Amati pulque yochokera ku Apan, m'zaka za m'ma 1920, inali kale mwambo. Sitimayo imafika m'mawa uliwonse ku Mexico City ndi pulque yatsopano yomwe imaperekedwa pagome labwino kwambiri la anthu achi Porfirian, monga kumidzi, azimayi akamanyamula "itacate", nthawi zonse limodzi ndi mtsuko wawung'ono wa chakumwa chosangalatsa ichi .
Kuyesera kuti ndidziwe komwe zakumwa izi zimachokera, ndikupita pamtima pakapangidwe kake: Apan. Chomwe ndidadabwitsidwa ndichakuti, zotsalira za madera akuluakulu amderali zakhala chete ndikukhala osagwira ntchito kwazaka zambiri. Minda yayikulu yamphamvu yasowa ndipo mbewu zabwinozi zimangogwiritsidwa ntchito popititsa patsogolo minda ya barele yomwe yalowa m'malo mwake. Pulque imangopangidwa pang'onopang'ono kuti mugwiritse ntchito kwanuko!
Ndikufunsa kuzungulira uku ndikuthamangira kwa Valentín Rosas, yemwe kale anali tlachiquero, wochezeka komanso woseketsa, amene aganiza zondiperekeza ndikukhala wonditsogolera. Pokhumudwitsidwa ndi zomwe ndapeza ku Apan, ndikupita ku tawuni ya Santa Rosa, komwe Doña Gabriela Vázquez akutilimbikitsa kuti tifunefune Don Pazcasio Gutiérrez: "Munthu ameneyo akudziwa!" -Amatifotokozera.
Titafika kunyumba kwa a Mr. Gutiérrez, amatitsogolera kupita ku thanki yamadzi ndipo kuchokera mdima wake ndikupezeka kwa munthu wamphamvu wazaka makumi asanu ndi awiri. Ndapereka ndemanga ndikutsimikiza cholinga changa chodziwa "kukhala" chilichonse chokhudzana ndi pulque. Popanda kuchitapo kanthu, avomera kutithandiza ndipo akuti tiwonana ndi "Tionana mawa! Dzuwa likatuluka, timapita kumapiri! " Mawu ake amandiuza kuti chinthu chopukutira ichi si nkhani yothamangira.
Tsiku lotsatira, cha m'ma 8 koloko m'mawa, tinanyamuka ulendo wopita kumapiriwo modekha kwambiri. "Ngati palibe changu, pulque imandidikirira kumeneko!" -Anandiuza ndikafuna kuthamangitsa "Avocado", bulu wake wabwino.
Don Pazcasio anati: “Ndili mwana Apan anali chinthu china. Magueys adadzaza dziko lonselo. Ambiri a iwo ankagwira ntchito m'minda ikuluikulu. Kawiri patsiku ma tlachiqueros ankadula ndikutulutsa mamewo ndi ma acocotes (guajes) ndikunyamula ma chestnuts athunthu kuma tinacales omwe amatha pafupifupi malita 1,000.
“Gawo lofunikira pantchitoyi - akupitiliza Don Pazcasio - ndikuwonjezera mbewu (xnaxtli) kapena pulque yakupsa yomwe nayonso mphamvu imayambira. Pakokha, ntchito yopanga pulque ndiyosavuta koma imadzaza ndi zamatsenga. Tinacal idawonedwa ngati yopatulika, ndipo pachiyambi, mapemphero anali kuperekedwa. Simungathe kuvala chipewa, alendo kapena amayi samaloledwa, ndipo simuyenera kunena mawu oyipa, chifukwa zonsezi zitha kuwononga pulque ”.
Pomaliza tidapeza maguey pomwe adatenga mead kuti tilawe. Ndazipeza zokoma! Don Pazcasio adandifotokozera kuti pulque imapezeka pakuthira kwa mead, pomwe mezcal ndi tequila zimachokera ku distillation ya mead yomweyo.
"Kuyambira zaka zisanu ndi ziwiri mpaka khumi, maguey amafika pokhwima, ndipo kuchokera pakatikati, ngati atitchoku wamkulu yemwe amayamba kutupa, tsinde lalikulu lokhala ndi duwa limodzi limayamba kukula - Don Pazcasio akupitilizabe kutilemba. Asanamasulidwe, chomeracho chimadulidwa ndi kudula tsinde lomwe limaulula 'chinanazi' pomwe potsegulira masentimita pafupifupi makumi atatu kapena makumi asanu kuti atulutse mead. Chomera chilichonse chimatha kutulutsa pakati pa malita asanu ndi asanu ndi limodzi patsiku. Madziwo amayenera kutoleredwa kawiri patsiku kuti asatenthedwe, komanso kuti ateteze chomeracho ku tizilombo ndi dothi, masamba ena amapindidwa pakhomopo, ndikuwaluka ndi minga. Pambuyo pa miyezi inayi kapena isanu ndi umodzi chomeracho, chomwe chatulutsa kale malita ambiri a mead, chimatha ndipo chimauma.
“Pulque ndi wamkaka, wofewa pang'ono komanso wowawasa ndipo umakhala ndi mowa wambiri kuposa mowa, koma osamwa vinyo. Popeza ili ndi mavitamini, michere yambiri ndi ma amino acid, akuti ndi kalasi imodzi yokha yoperewera msuzi wa nkhuku! Zipatso zoswedwa zimawonjezeredwa mu pulque 'yochiritsidwa', yomwe imathandizira kwambiri kununkhira kwake ndikupangitsa kuti ikhale yopatsa thanzi. "
Pali maumboni angapo am'mbuyomu zakumwa kwa chakumwa ichi, mwa ena mwa ma hieroglyphs a Mayan ndi nyumba yozungulira mu Pyramid Wamkulu wa Cholula, ku Puebla, pomwe gulu la omwe amamwa pulque osangalala. Chowonadi ndichakuti pafupifupi zikhalidwe zonse ku Mexico zidagwiritsa ntchito ndipo ena adazigwiritsa ntchito pafupifupi zaka zikwi ziwiri. Ena amakhulupirira kuti mulungu wamkazi Mayahuel adalowa mumtima mwa maguey ndikulola magazi ake kuti atuluke pamodzi ndi timadzi ta chomeracho. Ena amanena kuti Papantzin, mfumukazi ya ku Toltec, adapeza m'mene angatengere mead ndipo adatumiza mwana wake wamkazi Xóchitl ndi chopereka cha zakumwa izi kwa Mfumu Tecpancaltzin, yemwe adakopeka ndi zakumwa zakumwa, mpaka adamkwatira. Ena ati amene adapeza pulque ndikusanduka chidakwa choyamba anali opossum!
Pulque anali ataledzera ndi olemekezeka ndi ansembe kuti azikondwerera kupambana kwakukulu kapena patchuthi chapadera chachipembedzo. Kumwa kwake kumangolembedwa kwa okalamba okha, amayi oyamwitsa, olamulira ndi ansembe, pomwe anthu amangokondwerera.
Pambuyo pogonjetsako, kunalibenso malamulo omwe amayang'anira kugwiritsa ntchito pulque, ndipo zidafika mpaka 1672 pomwe boma la viceroyalty lidayamba kuwongolera.
Kuyambira m'ma 1920, boma linayesetsa kuthana ndi pulque. Munthawi ya purezidenti wa Lázaro Cárdenas panali ntchito zotsutsana ndi uchidakwa zomwe zimayesetsa kupondereza kwathunthu.
"Lero lino sinalinso nthabwala," akumaliza motero Don Pazcasio. Ma chestnuts ndi ma acocotes tsopano apangidwa ndi fiberglass, ndipo pali ena omwe akufuna kutumiza pulque yamzitini! Ku mayiko ogwirizana. Amati amawutcha kuti 'Apan timadzi tokoma', koma chowonadi ndichakuti umakoma ngati chilichonse, kupatula pulque! Nthawi zina alendo amafuna kuyesa, koma zimakhala zovuta kuti apeze mtundu wabwino. Makampani opanga pulque akumwalira! Ndikulakalaka boma likanachita china chake kuti pulque, chakumwa chamtundu wotere, chibwezeretse kutchuka kwake ndikukhala ndi mbiri yomwe tequila ili nayo padziko lonse lapansi. Maguey ali ngati muzu wa dziko lathu ndi pulque magazi ake, magazi omwe akuyenera kupitiliza kutisamalira. "
