Ku Chicontepec ndi Álamo Temapache, anthu aku Huasteca Veracruzana, miyambo yakale kwambiri imasungidwa ndipo chisamaliro chapadera chodziwika bwino chimasungidwa.
Chovala chachikazi chataya mizu yake, koma chimasunga zinthu zofunika kuzidziwika.
Zovala zachikazi ku Mesoamerica zinali zapadera mdziko lapansi, mofananamo muulemerero wake ndi Agiriki, Aroma kapena Aigupto, ngakhale kuti mwina anali owoneka bwino kwambiri, popeza chikhalidwe cha miyambo isanachitike ku Colombiya chinali chodzaza ndi polychromy ndipo chinali ndi malingaliro ambiri, omwe adakopa zovala za anthu ake. Ogonjetsa a ku Spain anali mboni zoyamba zakunja za utoto wamitundu iyi, wowonekera pakukongoletsa kwa amuna ndi akazi aku Mesoamerica. M'ufumu wonse wa Aztec, azimayi modzikuza adavala zikopa zokongola zokhala ndi khosi lalikulu ndi zokongoletsera, zodulidwa molunjika, zazitali komanso zotayirira, zokhala ndi zikopa zazing'ono kapena masiketi omwe adakutidwa mozungulira thupi ndikumangidwa ndi lamba wopota. Kumbali yawo, azimayi aku dera la Totonacapan adavala quechquémel, chovala chooneka ngati daimondi chotsegula pamutu chomwe chidaphimba pachifuwa, kumbuyo ndi gawo la chincuete kapena siketi yachilengedwe. Zovala izi zidagwiritsidwa ntchito ndi kusintha kwina ndi zigawo zonse za pre-Columbian Mexico, ndipo zimapangidwa kumbuyo ndi nsalu zopota zabwino za thonje; omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito pamadyerero amadziwika ndi mitundu yawo komanso nsalu zawo, ndipo adadula nsaluzo ndi utoto wachilengedwe womwe umapezeka kuchokera ku tizilombo, zomera ndi zipolopolo.
Kuchokera kumalire akumpoto mpaka kumalire akumwera kwa dziko lathu, azimayi achikhalidwe amakonda zokongoletsa zamitundu yambiri komanso zovala zawo. Mikanda, ndolo, zibangili, mipiringidzo ya mano, maliboni ndi zikwangwani zomwe amakometsera makongoletsedwe awo akulu, zikuwonetsa kulemera kwakukulu kwazovala zawo, zomwe zidayamba kalekale pakati pa a Nahuas, Totonacs, Mayans, Huastecs, kungotchulapo ochepa. a mafuko omwe amakhala mmaiko awa.
Monga momwe Tarahumara, Mayan kapena mkazi wa Nahua wochokera ku Cuetzalan amadziwika ndi kavalidwe kake, ndizotheka kuzindikira mayi wa Nahua wochokera ku Chicontepec; Ngakhale zovala zawo zikuwonetsa kukopa kwakukulu ku Spain, chikhalidwe chawo chachikulu ndi chisonyezo cha syncretism, chikhalidwe chomwe chimavala njira yaku Europe yovalira, yolumikizidwa ndi mitundu yayikulu yazovala zawo, kugwiritsa ntchito mikanda yambiri ndi zithumwa, ndolo zopangidwa ndi golidi ndi siliva, maliboni ndi ma stamens amitundu mitundu omwe amasunga miyambo, zovala ndi chilankhulo.
Pafupifupi azimayi onse azaka zopitilira 50 amavala mokongoletsa zovala zomwe zimawazindikira ndikuwapangitsa kukhala onyada, koma osatha zaka zoposa 40. Zosintha zachitika kale mzaka 25 mpaka 30 zapitazi; M'buku la The indigenous costume in Mexico, lolembedwa ndi Teresa Castelló ndi Carlota Mapelli, lofalitsidwa ndi National Institute of Anthropology and History (1965), kugwiritsa ntchito chovala chomwe sichikuwonanso m'tawuni ya Chicontepec kwatchulidwa.
Bulauzi wodulidwa waku Europe wotchedwa ikoto amapangidwa ndi bulangeti, thonje kapena poplin, ili ndi manja amfupi ndi kansalu kakang'ono kakang'ono, kamene kali ndi ulusi woluka buluu kapena utoto wofiira mozungulira, kamapangidwa m'mitundu iwiri: umodzi wokhala ndi mikwingwirima iwiri (umodzi kutsogolo , pakatikati paphokoso, ndi wina kumbuyo), onse omata otchedwa itenkoayo tlapoali, ali ndi zojambula zazing'ono zazithunzi kapena zokongola zamitundu yowala kwambiri, zala zitatu pakatundu kakang'ono ngati singano kotchedwa kechtlamitl; Chidutswachi chalumikizidwa kumunsi kumunsi kuchokera kutsogolo ndi khola laling'ono kapena xolochtik, chomalizidwa mozungulira komanso mozungulira; bulawuzi wina amakhala ndi nsalu yozungulira mbali yakumtunda, yokongoletsedwa ndi nsalu yoluka pamtanda yotchedwa ixketla tlapoali, onse pamanja, kutsogolo ndi kumbuyo, kuyimira ziweto za nyama, maluwa kapena ma fret mitundu yambiri ndipo imalumikiza gawo lakumunsi chimodzimodzi ndi loyambalo; mitundu iwiri ya bulawuzi imayikidwa kutsogolo kwa siketi ndipo kumbuyo ndikotayirira.
Malinga ndi mamvekedwe ndi mphamvu yogula ya mkazi aliyense, siketiyo imakafika akakolo ndipo imakhala ndi lamba wokhala ndi zingwe zomwe zimalola kuti zizilumikizidwa m'chiuno; pakati pake ili ndi zokongoletsera za zingwe ndi nthiti za masentimita 5 zamitundu yosiyanasiyana yotchedwa ikuetlatso; Tucks 4 kapena 5 kapena tlapopostektli zimayikidwa m'mphepete, ndi kansalu kansalu komweko koma ndi makutu otchedwa itenola, yomwe imaphwanya kupitiriza kwake; Chovala cha m'chiuno kapena iixpantsaja chimavalidwa pamwamba pa siketi, yomwe imafika pansi pa bondo ndipo imapangidwa ndi nsalu ya polyester yaku Scottish, yoyamikiridwa kwambiri ndi azimayi.
Ambiri omwe amavala motere, amaluka nsonga zawo ndi ndowe kapena nsalu za singano ndikusoka masiketi awo kapena kusoka makina. Chovala chakale chakumbuyo chayiwalika, ndipo kupatula nthawi zina chimagwiritsidwa ntchito ndi azimayi azaka zopitilira 70, omwe amapanga zopukutira m'manja za thonje, zomwe zimayamikiridwa kwambiri ngati mphatso m'miyambo yachikwati. Makina omwe adakalipo amakhalabe kumapeto kwa chitseko cha nyumbayo ndipo enawo mpaka m'chiuno mwa munthu amene amaigwiritsa ntchito, pogwiritsa ntchito kuitlapamitl, ngati mecapal. Olukawo nthawi zina amalima kuthengo ndikugwira ntchito yopanga ulusi wa thonje, ndikupanga ulusi wawo kapena malacatl, wopangidwa ndi magawo awiri: ndodo ya pafupifupi 30 cm ndi dongo laling'ono lomwe amalumikiramo. ndi gawo lozungulira pansi, ngati cholemera. Chokhachokha chimayikidwa mu chidebe chaching'ono kapena chaualkaxitl. Chovalacho chimapangidwa ndi matabwa osasunthika, omwe amagwira ntchito mosiyanasiyana.
Patsiku labwinobwino ku Chicontepec, zochitika za akazi tsiku lililonse zimayamba ndikuwonekera kwa kuwala koyamba kwa dzuwa, pakamveka phokoso lakupera chimanga. Amayi ena amatenga madzi kuchokera zitsime ndikupeza mwayi wosamba ndikutsuka zovala, pomwe ena amachita zomwezi mdera la akasupe. Amabwerera kuzinyumba zawo akuyenda opanda nsapato, monga momwe amagwiritsidwira ntchito kuyambira nthawi zam'mbuyomu ku Puerto Rico, atanyamula mwana wamwamuna wodzala ndi zovala kapena chidebe chodzaza madzi pamitu yawo, zomwe amazisunga mosamala ngakhale atakhala otsetsereka, opanda asiye ena atayike.
Kuderali kumachitika zikondwerero zambiri zakale, zomwe ndi izi: tlamana kapena zopereka zachimanga, ndi zomwe zimatchedwa tlakakauase, zomwe zimachitika pomwe achinyamata awiri aganiza zokwatirana. Kenako mkwati amabweretsa mphatso zambiri kwa makolo a mtsikanayo. Pakuchezeraku mayiyo amavala zovala zake zabwino kwambiri ndipo amaluka tsitsi lake ndi maliboni ang'onoang'ono amtundu wa mitundu yosiyanasiyana, omwe amayenda pafupifupi mainchesi eyiti kuchokera kumapeto kwa tsitsi; khosi limakutidwa ndi mikanda yambiri yopangidwa ndi mikanda yamagalasi yopanda pake, kapena zinthu zina zowala, mendulo, ndalama; Amavala mphete zagolide kapena zasiliva zooneka ngati theka la mwezi, zosemedwa m'tawuni ya "Cerro". Kukongoletsa konseku kukukumbutsa za ukulu wakale, womwe umakhalabe mu moyo wazikhalidwe zaku Mexico, womwe umayamikirabe mitundu yowala, zokongoletsa, miyala yamtengo wapatali komanso kuwonekera kwa zovala zake.
MUKAPITA KU CHICONTEPEC
Tengani msewu no. 130, yomwe imadutsa ku Tulancingo, Huauchinango, Xicotepec de Juárez ndi Poza Rica. Mtauni ya Tihuatlán, tengani msewu womwe umadutsa pampando wamatauni wotchedwa Álamo Temapache, ndipo pafupifupi 3 km mupeza zopatukira ku Ixhuatlán de Madero ndi Chicontepec, komwe mudzafika mutadutsa matauni a Lomas de Vinazco, Llano de Pakatikati, Colatlán ndi Benito Juárez. Amakhala pafupifupi 380 km ndipo ntchito zonse zilipo.
Gwero: Mexico Yosadziwika No. 300 / February 2002
