Pafupifupi zaka 300 zidadutsa, atamwalira (mu 1695), kuti tisangalale ndi bukuli, kusankhidwa ndi kusindikizidwa komwe kunapangidwa ndi Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz, ulemerero wa talente ya New Spain.
Tithokoze chifukwa cha chidwi cha katswiriyu Joaquin Cortina komanso kwa dotolo Jorge Gurría Lacroix Zolemba zofunikira zidapulumutsidwa ndikusungidwa ku Mexico, imodzi mwazo ndi zomwe zimatidetsa nkhawa. Timalandira pa ngongole pa kafukufuku wanu wam'mbali Josefina Muriel ndi amene awalemba.
Mwachilengedwe tinali okonda kuphunzira kwake, ndipo ngakhale kuti kuwerenga kwake sikunabweretse vuto lililonse, tidalemba kalembedwe kameneka ndikukwaniritsa kusindikiza kwake, kwamapangidwe apakalembedwe kameneka kabuku kameneka koyambirira komwe kumapereka. Bukuli lidatero Sor Juana "Kwa iye" monga momwe akatswiri akale anganene.
Mawu oyamba a Dr. Muriel ndi gawo la zolemba zanga zidawonjezeredwa, zomwe ndimadzipereka kwa aphunzitsi anga Mona ndi Felipe Teixidor, amuna anzeru ndi ma gourmets. Dr. Muriel akutiuza mulemba lake kuti:
"Zomwe mdzakazi wolemekezeka uja adakumana nazo zalengezedwa ndi iye momwe adayankhira Mlongo Filotea, kuti" Chabwino, ndingakuuze chiyani, Dona, zinsinsi zachilengedwe zomwe ndidazipeza ndikuphika? Onetsetsani kuti dzira likulowa ndi batala mu batala kapena mafuta ndipo, m'malo mwake, likuphwanyika m'madziwo; onetsetsani kuti shugawo akhalebe wamadzimadzi ndikokwanira kuwonjezera gawo laling'ono kwambiri lamadzi momwe zipatso kapena zipatso zina zowawazo zakhala; onetsetsani kuti yolk ndi zoyera za dzira lomwelo ndizosiyana kwambiri, kotero kuti mwa zomwe, zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito shuga, iliyonse imadzichitira yokha osati limodzi. "
Amanenanso za zochitika zophikira zomwe zimatsogolera Sor Juana kusinkhasinkha pa sayansi yoyeserera, koma nthawi yomweyo atisonyeze kudziwa kwake kuphika.
Izi zikutanthauza kuti, kukonzekera mbale zosiyanasiyana sizachilendo kwa iye, koma malingaliro ake samakhala nawo. Kuchita kosavuta kwambiri kwam'mimba kumakweza kuti "kuganiziranso kwachiwiri" kwa zinthu, zomwe ndizowoneka bwino. Ndi mzimayi wanthawi yake, motero modzichepetsa komanso wowoneka wonyoza akuti: "Koma, Madam, akazi angadziwe chiyani koma mafilosofi ophika?"
Sor Juana amapatula bukulo kwa m'modzi mwa alongo ake, mu sonnet (sichimodzi mwabwino kwambiri) yomwe imayamba:
"Wofewa, oh mlongo wanga wodzikonda." Ndikudziwona ndekha kuti ndilembe zolemba za Buku la Cook ndi misala bwanji! kumaliza, kenako ndidawona momwe ndimakopera molakwika.
Mu epilogue yanga, "Philosophy of kitchens", ndimasanthula buku lophika motere:
Kutsekedwa kwathyoledwa, mwanjira inayake Sor Juana amatitengera masomphenya a dziko lapansi la mestizo, wokhala mu Ufumu waku Spain womwe udalumikiza America ndikupanga lupanga ndi mapemphero.
Dziko la mestizo momwe kupezeka ku Europe sikumangoperekedwa ndi "tambala achi Portuguese", komanso "ma gigotes" (ochokera ku French "gigot" ntchafu), omwe mbale zawo zoyambirira za mabere a capon kapena miyendo ya veal zimatha kukhala nyama yodulidwa mutizidutswa tating'ono. Dziko la mestizo momwe Hispanics idanyamula "globulus" wachiroma pakati pazopereka chikwi, "puñuelos" yopangidwa ndi nkhonya yotsekedwa, yokutidwa ndi mimbulu ya zokonda za Mozarabic ndi chisangalalo chamasiku ano, idasandulika ma donuts okoma. Dziko lomwe ma "puddings" aku Britain adalanda ma prosopopoeia, amakhala purines wa sipinachi, pigweed kapena quelites.
Ndipo anthu aku Turk, mdani wakale wa Matchalitchi Achikhristu, adzakumbukiridwa chifukwa chogwiritsa ntchito kwambiri mtedza wa paini, walnuts, zoumba ndi ma acitron, osakanikirana ndi chimanga, mpunga, nyama, ndi kuumbidwa monganso momwe anthu amtunduwu amaganizira kuti anthu aku Turkey adzaumba ma bonnet awo. ; koma osadziwa chiyambi cha "pilaf" yemwe amamenya keke ya mpunga komanso mu alfajores.
Dziko lapansi ndilabwino kwambiri, maphikidwe ake onse - osachepera khumi - ndi odyetserako mchere, ndipo pakati pawo pali jericaya kapena jiricaya, dzina lofufuzidwa mopanda tanthauzo m'madikishonale onse a Covarrubias ndi Authorities, kuti alipeze pomaliza, momveka bwino Ma Mexico a Santa María ndikuti imagwiritsidwa ntchito mdera lonse kotero kuti ikuphatikiza Costa Rica.
Pachikhalidwe cha tirigu, buledi ndi oyamwa, maziko a "ante" onse abwino, New Spain idzawonjezera ziwonetsero zonse za "ndiwo zochuluka mchere zomwe zimapachikidwa pamitengo" monga Marioness Calderón de la Barca Adafotokozera ma mame, mango, ma chicozapotes ndi Anonas Nuricata kapena mitu yakuda, soursop wokoma.
Dziko lomwe kupezeka kwachikhalidwe kwa okondedwa kwambiri kwa a Sor Juana kumafotokozedwa mwatsatanetsatane ndi iye, mwatsatanetsatane. Ndikubwerera ku chilengedwe cha ubwana wake, kuthawa kwake kupita ku "khitchini ya utsi" ya hacienda, kuti akawonerere atayika "nixcoma". Kwa maphikidwe "amayi" a gawo lachilengedwe: mole wochokera ku Oaxaca ndi mphodza wakuda. Manchamanteles tsopano ndi njira yochokera ku New Spain.
Chilankhulo cha zikhalidwe zamakolo ndi zolowetsa zawo, zizolowezi zawo zophikira ndi njira zina zapadera, zomwe masiku ano sieve sizinasinthidwe.
Pomaliza, ndiloleni ndiwonjezere pamenepo Sor Juana Izi zikuwonetseratu zomwe ndikuganiza mu lingaliro langa laku Mexico gastronomy mitundu iwiri yapachiyambi: Zolemba zatsopano za ku Spain, "kale" ndi "cajeta", momwe maphikidwe ake oyamba amafotokozera kugwiritsa ntchito ladle yasiliva - ndiye kuti, zinsinsi zazing'ono zomwe Amapanga kuphika luso, ndi timitengo tating'onoting'ono tomwe timakhala tambiri, tetlomole mwina kuti tisiyanitse ndi timadontho tating'onoting'ono ndi msuzi wozizira.
Ndimagwirizana ndi Sor Juana kuti ndikondwere nawo "ntchito" zake zam'mimba, mokwanira kuti kuphika kumakhala chikondi cha tsiku ndi tsiku, ndipo ndikupempha owerenga kuti achite chimodzimodzi ndi maphikidwe zomwe zili pansipa:
Fritters za tchizi
Zakudya zatsopano za 6, paundi ya ufa, batala wapakatikati, wosungunuka ndi tchizi wapansi. Amaphwanyidwa atakodwa bwino ndi pini, odulidwa ndi chikho ndi yokazinga.
Suede wamitu yaying'ono yakuda
Weniweni wa mitu yaying'ono, idem ya mkaka, paundi ya shuga, theka la madzi a lalanje, zonse pamodzi zimaphika mpaka zitakhuta. Amayika zigawo za sucker ndi pasta iyi. Zokongoletsedwa monga zonsezi kale.
Beet suede
Yophika beets ndi chidutswa cha shuga, peeled ndi nthaka. Kwa paundi ya beets id. shuga amaponyedwa m'madzimadzi omwe siakuthwa kwambiri ndipo amachitanso chimodzimodzi.
Jericaya
Mkaka wophika umakoma. Pakapu ya mkaka, yolks 4, sakanizani ndikutsanulira mu chikho, wiritsani m'madzi ndi comal pamwamba, kuti mudziwe ngati ndi choncho, ikani udzu mpaka utuluke. Kenako onjezani sinamoni.
Keke ya mpunga
Pangani mpunga ndi mkaka, popeza ndi wabwino, patulani ndikufalitsa casserole ndi batala ndikutsanulira theka la mpunga mu casserole yozizira, mince yakonzeka kale ngati ikudzaza phwetekere, nsonga yokoma, zoumba, maamondi , mtedza wa paini, acitrón ndi capers ndikuwonjezera theka lina la mpunga ndikuyika pama burner awiri ndikufalitsa batala pamwamba pake ndi nthenga zina kuti ziphike, zimachotsedwa.
Chimanga cha ku Turkey cacaguazintle
Ikani chimanga cha niscomil (sic) kenako chotsukidwa, choduladulidwa ndi chopunthira ngati tamales, batala, shuga ndi ma yolks omwe mukufuna mungafufuze, bola mulibe ambiri; Ili ndi mincemeat ndi zoumba, maamondi, acitrón, mtedza wa paini, ma capers, dzira lowira ndi nsonga ya zotsekemera. Ndi yopepuka ngati ma tortilla a metate ndipo amawonjezeredwa poto wofalikira ndi batala. Pambuyo pa mincemeat ndiyeno wosanjikiza wina wa mtanda ndi kuvala zowotchera ziwiri, ndikuzipaka ndi batala ndi nthenga zina motero zimaphika, onjezani shuga wambiri ndikuziyika pambali.
Clemole wochokera ku Oaxaca
Kwa casserole yapakatikati, ma cilantro owotcha ochepa, 4 adyo owotcha adyo, ma clove asanu, ma peppercorns asanu ndi limodzi, monga clove ya sinamoni, ancho tsabola tsabola kapena pasillas, monga momwe mumafunira, chilichonse chimanena bwino komanso mwachangu Kenako nkhumba, chorizo ndi nyama ya nkhuku zimawonjezedwa.
Keke ya mpunga
Mpunga umaphikidwa pa chopukutira, kotero kuti umaphika, safironi amawonjezeranso kudya. Mince idzachitika ndi zoumba, ma capers, maamondi, mtedza wa paini, dzira lowira, maolivi, chilitos. Casserole imafalikira ndi batala ndipo theka la mpunga limawonjezedwa pansipa kenako mincemeat kenako theka lina la mpunga ndi shuga wothira pamwamba ndikuyika zotentha ziwiri.
Msuzi wakuda
M'magawo ofanana amadzi ndi viniga, mumaphika nyama, kenako pogaya phwetekere, sinamoni, ma clove, tsabola ndi mwachangu ndi magawo a anyezi ndi parsley, atamasulidwa, kotero caldillo yatha, safironi yake, suve (sic) kupanga ngati capirotada ku Cape.
Sipinachi slurry
Amayi awiri a Ieche ndi makeke awiri a mamon enieni ndi theka ndi mazira khumi ndi awiri. Onjezani yolks, mabotolo anayi ndi mapaundi awiri a shuga. Sipinachi amapera ndikusakanizidwa ndi mkaka ndipo zonsezi zimaphikidwa palimodzi ndipo zikuphikidwa komanso moto pansi ndi pansi, mutaphika zimapatulidwa ndikukhazikika pa mbale.
Gigote yakhazikitsidwa
Dulani ndi kutchera nkhuku ndi nyengo ndi zonunkhira zake zonse, kenako muike magawo a mkate wofufumitsa mu poto wodzozedwa ndi batala kuti magawo ena akuti ayikidwe, amawazidwa vinyo, ndikuikanso mkaka wina wa mkaka ndi sinamoni owazidwa pamwamba ndi ma clove ndi tsabola; ndiye mkate wina wosanjikiza, mupitilizabe kuchita chimodzimodzi mpaka kudzaza casserole, yomwe mumaliza ndi magawowo, ndiye kuti muwonjezere msuzi wonse womwe udatsalira kuchokera ku gigote, ndikuwonjezera dzira lamazira omenyedwa pamwamba.
Manchamanteles
Tsabola Chili deveined ndi akhathamira usiku, nthaka ndi nthangala za zitsamba toasted ndi yokazinga onse batala, inu kuwonjezera madzi zofunika, nkhuku, magawo nthochi, mbatata, apulo ndi mchere zofunika.
Matambala achi Portuguese
Tengani phwetekere, parsley, peppermint ndi adyo, dulani ndi viniga wokwanira, mafuta ndi mitundu yonse ya zonunkhira, kupatula safironi, ndikuyika tambala ndi zidutswa za ham kuti aziphika zokutidwa bwino ndipo zimaphika, onjezerani ma chiki, maolivi, ma capers ndi capers.
