Mofananamo ndi Nyanja ya Caribbean, Riviera Maya imayenda mtunda wopitilira 180 km, kuchokera ku Puerto Morelos kupita ku Felipe Carrillo Puerto, dera lodzaza mbiri ndi chuma chachilengedwe, komwe kulimba komanso kukhazikika kwa miyambo ya nzika zake kumatsimikizika m'moyo watsiku ndi tsiku wa nzika zake. chikhalidwe chakale.
Kuyenda kudera la Quintana Roo nthawi zonse kumabweretsa zodabwitsa, ngakhale mutapita kumpoto, komwe kuchuluka kwa anthu komanso ndalama zosapitilira mu hotelo kapena malo ogwiritsira ntchito alendo zimawonekera, kuposa ngati mupita kumwera, posachedwa Kuphatikizidwa mu Riviera Maya, koma mdera lawo, mwamwayi, padakali madera akuluakulu, omwe sanadziwikebe, okhala ndi zokopa alendo zochepa komanso madera omwe amasungabe mabungwe awo azachuma komanso opindulitsa m'machitidwe achikhalidwe. Chifukwa cha izi, njira yodutsa m'dera lino la Mayan inali yosiyana kwambiri ndi yomwe idapangidwa kuchokera ku Puerto Morelos kupita ku Tulum, mosakayikira konsekonse.
NJIRA IYAMBA
Playa del Carmen amatilandira dzuwa litalowa, ndipo titasankha galimoto yabwino yoyenda pamsewu, timayang'ana hotelo komwe tingagone usiku woyamba, kuti tibwezeretse mabatire athu ndikunyamuka molawirira kupita ku Felipe Carrillo Puerto, komwe tikupita. Tidasankha Maroma, yokhala ndi zipinda 57 zokha, mtundu wopulumukirako alendo ake pakati pa gombe lakutali. Pamenepo, mwamwayi kwa ife usiku wathunthu wa mweziwu timatenga nawo gawo pa temazcal, malo osamba omwe amayeretsa moyo ndi thupi, pomwe pa ola limodzi ndi theka lazomwe opezekapo amalimbikitsidwa kuti akwaniritse miyambo yomwe mizu yake imakhudzidwa kwambiri ndi miyambo ya Amaya akale ndi Aazteki, nzika zaku North America, komanso chikhalidwe cha Aiguputo.
Osanena kuti chinthu choyamba m'mawa ndife okonzeka kukweza mafuta kufupi ndi Playa del Carmen, odziwika padziko lonse lapansi ngakhale osapitilira anthu 100,000, komanso mtsogoleri wa boma la Solidaridad, zomwe ena asangalala nazo Akuluakulu ake ndi omwe akuchuluka kwambiri ku Mexico, pafupifupi 23% pachaka. Pamwambowu tikupitilizabe, ngakhale tikukana, timayesedwa kuti tiziima pamalo amodzi osangalatsa omwe amalengezedwa m'mbali mwa mseu, kaya ndi paki yotchuka ya eco-archaeological ya Xcaret kapena Punta Venado, malo opita ndi Mahekitala 800 a nkhalango ndi ma km anayi kunyanja.
PAMBUYO PATSOPANO
Timadzipereka ku chidwi chofuna kupita kumapanga a Kantun-Chi, omwe dzina lawo limatanthauza "pakamwa pa mwala wachikaso" mu Mayan. Apa ma cenotes anayi omwe alipo alipo otseguka kwa anthu onse, omwe amatha kusambira m'madzi ake oyera pansi. Oyamba panjira ndi Kantun Chi, pomwe amatsatiridwa ndi Sas ka leen Ha kapena "madzi owonekera". Lachitatu ndi la Uchil Ha kapena "madzi akale", ndipo lachinayi ndi Zacil Ha kapena "madzi oyera", pomwe masana dzuŵa limawoneka pamene akudutsa dzenje lachilengedwe, lomwe ndi zimawonetsera m'madzi, ndimphamvu yakuthupi ndi mthunzi.
Nthawi imadutsa osazindikira ndipo timathamanga kuyenda kukaona Grutaventura, yopangidwa ndi ma cenotes awiri olumikizidwa ndi makonde opangidwa mwachilengedwe, omwe kutalika ndi mulifupi mwake amadzaza ndi stalactites ndi stalagmites. Makilomita ochepa patsogolo tikuwona kulengeza kwa mapanga ena, a Aktun Chen, omwe tidakumana nawo paulendo wapitawu. Komabe, tikufuna kuyendera malo ofukulidwa m'mabwinja a Tulum, ofunikira paulendo wodutsa.
Timaima kuti timwe madzi azipatso ku La Esperanza, komwe amati tikadutsa magombe odekha a Caleta de Solimán kapena Punta Tulsayab, koma tikupitilizabe kupita kumabwinja, ngakhale kuli kochepa kufuna kulowa.
TULUM KAPENA "DZIKO"
M'malo mwake, ndi amodzi mwamalo omwe munthu satopa kukawachezera. Ili ndi matsenga apadera, okhala ndi zovuta zomwe zimayang'anizana ndi nyanja, zomwe malinga ndi kafukufuku waposachedwa, zikadakhala kuti ndi umodzi mwamizinda yayikulu yaku Mayan m'zaka za zana la 13 ndi 14th. Panthawiyo anali kutchedwa "Zamá", yokhudzana ndi liwu lachi Mayan "m'mawa" kapena "m'bandakucha", zomveka popeza malowa amapezeka kwambiri pagombe lakummawa, pomwe kutuluka kwa dzuwa muulemerero wake wonse.
Dzinalo la Tulum, chifukwa chake, likuwoneka ngati laposachedwa. Anamasuliridwa m'Chisipanishi ngati "palisade" kapena "wall", momveka bwino kwa zomwe zasungidwa pano. Ndipo ngakhale sitinasangalale ndi kutuluka kwa dzuwa koteroko, tidadikirira mpaka nthawi yotseka kuti tiganizire za nthawi yamadzulo, pakati pa kukula kwa buluu yankhondo ndi zomangamanga, osakhudzidwa ndi kuwukira kwa mphamvu zachilengedwe.
Kukuda ndipo tikudziwa kuti kuchokera mtawuni ya Tulum msewu umachepetsa mpaka njira ziwiri zokha osayatsa mpaka Felipe Carrillo Puerto, ndiye tikupita kunyanja pafupi ndi msewu waukulu wa Ruinas de Tulum-Boca Paila, komanso pa km 10 tinaganiza zaku hotelo yachilengedwe yomwe ili patsogolo pa Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve. Kumeneko, titalawa nkhanu zokoma za adyo, gulu lowotchera komanso mowa wozizira, timagona. Komabe, pamene kuwala kumalowera pafupifupi mbandakucha kudzera pazenera lotseguka, ndikuphimbidwa ndi chitetezo chochepa ku udzudzu, timakhala tikusamba m'mawa m'mawa pagombelo ndimadzi owonekera komanso ofunda ngati ena ochepa.
KULANDIRA MTIMA WA MAYAN
Tili panjira, timakhudzidwa ndi mipando ina yopangidwa ndi nzimbe kapena liana yoperekedwa ndi amisiri omwewo mchinyumba chapamwamba pamtunda wa Chumpón Cruise. Amapereka chithunzithunzi chazinthu zachilengedwe za mbadwazo, omwe amapeza zinthu zachilengedwe njira yabwino yopezera zofunika pamoyo wawo.
Sitichedwetsa nthawi yayitali, chifukwa maupangiri amtsogolo, oyendetsa maulendo a Xiimbal, akutiyembekezera pampando wamatauni, bungwe loyang'anira lomwe ndi a Gilmer Arroyo, wachinyamata wokonda dera lake, yemwe wapereka lingaliro limodzi ndi akatswiri ena kufalitsa ndikuteteza Lingaliro lachilengedwe cha anthu aku Mayan ndi a Gabriel Tun Can, omwe atiperekeze paulendowu. Aitanitsa omenyera ufulu wawo pachakudya, monga katswiri wa zamoyo Arturo Bayona, wochokera ku Ecociencia ndi Proyecto Kantemó, yemwe chidwi chake chachikulu ndi Khola la Njoka Zolendewera, a Julio Moure, ochokera ku UNDP ndi a Carlos Meade, wamkulu wa Yaxche 'Project, yemwe akuwona kuti "polimbikitsa chilengedwe cha anthu aku Mayan, bungwe lotenga nawo gawo la anthu okhala m'malo aliwonse limalimbikitsidwa, ndi zochitika zosinthana zachikhalidwe zomwe zimalimbikitsanso chikhalidwe chamayiko, ndikupititsa patsogolo chitukuko chachilengedwe. amapereka phindu lachindunji kwa am'deralo ". Mwanjira imeneyi, akutiitanira kukacheza mdera la Señor tsiku lotsatira, lomwe ndi anthu opitilira zikwi ziwiri okha omwe amakhala ngati malo ophatikizira kumpoto kwa matauni, ndipo ntchito zake zazikulu ndi ulimi, kupanga zipatso, nkhalango ndi ulimi. kuweta njuchi.
Pambuyo pake, timapita kumalo osangalatsa kwambiri m'mbiri, Sanctuary ya Talking Cross, kachisi wakale wa Katolika wa Santa Cruz, Msika, Pila de los Azotes ndi Nyumba Yachikhalidwe. Lakhala tsiku lalitali ndipo thupi limapempha kale kupumula, titatsitsimutsa tokha ndi madzi okoma a chaya ndikudzipatsa tokha salute, tidakhazikika ku Hotel Esquivel, kuti tisangalale mopumula.
KUKUMANA NDI ZINTHU
Panjira yopita ku Tihosuco, pamsewu waukulu wa 295 timapita ku Señor, komwe tidzagawana ndi ena mwaomwe akukhalamo zokumana nazo pamoyo watsiku ndi tsiku, miyambo yawo ndi zakudya wamba, zoyitanidwa ndi omwe akukonza XYAAT Community Ecotourism Project. M'mbuyomu, Meade adatifotokozera kuti m'derali ambiri amasungabe mabanja ngati maziko a mabungwe azachuma komanso opindulitsa, ndikuti pachimake pazochitikazo ndikupanga chakudya chodzidyera, m'malo awiri: chachikulu, milpa, pamtunda wapafupi ndi tawuniyi wokhala ndi mbewu monga chimanga, nyemba, sikwashi ndi ma tubers, pomwe enawo amagwira ntchito pamalopo, kuzungulira nyumba, pomwe pali masamba ndi mitengo yazipatso, nkhuku ndi nkhumba.
Komanso, m'nyumba zina muli minda yazipatso yokhala ndi zitsamba, monga zimadziwika ndi ochiritsa abwino kapena asing'anga - ambiri, azimayi, azamba, azitsamba, ngakhale mfiti, onse amalemekezedwa kwambiri chifukwa ali ndi mbiri yochokera mu nzeru wotchuka wa makolo awo. M'modzi mwa othandizawa ndi María Vicenta Ek Balam, yemwe amatilandira kumunda wake wodzala ndi zitsamba zochiritsa ndikufotokozera za mankhwala azitsamba, zonse zomwe zili mchilankhulo cha Mayan, chomwe timakonda kusangalala, pomwe a Marcos, mtsogoleri wa XYAAT , kumasulira pang'onopang'ono.
Chifukwa chake, amalangiza kuchezera wolemba nthano kapena "zizindikilo", momwe amatchulidwira. Chifukwa chake, Mateo Canté, atakhala mchipinda chake chodyera, akutiuza ku Mayan nkhani zopeka za maziko a Señor komanso kuchuluka kwamatsenga komweko. Pambuyo pake, tikumana ndi wopanga zida zoimbira m'derali, Aniceto Pool, yemwe ali ndi zida zochepa chabe zimapangitsa bom bom kapena tamboras zomwe zimawunikira zikondwerero zachigawo. Pomaliza, kuti muchepetse kutentha, tidathawa kwakanthawi kusambira m'madzi abata a Blue Lagoon, makilomita atatu kulowera ku tawuni ya Chancen Comandante. Tidabwerera, ndipamene pomwe, omwe amawatsogolera a XYAAT adayankha ndikumwetulira koyipa kuti panali ng'ona m'mabanki, koma anali amwano. Unalidi nthabwala yabwino yaku Mayan.
PAKUFUNA KWA NJOKA
Mapeto a ulendowu ali pafupi, koma kuchezera ku Kantemó kulibe, kuti mupite kuphanga la Njoka Zolendewera. Timapita ndi akatswiri a sayansi ya zamoyo Arturo Bayona ndi Julissa Sánchez, omwe, atakumana ndi kukayikira kwathu, amakonda kupitilizabe kuyembekezera. Chifukwa chake, panjira yapa Highway 184, atadutsa José María Morelos, atafika ku Dziuché, makilomita awiri kuchokera ku Kantemó, mudzi womwe ntchitoyi ikuchitika - mothandizidwa ndi Commission for the Development of Indigenous Peoples (CDI) ndi Ecociencia, AC.
Timakwera bwato lalifupi podutsa m'nyanjayi kenako timadutsa njira yamakilomita asanu kuti tiwone mbalame zomwe zikukhala komanso zosamukasamuka. Tiyenera kudikirira madzulo pamene mileme yosawerengeka iyamba kutuluka pakamwa pa phanga, mphindi yoyenera kutsikira, chifukwa ndiye njoka, zodetsa mbewa, zimayimirira kuti ziziwakanthe, zikubwera kuchokera kuzipinda zokhala mosalala padenga la phanga. ndikulendewera pansi kumalendewera kumchira, kuti ugwire mileme ikuyenda mwachangu ndipo nthawi yomweyo amapinda thupi lake kuti lipumidwe ndi kugaya pang'onopang'ono. Ndi chiwonetsero chosangalatsa komanso chapadera, chomwe chatulutsidwa posachedwa, ndipo chakhala chokopa chachikulu mu pulogalamu yapa ecotourism yoyendetsedwa ndi anthu akumaloko.
PA NKHONDO YOSAVUTA
Pafupifupi m'malire ndi boma la Yucatán pali Tihosuco, tawuni yomwe yakhala ndi mbiri yakale, koma ndi anthu ochepa masiku ano ndipo zikuwoneka ngati zasiya nthawi. Kumeneko tinafika kuti tiwone Museum of Caste War yotchuka, yoyikidwa mchinyumba chachikoloni chomwe malinga ndi olemba mbiri ena a a Jacinto Pat.
Nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale imakhala ndi zipinda zinayi, momwe zojambula, zithunzi, zithunzi, mitundu ndi zikalata zokhudzana ndi gulu lachilengedwe motsutsana ndi aku Spain zikuwonetsedwa. M'chipinda chomaliza muli zida, mitundu ndi zikalata zomwe zikufotokoza zoyambira ndi chitukuko cha Caste War mkatikati mwa 19th century, komanso zambiri zakuyambika kwa Chan Santa Cruz. Komabe, chochititsa chidwi kwambiri patsambali ndichinthu chodziwika bwino chomwe amachita ndi magulu osiyanasiyana, kuyambira makalasi opota ndi nsalu, kuti apindule ndi chidziwitso cha osoka zakale, kwa iwo azakudya zachikhalidwe kapena magule amchigawo, kuti sungani miyambo pakati pa mibadwo yatsopano. Adatipatsa chitsanzo cha izi masana kwamvula, koma yodzaza ndi utoto chifukwa cha zokongoletsa zokongola za ovina zomwe ovina adavala ndi mbale zolemera za Mayan zomwe tidalawa.
KUMAPETO KWA NJIRA
Tinayenda ulendo wautali kuchokera ku Tihosuco, tikudutsa mzinda wa Valladolid, m'chigawo cha Yucatán, ndikudutsa ku Cobá kukafika ku Tulum. Tinabwereranso koyambira, koma tisanapite ku Puerto Aventuras, tchuthi ndi chitukuko chamalonda chomwe chidamangidwa mozungulira marina okha ku Riviera Maya, ndipo komwe amawonetsa chiwonetsero chabwino ndi dolphin. Palinso Cultural and Polyreligious Center, malo okhawo m'derali, komanso CEDAM, Nautical Museum. Kuti tigone usikuwo, tinabwerera ku Playa del Carmen, komwe usiku womaliza waulendo womwe tinakhala ku hotelo ya Los Itzaes, titadya chakudya cham'nyanja ku La Casa del Agua- Mosakayikira, njirayi nthawi zonse imatisiya tikufuna kudziwa zambiri, Tikutsimikiziranso kuti Riviera Maya imasunga zovuta zingapo m'nkhalango zake, cenotes, mapanga ndi magombe, kuti zizipereka Mexico yopanda malire nthawi zonse.
MBIRI YOCHEPA
Pakufika kwa atsamunda aku Spain, dziko la Mayan m'chigawo cham'chigawo cha Quintana Roo lidagawika m'mizinda kapena zigawo zinayi kuyambira kumpoto mpaka kumwera: Ecab, Cochua, Uaymil ndi Chactemal. Ku Cochua kunali anthu omwe tsopano ndi a Felipe Carrillo Puerto, monga Chuyaxche, Polyuc, Kampocolche, Chunhuhub, Tabi ndi likulu lomwe linali ku Tihosuco, kale ku Jo'otsuuk. Komanso ku Huaymil amadziwika ndi mipando ya Mayan ku Bahía del Espíritu Santo komanso mumzinda womwe tsopano ndi Felipe Carrillo Puerto.
Adalamulidwa ndi a Spanish Spanish Montejo, mu 1544 gawoli lidalandidwa, chifukwa chake mbadwa zidagonjera dongosolo la encomienda. Izi zidachitika nthawi ya Colony ndi Independence, mpaka pa Julayi 30, 1847 adapandukira ku Tepich motsogozedwa ndi Cecilio Chí, kenako ndi Jacinto Pat ndi atsogoleri ena am'deralo, kuyambira pa Nkhondo ya Caste yomwe idakhala zaka 80 pa warpath yolimbana ndi ma Mayan aku peninsula ya Yucatecan. Munthawi imeneyi, Chan Santa Cruz adakhazikitsidwa, malo okhala a Talking Cross, omwe mbiri yawo yopembedza ndiyopatsa chidwi: mu 1848 José Ma. mothandizidwa ndi katswiri wolankhula mawu anatumiza zigawenga kuti apitilize nkhondo yawo. Pakapita nthawi, tsambali lidadziwika kuti Chan Santa Cruz, yemwe pambuyo pake adzatchedwa Felipe Carrillo Puerto ndipo adzakhala mpando waboma.
Gwero Mexico Yosadziwika No. 333 / November 2004
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