Ndikukupemphani kuti muyende ulendo wopita ku Mexico City wolemekezeka komanso wokhulupirika monga momwe zinaliri m'zaka za zana la 18 ndi 19. Tikamadutsa titha kupeza paliponse mawonekedwe amitundu ndi mawonekedwe muzovala za anthu okhala likulu.
Pomwepo tidzapita kumunda, misewu yeniyeni ndi misewu yopita kumisewu ititengera kuti tiwunikirane za madera osiyanasiyana, tidzalowa m'matawuni, haciendas ndi m'mapiri. Amuna ndi akazi, ogwira ntchito, osakwanira, alimi, abusa kapena eni malo amavala zovala zachi Creole, ngakhale kutengera mtundu wawo, kugonana komanso chikhalidwe chawo.
Ulendo wongoganizirawu ungatheke chifukwa cha olemba, ojambula ndi ojambula zithunzi omwe amadziwa momwe angatengere zomwe adawona ku Mexico nthawi imeneyo. Baltasar de Echave, Ignacio Barreda, Villaseñor, Luis Juárez, a Rodríguez Juárez, a José Páez ndi a Miguel Cabrera ali m'gulu la akatswiri ojambula, aku Mexico komanso akunja, omwe akuwonetsa Mexico, njira yake yokhalira, kukhala ndi kuvala. Koma tiyeni tikumbukire mtundu wina wodabwitsa wa zaluso zachikhalidwe, zojambula zamtunduwu, zomwe zimawonetsera, osati anthu okha omwe adabwera chifukwa cha kusakanikirana kwa mafuko, koma chilengedwe, kavalidwe komanso mwala wamtengo wapatali womwe adagwiritsa ntchito.
M'zaka za zana la 19, odabwitsidwa ndi dziko "lachilendo" lofotokozedwa ndi Baron Humboldt, William Bullock ndi Joel. R. Poinsett, apaulendo osawerengeka adafika ku Mexico, ena mwa iwo ndi a Marionioness Calderón de la Barca ndi ena, monga Linati, Egerton, Nevel, Pingret ndi Rugendas omwe adasinthana ndi Mexico Arrieta, Serrano, Castro, Cordero, Icaza ndi Alfaro chidwi chofotokozera anthu aku Mexico. Olemba otchuka monga Manuel Payno, Guillermo Prieto, Ignacio Ramírez –el Nigromante–, José Joaquín Fernandez de Lizardi ndipo pambuyo pake Artemio de Valle Arizpe anatisiyira masamba ofunikira kwambiri a zochitika za tsiku ndi tsiku za nthawi imeneyo.
Viceregal mawonekedwe
Tiyeni tipite ku Meya wa Plaza Lamlungu m'mawa. Mbali imodzi ikuwonekera, limodzi ndi banja lake ndi omuzungulira, Viceroy Francisco Fernández de la Cueva, Duke waku Albuquerque. Atakwera ngolo yokongola yochokera ku Europe amabwera kudzamvera misa ku Cathedral.
Zilibe zovala zoyera zakumapeto kwa zaka za zana lachisanu ndi chimodzi mphambu zisanu ndi chimodzi zokha zomwe zinali zoyera zokha. Masiku ano mafashoni amtundu waku France a Bourbons apambana. Amunawa amavala mawigi ataliatali, opotana komanso opera, ma jekete avelvet kapena ma broketi, ma kolala achi Belgian kapena aku France, mathalauza a silika, masitonkeni oyera, ndi nsapato zachikopa kapena za nsalu zokhala ndi zokongoletsa zokongola.
Amayi azaka zoyambirira za zana lachisanu ndi chitatu amavala madiresi a silika kapena ma brocade okhala ndi ma neckline otchulidwa ndi masiketi akulu, momwe amayikapo chimango cha ziboda zotchedwa "guardainfante". Zovala zodabwitsazi zimakhala ndi zokongoletsa, zokongoletsera, zoluka zagolide ndi siliva, mitengo ya sitiroberi, miyala yamtengo wapatali, mikanda, sequins, ndi nthiti za silika. Ana amavala mofanana ndi zovala ndi zokongoletsera za makolo awo. Zovala za antchito, masamba ndi ophunzitsira ndizosangalatsa kwambiri kotero kuti zimaseketsa anthu odutsa.
Mabanja olemera achi Creole komanso a mestizo amatengera madiresi aku khothi la viceregal kuti awavale pamaphwando. Moyo wamagulu ndiwokwera kwambiri: chakudya, zokhwasula-khwasula, nthawi yolemba kapena nyimbo, magala saraos ndi miyambo yachipembedzo imadzaza nthawi ya abambo ndi amai. Akuluakulu achireole alipo, osati zovala ndi zodzikongoletsera zokha, komanso zomangamanga, zoyendera, zaluso m'mawonekedwe ake osiyanasiyana komanso muzinthu zonse za tsiku ndi tsiku. Atsogoleri apamwamba, asitikali, anzeru komanso ojambula ena amasinthana ndi "olemekezeka" omwe nawonso ali ndi akapolo, antchito ndi amayi akuyembekezera.
M'makalasi apamwamba mavalidwe amasintha ndi zochitika. Anthu aku Europe ndi omwe amalamula mafashoni, koma machitidwe aku Asia komanso mbadwa amakhala otsimikizika, zomwe zimapangitsa zovala zapadera ngati shawl, zomwe ofufuza ambiri amati adalimbikitsidwa ndi saree waku India.
Chaputala chapadera chimayenera zinthu za Kummawa zomwe zimabwera m'zombo. Silika, mabulosha, zodzikongoletsera, mafani ochokera ku China, Japan ndi Philippines amavomerezedwa kwambiri. Zovala za Manila, zokongoletsedwa ndi silika komanso mphonje zazitali, zimasangalatsanso anthu okhala ku New Spain. Chifukwa chake tikuwona kuti azimayi aku Zapotec aku Isthmus ndi ku Chiapas amakonzanso zojambula za mashawelo awo pamasiketi, mabulauzi ndi zithunzithunzi zawo.
Anthu apakati amavala zovala zosavuta. Atsikana amavala zovala zowala ndi mitundu yolimba, pomwe akazi achikulire ndi akazi amasiye amavala mitundu yakuda ndi khosi lalitali, mikono yayitali ndi zovala zopindika ndi chisa cha kamba.
Kuyambira pakati pa zaka za zana la 18, mafashoni sakhala okokomeza kwambiri mwa amuna, ma wigi amafupikitsidwa ndipo ma jekete kapena ma vesti amakhala oganiza bwino komanso ochepa. Amayi amakonda zovala zokongoletsa, koma tsopano masiketi ndi ocheperako; Mawotchi awiri adakalipobe m'chiuno, imodzi yomwe ndi nthawi ya Spain pomwe inayo ndi Mexico. Nthawi zambiri amavala kamba kapena ma velvet "chiqueadores", omwe nthawi zambiri amakongoletsa ndi ngale kapena miyala yamtengo wapatali.
Tsopano, motsogozedwa ndi Viceroy Conde de Revillagigedo, osoka zovala, osoka zovala, mathalauza, opanga nsapato, zipewa, ndi zina zambiri, apanga kale magulu kuti aziwongolera ndi kuteteza ntchito yawo, popeza gawo lalikulu lazovala zimapangidwa kale ku New Spain. M'malo osungira amonke, masisitere amapanga zingwe, nsalu, kutsuka, wowuma, mfuti, ndi chitsulo, kuphatikiza pa zokongoletsa zachipembedzo, zovala, zovala zapanyumba ndi miinjiro.
Sutiyi imazindikiritsa aliyense amene wavala, pachifukwa chimenecho lamulo lachifumu laperekedwa loletsa chipewa ndi kapu, chifukwa amuna omwe ali ndi ziboda nthawi zambiri amakhala amuna amakhalidwe oyipa. Anthu akuda amavala zovala zapamwamba za silika kapena thonje, manja ataliitali ndi zingwe m'chiuno ndizachikhalidwe. Azimayi amakhalanso ovala zovekerera kotero kuti atenga dzina loti "harlequins". Zovala zake zonse ndi zonyezimira, makamaka zofiira.
Mphepo zatsopano
Panthawi ya Kuunikiridwa, kumapeto kwa zaka za zana la khumi ndi chisanu ndi chiwiri, ngakhale panali kusintha kwakukulu pamakhalidwe, zandale komanso zachuma zomwe Europe idayamba kukumana nazo, olowa m'malowa adapitiliza kukhala ndi moyo wonyansa womwe ungakhudze malingaliro omwe adadziwika panthawi ya Ufulu. Wopanga mapulani a Manuel Tolsá, yemwe, mwa zina, adatsiriza kumanga tchalitchi chachikulu ku Mexico, amabwera atavala zovala zatsopano: chovala chovala chovala choyera, chovala chovala chaubweya wachikuda komanso choduladula. Zovala za azimayi zimakhudzidwa ndi Goya, ndizotsogola, koma zamdima wonyezimira ndi mitengo yambiri ya zingwe ndi sitiroberi. Amaphimba mapewa awo kapena mitu yawo ndi mantilla yachikale. Tsopano, azimayiwo ndi "opanda pake", amasuta mosalekeza ndipo amawerenga ndikukambirana zandale.
Patatha zaka zana limodzi, zithunzi za atsikana omwe amapita kukalowa nyumba ya masisitere, omwe amawoneka ovala bwino komanso miyala yamtengo wapatali, komanso mafumu amfumu achikhalidwe, omwe amawonetsedwa ndi mimbulu yokongoletsedwa bwino, amakhalabe umboni wa zovala za akazi. m'njira yaku Spain.
Misewu yotanganidwa kwambiri ku Mexico City ndi Plateros ndi Tacuba. Kumeneko, masitolo apadera amawonetsera masuti, zipewa, mipango ndi zodzikongoletsera zochokera ku Europe pamakona a m'mbali, pomwe ali mu "ma tebulo" kapena "matebulo" omwe ali mbali imodzi ya Nyumba Yachifumu, nsalu zamitundu yonse ndi zingwe zimagulitsidwa. Ku Baratillo, ndizotheka kupeza zovala zam'manja pamitengo yotsika ya anthu osauka apakati.
Zaka zakulimbikira
Kumayambiriro kwa zaka za zana la 19, zovala za akazi zidasintha kwambiri. Mothandizidwa ndi nthawi ya Napoleon, madiresi amakhala owongoka, ndi nsalu zofewa, m'chiuno chapamwamba ndi manja a "baluni"; tsitsi lalifupi limamangirizidwa ndipo ma curls ang'onoang'ono amayang'ana nkhope. Kuphimba pakhosi lalitali azimayiwo ali ndi mipango ndi zingwe zopangidwa ndi zingwe, zomwe amazitcha "modín". Mu 1803, a Baron de Humboldt avale mafashoni aposachedwa: mathalauza ataliatali, jekete lamtundu wankhondo ndi chipewa chokulirapo. Tsopano zingwe za suti ya amuna ndizochenjera kwambiri.
Ndi nkhondo yodziyimira pawokha ya 1810 kudabwera nthawi zovuta momwe mzimu wowonongera wakale ulibe malo. Mwina chokhacho ndicho ufumu wakanthawi wa Agustín de Iturbide, yemwe amapezeka pamanda ake ndi ermine Cape komanso korona wopusa.
Amunawa ali ndi tsitsi lalifupi ndipo amavala masuti ovuta, malaya amkati kapena malaya okhwima okhala ndi thalauza lakuda lakuda. Malayawo ndi oyera, ali ndi khosi lalitali lomalizidwa m'mauta kapena m'mapulasitiki (zingwe zazikulu). Amuna onyada ndi ndevu ndi masharubu amavala chipewa ndi ndodo. Umu ndi momwe otchulidwa mu Reformation amavalira, ndi momwe Benito Juárez ndi Lerdos de Tejada adadziwonetsera.
Kwa akazi, nthawi yachikondi imayamba: madiresi atakulungidwa ndi silika wambiri, masiketi a taffeta kapena thonje abwerera. Tsitsi lomwe limasonkhanitsidwa mu bun ndi lotchuka monga shawls, shawls, shawls ndi mipango. Amayi onse amafuna zimakupiza ndi ambulera. Ichi ndi chachikazi kwambiri, chokongola, komabe popanda zopitilira muyeso. Koma kudzichepetsa sikukhalitsa. Pakufika kwa Maximiliano ndi Carlota, ma saraos ndi mawonekedwe abwerera.
"Anthu" ndi mawonekedwe ake osasinthika
Tsopano tikuchezera misewu ndi misika kuti tiyandikire kwa "anthu amtauni". Amunawa amavala mathalauza afupiafupi kapena atali, koma palibe kuchepa kwa anthu omwe amangodziphimba ndi lamba, komanso malaya wamba ndi malaya ofunda ofiira, ndipo iwo omwe samayenda opanda nsapato amavala ma tchire kapena nsapato. Chuma chawo chikalola, amavala zolumpha ubweya kapena ma sarape okhala ndi mapangidwe osiyanasiyana kutengera dera lomwe adachokera. Petate, kumva ndi "bulu m'mimba" zipewa zimachuluka.
Amayi ena amavala zotchingira- nsalu yolumikizidwa pamakona yoluka m'chiuno ndi lamba kapena lamba-, ena amakonda siketi yowongoka yopangidwa ndi bulangeti yopangidwa ndi manja kapena nsalu, komanso yomangirizidwa ndi lamba, buluzi wozungulira wa mkanda ndi malaya a "baluni". Pafupifupi onse amavala nsalu pamutu, pamapewa, atawoloka pachifuwa kapena kumbuyo, kunyamula mwana.
Pansi pa siketi amavala siketi ya thonje kapena pansi yokongoletsedwa ndi ndowe kapena zingwe za bobini. Amapangidwa ndi zogawana pakati ndi zoluka (mbali kapena kuzungulira mutu) zomwe zimathera ndi maliboni achikuda. Kugwiritsiridwa ntchito kwa zikopa zokongoletsedwa kapena zovekedwa zomwe amavala mosasunthika, m'njira ya ku Spain isanachitike, ndikofala kwambiri. Amayiwo ndi ma brunettes okhala ndi tsitsi lakuda ndi maso, amasiyanitsidwa ndi ukhondo wawo komanso ndolo zawo zazikulu ndi mikanda yopangidwa ndi matanthwe, siliva, mikanda, miyala kapena mbewu. Amadzipangira okha zovala zawo.
Kumidzi, zovala za amuna zasinthidwa pakapita nthawi: chovala chosavuta chamtunduwu chimasinthidwa kukhala chovala chovala chamatumba atali atali ndi ma chaps kapena ma suede, malaya ofunda bulangeti ndi mikono yayitali ndi nsalu yayifupi kapena jekete yamutu. Zina mwazodziwika kwambiri ndi mabatani ena asiliva ndi maliboni omwe amakongoletsa chovalacho, komanso chopangidwa ndi zikopa kapena siliva.
Ma caporales amavala ma chaparera ndi ma suede cotonas, oyenera kuthana ndi zovuta zakumidzi. Nsapato zachikopa zokhala ndi zingwe komanso petate, soya kapena chipewa chachikopa - zosiyana mdera lililonse- malizitsani chovala cha munthu wakhama pantchito wakumidzi. A Chinino, alonda odziwika akumidzi a m'zaka za zana la khumi ndi chisanu ndi chinayi, amavala chovala ichi, chotsutsana ndi chovala cha charro, chodziwika bwino padziko lonse lapansi komanso chodziwika bwino chamunthu "waku Mexico".
Mwambiri, madiresi a "anthu", omwe ali ndi mwayi wochepa, asintha pang'ono pazaka zambiri ndipo zovala zomwe chiyambi chake chatayika munthawi yake zatsalabe. M'madera ena ku Mexico, madiresi asanakwane ku Spain amagwiritsidwabe ntchito kapena mwanjira inayake yomwe Colony idachita. M'malo ena, ngati sichikhala tsiku lililonse, amavala pamisonkhano yachipembedzo, yachitukuko komanso yachisangalalo. Ndizovala zopangidwa ndi manja, zopangidwa mwaluso komanso kukongola kwakukulu zomwe ndi mbali ya zaluso zodziwika bwino ndipo ndizopatsa ulemu, osati kwa iwo okha, komanso kwa anthu onse aku Mexico.
Gwero: Mexico mu Time No. 35 Marichi / Epulo 2000
