swallows, iguana, abuluzi, njoka, rattlesnakes, mbewa, zitsamba zam'madzi, nkhandwe, nkhanga ndi zina zambiri.
Osiyanasiyana azisangalala ndi malo okongola kwambiri apansi pamadzi ndi mitundu yapadera, kuyambira squid chimphona mpaka kuphulika kwachilengedwe kwa starfish; asodzi amasewera apeza nsomba zam'madzi ndi marlin; ndi ojambula, kutha kujambula zithunzi zabwino kwambiri. Malowa ndi abwino kwa iwo omwe amafuna kukhala patokha kapena kwa iwo omwe akufuna kugawana ndi okondedwa awo chidziwitso chodziwa nyanja yomwe, ngakhale idawonongeka, zikuwoneka kuti palibe amene adakhudzapo.
Zilumba za Coronado, El Carmen, Danzante, Monserrat, Santa Catalina, Santa Cruz, San José, San Francisco, Partida, Espíritu Santo ndi Cerralvo ndi gulu la nyenyezi zomwe ziyenera kusungidwa kuti zithandizire chilengedwe komanso mwayi wamaso.
Zonsezi zili ndi zokopa zapadera: palibe amene angaiwale gombe pachilumba cha Monserrat; kupezeka kwakukulu kwa Danzante; doko lalikulu ku San Francisco; malo olandirako mafunde komanso minda yamchere ku San José; galasi ladzuwa pachilumba cha El Carmen, malo oberekera nkhosa zazikulu; chithunzi chodziwikiratu cha Los Candeleros ndi chiwonetsero chodabwitsa pazilumba za Partida kapena Espíritu Santo, ngakhale mafunde akukwera kapena kutsika, komanso kulowa kwa dzuwa kokongola komwe kumangowoneka mu Nyanja ya Cortez.
Chilichonse chomwe chinganenedwe ndikuchitidwa kuti tisunge gawo lino la gawo lathu ndizochepa. Tiyenera kukhala otsimikiza kuti tsogolo la zilumba zomwe zili kumwera kwa Nyanja ya Cortez zimatengera kuzindikira kuti malowa ndi malo owonera zachilengedwe omwe mlendo aliyense angayang'ane bola ngati sizingakhudze malo ake okongola.
FARALLÓN YA ISLA PARTIDA: NYANJA YOSANGALATSA
Phiri la Partida Island ndi malo othawirako nyama zakutchire: lili ndi mbalame zam'madzi zosiyanasiyana.
Mbalame za Booby zimabisala m'mapanga a ziphompho, ndipo zimawoneka zikudyera mazira awo, amuna ndi akazi akusinthana pakufunafuna chakudya. Ndizosangalatsa kuwawona ali phee, ndi miyendo yawo yabuluu, nthenga zawo zofiirira ngati thumba ndi mutu wawo woyera ndi mawu oti "Sindinapite." Mbalamezi zimakhala zochuluka ndipo nthawi zambiri zimaima m'mphepete mwa phompho, ndikuyang'ana kunyanja posaka nsomba; Malo ena omwe amakonda kwambiri ndi pamwamba pa cacti yomwe, kuchokera m'zakumwa zambiri, imawoneka ngati chipale chofewa. Mbalame za Frigate zimauluka pamwamba, ndi mawonekedwe ake a mapiko ataliatali, ofanana ndi mileme. Ma Pelicans amakonda miyala yomwe ili m'mbali mwa nyanja ndipo amapita ku dipi kukaviika akusaka chakudya. Palinso ma cormorant komanso magpies angapo, mwina malo obisalamo oyenda oyendera.
Chokopa chachikulu champhompho ndi magulu a mikango yam'nyanja.
Chakumapeto, akatswiri a sayansi ya zamoyo ochokera ku yunivesite ya Baja California Sur amapanga kalembera kuti alembe kuchuluka kwa anthu.
Mimbulu yambiri imangobwera kuno kudzakwatirana ndikukhala ndi ana awo; njuchi zimakhazikitsidwa makamaka m'ng'ombe zam'mimbulu, ngakhale zitsanzo zazing'ono kwambiri zimakhala mwala uliwonse womwe ungakwere, pansi pamapiri. Amayambitsa chisokonezo chachikulu ndi zibwenzi zawo ndi milandu; ruckus imatha tsiku lonse.
Pa nthawi yokhwima, amuna amadutsa madera awo, omwe amawateteza mwachangu; pamenepo amakhala ndi akazi azimayi osiyanasiyana.
Ndi dziko lokhalo lomwe limatsutsana, chifukwa nyanja imawerengedwa kuti ndi gawo limodzi. Kulimbana pakati pa amuna odziwika kumachitika pafupipafupi, ndipo palibe chosowa chachikazi chomwe, chomwe chimakopeka ndi wolimba mtima wina, chimathawira kwawo. Amphongo amphamvu kwambiri ndi osangalatsa, makamaka akakwiyidwa ndikufuula mokweza kuti awopseze aliyense amene angayerekeze kulowa mdera lawo. Ngakhale amawoneka achabechabe komanso aulesi, amatha kuyenda maulendo othamanga opitilira 15 km paola pakuwopseza mdani.
Pansi pa nyanja pali dziko losiyana, koma lokongola.
Masukulu akuluakulu a sardines amasambira osaya; matupi awo ang'onoang'ono opangidwa ndi ulusi amawunika siliva. Palinso nsomba zamitundu yambiri komanso ma eel ena okayikitsa, okhala ndi mawonekedwe owopsa. Nthawi zina mumawona ma stingray omwe "amauluka" mwakachetechete mpaka atasokera mwakuya kwa nyanja, kutisiyira chidwi chokhala ndi maloto achilendo poyenda pang'onopang'ono.
Gwero: Mexico Yosadziwika No. 251 / Januware 1998
