Wapadera, wamba, wokoma, wotentha, wokhala ndi mchere, toast, mu taco, al pastor, ku quesadilla, chilaquil, sope, mu supu, ndi dzanja, comal, buluu, woyera, wachikasu, wonenepa, woonda, wocheperako, wamkulu, la Tortilla waku Mexico ndiye chizindikiro ndi chikhalidwe chakale kwambiri pachikhalidwe chophikira mdziko lathu.
Wokondedwa ndi anthu aku Mexico mosasamala kanthu kuti ndi amtundu wanji, tortilla imadyedwa tsiku lililonse ngati mkate wathu, patokha kapena m'njira zambiri komanso zochuluka zoperekera; Pogwiritsa ntchito mitundu ndi zonunkhira za zakudya zachilendo ku Mexico, tortilla ndi, ndi kuphweka kwake kosavuta, protagonist ya mbale, komanso tequila ndi chili, chizindikiro chophikira chomwe chikuyimira Mexico.
Koma tortilla idabadwa liti, ndipo idabadwira kuti? Chiyambi chake ndichakale kwambiri kotero kuti chiyambi chake sichikudziwika bwinobwino. Komabe, tikudziwa kuti mbiri yakale ya ku Puerto Rico isanakwane ndi chimanga ndipo m'nthano zina ndi nthano zambiri timapezamo malembedwe osiyanasiyana pankhaniyi.
M'chigawo cha Chalco akuti milunguyo idatsika kuchokera kumwamba kupita kuphanga, komwe Piltzintecutli adagona ndi Xochiquétzal; kuchokera ku mgwirizanowu kunabadwa Tzentéotl, mulungu wa chimanga, yemwe adabwera pansi pa dziko lapansi ndikupatsanso mbewu zina; tsitsi lake linabwera ndi thonje, ndi zala zake mbatata ndipo kuchokera ku misomali yake mtundu wina wa chimanga. Pazifukwa izi, adati mulungu ndiye wokondedwa kwambiri kuposa onse ndipo amamutcha "mbuye wokondedwa."
Njira ina yofikira poyambira ndikuwunika ubale wake ndi Tlaxcala, yemwe dzina lake limatanthauza "malo amtchire."
Sizangochitika mwangozi kuti Nyumba Yachifumu ya Tlaxcala itilandire ndi zojambulajambula momwe mbiri yake imayimiriridwa kudzera mu chimanga. Kodi tingaganize kuti chiyambi cha tortilla chili m'dera lino?
Pofuna kuyesa kuzindikira chinsinsicho, tinapita kukafufuza mbuye Desiderio Hernández Xochitiotzin, katswiri wokonda zojambulajambula komanso wolemba mbiri ku Tlaxcala.
Master Xochitiotzin anali patsogolo pa zojambula zake, akukamba nkhani. Atavala ngati Diego Rivera, wamfupi, wokhala ndi khungu lofiirira komanso zikhalidwe zake zakale, adatikumbutsa mbiri yomwe imalimbikitsanso kupulumuka.
"Chiyambi cha tortilla ndichachikale kwambiri - aphunzitsi akutiuza - ndipo ndizosatheka kunena kuti chidapangidwa kuti, chifukwa tortilla imapezekanso m'chigwa cha Mexico, Toluca ndi Michoacán."
Kodi mizu yazilankhulo za Tlaxcala ikutanthauzanji kwa ife pamenepo?
“Tlaxcala adatchedwa choncho chifukwa ili pamalo apadera kwambiri: mbali yakum'mawa kuli mapiri a Malitzin kapena Malinche. Dzuwa limatulukira kumeneko ndikulowa kumadzulo, paphiri la Tláloc. Ndipo monga dzuwa limayendera, momwemonso mvula. Malowa amadziwika ndi kubzala kwabwino kwambiri; chifukwa chake amatchedwa Tierra de Maíz. Akatswiri ofufuza zinthu zakale apeza kuti zaka khumi kapena khumi ndi chimodzi zapitazo, koma si malo okhawo, alipo angapo ”.
Chizindikiro chofotokozedwa m'makoma a Master Desiderio, ojambulidwa pamakoma olowera pakhomo la Nyumba Yachifumu-nyumba ya 16th century, komwe Hernán Cortés amakhala--, zimalankhula nafe za kufunikira kwamphamvu kwa chimanga mdziko la Spain lisanachitike. Aphunzitsi amalankhula motere: "Chimanga ndiye dzuwa chifukwa moyo umachokera. Nthano imanena kuti Quetzalcóatl adatsikira ku Mictlán, komwe adafera, ndipo kumeneko adatenga mafupa amwamuna ndi wamkazi ndikupita kukawona mulungu wamkazi Coatlicue. Mkazi wamkazi adachimanga chimanga komanso mafupa apansi, ndipo kuchokera pachipatsocho Quetzalcóatl adapanga amuna. Ndiye chifukwa chake chakudya chawo chachikulu ndi chimanga ”.
Zithunzi za mbuye Xochitiotzin zimafotokoza mwaluso kwambiri mbiri ya Tlaxcala kudzera mu chimanga ndi maguey, zomwe ndizomera ziwiri zofunika kutukula chikhalidwe cha anthu awa: Teochichimecas Texcaltecas wakale, ambuye a Texcales, pomwe adakhala olima chimanga chachikulu Adapatsa kwawo dzina la Tlaxcallan, ndiye kuti, malo a Tlaxcallis kapena malo a chimanga.
Kufufuza kwathu komwe tortilla idayambira sikumatha apa, ndipo kukada tikupita ku Ixtenco, tawuni ya Otomí ku Tlaxcala yomwe imawonekera pamaso pathu ngati mzukwa, wokhala ndi misewu yayitali komanso yopanda anthu.
Akazi a Joseph Gabi de Melchor, omwe amadziwika ku Tlaxcala konse chifukwa cha nsalu zake zokongola, akutiyembekezera kunyumba kwawo. Ali ndi zaka makumi asanu ndi atatu, Doña Gabi akupera chimanga chake mwamphamvu pa metate, comal yayatsidwa kale ndipo utsi umadetsa mchipindamo kwambiri, kumazizira kwambiri ndipo fungo la nkhuni zoyaka limatilandira ndi kutentha kwake. "Ndinali ndi ana khumi ndi mmodzi - Amatiuza osatifunsa chilichonse. Ndinkazigaya ndikupanga tchipisi tawo. Pambuyo pake mpheroyo idayamba, ndipo m'modzi wa azilamu anga anali nawo. Tsiku lina anandiuza kuti: "Mukutani kumeneko, mkazi, mutsiriza metate yanu" ". Mwachikhalidwe, kunyumba kwa Doña Gabi ndi Don Guadalupe Melchor, mwamuna wake, chimanga chimabzalidwa; imasungidwa mu cuexcomate ndikusiya kuti iume, kuti kenako isungidwe. Atafunsidwa ngati tortilla idapangidwa ku Tlaxcala, mayiyo akuyankha kuti: "Ayi, idayambira pano, chifukwa Ixtenco idakhazikitsidwa Tlaxcala isanachitike. Anthu amalankhula kalikonse, koma nthano ya tawuniyi ndi imeneyo. Choipa ndikuti palibe amene akufuna kugaya, azolowera kugula. Kodi ukufuna mchere wambiri mumtanda wako? ”. Pomwe amalankhula nafe, timadya timitengo tating'onoting'ono tokha. Tidawona Dona Gabi akugwira ntchito ndi mayimbidwe, komanso osatopa, akupera metet. "Tawonani, ndimomwe amapera." Mphamvu yoyera, ndikuganiza. Ndipo kodi ndizotopetsa kwambiri kupanga ma tortilla? "Kwa iwo omwe amadziwa kale kugaya, ayi."
Usikuwo umadutsa mwakachetechete, podziwa pakati pa bata lalitali gawo layiwalika ku Mexico, chowonadi chakumidzi chomwe chikadali chamoyo chifukwa chokumbukira anthu ndi miyambo yawo. Kukumbukira za kununkhiza kwa utsi ndi nixtamal kumakhalabe ndi ife, manja olimba pa metate komanso azikhalidwe zaku Otomí. M'mawa, minda ya chimanga imawala pansi pa thambo lamtambo la Tlaxcala, lomwe limodzi ndi phiri la La Malintzin, limatichotsa kudziko losatha la dzuŵa la chimanga.
Gwero: Mexico Yosadziwika No. 298 / Disembala 2001
