Kutsatira njira yaomwe ofufuza ndi amishonale omwe adapanga njira zoyambirira kudera la Baja California, ulendowu wochokera ku Mexico wosadziwika udayamba mbali yomweyo, poyamba wapansi kenako njinga, kuti amalize kuyenda pa kayak. Apa tili ndi gawo loyamba lazomwezi.
Kutsatira njira yaomwe ofufuza ndi amishonale omwe adapanga njira zoyambirira kudera la Baja California, ulendowu wochokera ku Mexico wosadziwika udayamba mbali yomweyo, poyamba wapansi kenako njinga, kuti amalize kuyenda pa kayak. Apa tili ndi gawo loyamba lazomwezi.
Tidayamba izi kuti titsatire mapazi a omwe adafufuza zakale ku Baja California, ngakhale tidali ndi zida zamasewera zamakono.
Kuchuluka kwa ngale mu doko la La Paz kunali kosatheka kwa Hernán Cortés ndi amalinyero ake, omwe adayamba ulendo wawo kudera la Baja California pa Meyi 3 mu 1535. Zombo zitatu zomwe zidakhala ndi anthu pafupifupi 500 zidabwera kudzakhala kumeneko kwa zaka ziwiri. , mpaka zopinga zosiyanasiyana, kuphatikizapo chidani cha a Pericúes ndi a Guaycuras, zidawakakamiza kuti achoke m'derali. Pambuyo pake, mu 1596, Sebastián Vizcaíno anayenda m'mphepete mwa nyanja ya kumadzulo, ndipo chifukwa cha izi adatha kupanga mapu oyamba a Baja California, omwe ankagwiritsidwa ntchito ndi maJesuit kwa zaka mazana awiri. Chifukwa chake, mu 1683 Abambo Kino adakhazikitsa ntchito ya San Bruno, woyamba mwa mamishoni makumi awiri kudera lonselo.
Pazifukwa za mbiriyakale, zochitika komanso nyengo, tidaganiza zopanga maulendo oyamba kum'mwera kwa chilumba. Ulendowu udachitika m'magawo atatu; yoyamba (yomwe yafotokozedwa m'nkhaniyi) idachitika wapansi, yachiwiri ndi njinga zamapiri ndipo yachitatu ndi kayak panyanja.
Katswiri wina wamderali anatiuza za njira yodutsa yomwe amishonale achiJesuit adatsata kuchokera ku La Paz kupita ku Loreto, ndipo ndi lingaliro loti tidziwenso msewuwo, tidayamba kukonzekera ulendowu.
Mothandizidwa ndi mamapu akale ndi INEGI, komanso zolemba za Jesuit, tidapeza ranchería de Primera Agua, pomwe kusiyana komwe kumachokera ku La Paz kumatha. Pakadali pano kuyenda kwathu kumayamba.
Zinali zofunikira kuyimba kangapo kudzera pawailesi ya La Paz kuti alumikizane ndi wosakwanira m'derali yemwe angapeze abulu komanso amadziwa njira. Tidapanga uthengawo nthawi ya 4 koloko masana, pomwe asodzi aku San Evaristo amalumikizana wina ndi mnzake kuti anene kuchuluka kwa nsomba zomwe ali nazo komanso kudziwa ngati angatenge mankhwala tsiku lomwelo. Pomaliza tidalumikizana ndi Nicolás, yemwe adavomera kudzakumana nafe masana tsiku lotsatira ku Primera Agua. Mothandizidwa ndi Centro Comercial Californiano timapeza chakudya chochuluka, ndipo mothandizidwa ndi Baja Expeditions ochokera ku Tim Means, timanyamula chakudya m'mabokosi apulasitiki kuti timangirire abulu. Pomaliza tsiku lonyamuka linafika, tinakwera ma java khumi ndi awiri mgalimoto ya Tim ndipo titayenda fumbi la maola anayi, tikumenya mitu yathu, tinafika ku Primera Agua: nyumba zina zomata zokhala ndi madenga a makatoni ndi dimba laling'ono linali chinthu chokha chomwe chinalipo, kupatula mbuzi zam'deralo. "Amachokera ku Monterrey, Nuevo León, kudzagula nyama zathu," adatiuza. Mbuzi ndizokhazo zomwe zimawapezetsa chuma.
Chakumapeto kwa tsiku lomwe tinayamba kuyenda m'njira ya amishonale achiJesuit. Otsitsira, Nicolás ndi womuthandizira Juan Méndez, adapitilira ndi abulu; kenako John, waku America wofufuza miyala, Remo, yemwenso ndi waku America komanso womanga ku Todos Santos; Eugenia, mkazi yekhayo amene analimba mtima kutsutsa dzuwa lotentha komanso kuzunzidwa komwe kunatiyembekezera panjira, ndipo pamapeto pake Alfredo ndi ine, atolankhani ochokera ku Mexico osadziwika, omwe nthawi zonse amafuna kujambula chithunzi chabwino, tidatsalira.
Poyamba njirayo inali yosiyanitsidwa bwino, popeza anthu am'deralo amagwiritsa ntchito kufunafuna nkhuni ndikunyamula ziweto, koma pang'ono ndi pang'ono idazimiririka mpaka tidadzipeza tidayenda kudutsa dzikolo. Mthunzi wazomera ndi cacti sizinakhale ngati pobisalira padzuwa, chifukwa chake tidapitilira kugubuduza miyala yofiira mpaka tapeza mtsinje womwe modabwitsa udali ndi madzi. Abulu, omwe samakonda kupanga masiku olemera chonchi, adadzigwetsa pansi. Chakudyacho chinali chosavuta pano komanso paulendo wonsewu: masangweji a tuna ndi apulo. Sitinakwanitse kubweretsa mitundu ina ya chakudya chifukwa timafunikira malo oti tizinyamula madziwo.
Panalibe chilichonse chotiuza kuti iyi inali njira ya amishonale, koma titasanthula mamapu tidazindikira kuti inali njira yosavuta, yopanda zokwera ndi zotsika.
Kutentha, tinafika patebulo ku San Francisco, komwe tidapeza mayendedwe a nswala. Abuluwo, osakhalanso onyamula katundu, anathawa kukafunafuna chakudya, ndipo ife, titagona pansi, sitinavomereze kukonza chakudya chamadzulo.
Tinkakhala ndi nkhawa nthawi zonse ndi madzi, chifukwa malita makumi asanu ndi limodzi omwe abulu amanyamula anali kutha msanga.
Kuti tipeze mwayi kuzizira kwam'mawa, timamanga msasa mwachangu momwe tingathere, ndipo ndichifukwa choti kuyenda kwa maola khumi pansi pa kunyezimira kwadzikoli ndi vuto lalikulu.
Tidadutsa pambali pa phanga ndikupitilira msewu tidakumana ndi zigwa za Kakiwi: chigwa chomwe chimayenda makilomita 5 kuchokera kumadzulo kupita kummawa ndi 4.5 km kuchokera kumwera mpaka kumpoto, komwe tidatenga. Matawuni ozungulira chigwa ichi adasiyidwa zaka zoposa zitatu zapitazo. Malo omwe anali mwayi wapadera wobzala tsopano ndi nyanja yowuma komanso yopanda kanthu. Titachoka m'tawuni yomaliza yomwe ili m'mphepete mwa nyanjayi, tidalandiridwa ndi kamphepo kayaziyazi kochokera ku Nyanja ya Cortez, yomwe kutalika kwake ndi 600 m titha kukhala mosangalala. Pansipa, pang'ono kumpoto, mumatha kuwona munda wa Los Dolores, malo omwe timafuna kukafikako.
Malo otsetsereka omwe anali ozungulira pafupi ndi mapiriwo adatifikitsa ku oasis "Los Burros". Pakati pa mitengo ya kanjedza komanso pafupi ndi madzi, Nicolás adatidziwitsa anthu, omwe anali achibale akutali.
Kulimbana ndi abulu kuti asagwere pansi, masana kugwa. Masitepe omwe tidatenga pamchenga wosasunthika, m'mitsinje, anali pang'onopang'ono. Tinkadziwa kuti tili pafupi, chifukwa tili pamwamba pa mapiriwo titawona mabwinja a munda wa Los Dolores. Pomaliza, koma mumdima, tinapeza mpanda wa munda wowetera ziweto. Lucio, mnzake wa Nicolás, wotidalira, anatilandira m'nyumba, yomanga kuyambira mzaka zapitazi.
Pofunafuna amishonale achiJesuit, tinayenda makilomita atatu kulowera kumadzulo kukafika ku Los Dolores mission, yomwe idakhazikitsidwa mu 1721 ndi bambo Guillén, omwe adayambitsa njira yoyamba yopita ku La Paz. Nthawi imeneyo malowa adapumitsa anthu omwe amachokera ku Loreto kupita kunyanjayo.
Pofika mu 1737 Abambo a Lambert, Hostell, ndi a Bernhart adakhazikitsanso ntchitoyi kumadzulo, mbali imodzi ya mtsinje wa La Pasión. Kuchokera pamenepo, maulendo azachipembedzo kumishoni ina m'derali adakonzedwa, monga La Concepción, La Santísima Trinidad, La Redención ndi La Resurrección. Komabe, mu 1768, pomwe mishoni ya Los Dolores inali ndi anthu 458, korona waku Spain adalamula maJesuit kuti asiye ntchito iyi.
Tidapeza mabwinja a tchalitchi. Makoma atatu omwe adamangidwa paphiri pafupi ndi mtsinjewo, ndiwo zamasamba zomwe banja la Lucio lidabzala komanso phanga, lomwe chifukwa chakapangidwe kake ndi kukula kwake likadakhala chipinda chapansi pa amishonale. Ngati lero, popeza sinakhalepo ndi mvula kuyambira: zaka zitatu zapitazo, ikadali malo opezekabe, munthawi yomwe maJesuit adakhalamo iyenera kuti idali paradaiso.
Kuchokera pano, kuchokera ku famu ya Los Dolores, tidazindikira kuti bwenzi lathu Nicolás sadziwa njira. Sanatiuze, koma pamene timayenda m'njira zosiyana ndi zomwe tinakonza pamapu, zinawonekeratu kuti sanapeze njirayo. Choyamba timamatira kuphiri, 2 km kulowera, kenako pamwala wamiyala, pafupi ndi pomwe pamawonongeka mafunde, tinayenda mpaka tapeza mpata. Kunali kovuta kuyenda m'mbali mwa nyanja; abulu, owopsedwa ndi madzi, adayesa kupeza njira yawo pakati pa cacti, akutaya ma Java onse. Mapeto ake, aliyense wa ife adatsiriza kukoka bulu.
Kusiyanako kuli koyipa kwambiri kotero kuti palibe galimoto ya 4 x 4 yomwe ingadutse. Koma kwa ife, ngakhale ndimamva kuwawa msana komanso zala zakuthwa, zinali zotonthoza. Tinali titayamba kale kuyenda bwino. Titayenda makilomita 28 molunjika kuchokera ku Los Dolores tinaganiza zoyimitsa msasa.
Sitinasowe tulo, koma tsiku lililonse tikadzuka panali ndemanga kuchokera ku Romeo, Eugenia komanso ngakhale zanga za zowawa zosiyanasiyana zomwe tidali nazo mthupi lathu chifukwa chakulimbikira.
Kumangirira katundu pa abulu kumatitengera ola limodzi, ndipo pachifukwa chomwechi tinaganiza zopitabe. Kutali tidatha kuwona nyumba yansanjika ziwiri kuyambira mzaka zapitazi, pozindikira kuti tawuni ya Tambabiche inali pafupi.
Anthu anatilandila mokoma mtima. Tidali ndi khofi mnyumba imodzi yamakatoni yomwe idazungulira nyumbayo, adatiuza kuti a Donaciano, atapeza ndi kugulitsa ngale yayikulu, adasamukira ku Tambabiche ndi banja lawo. Kumeneko anali ndi nyumba yaikulu yansanjika ziŵiri yomangidwa kuti apitirize kufunafuna ngale.
Doña Epifania, mayi wamkulu kwambiri mtawuniyi komanso womaliza kukhala m'nyumba ya Donaciano, monyadira adatiwonetsa zodzikongoletsera zake: mphete ziwiri ndi mphete yaimvi. Zachidziwikire chuma chosungidwa bwino.
Onse ndi abale akutali a woyambitsa tawuniyi. Tikuyendera nyumba kuti tidziwe zambiri za mbiri yawo, tidakumana ndi Juan Manuel, "El Diablo", munthu wamtundu wakuda komanso wopunduka, yemwe ndi milomo yokhota adatiwuza za usodzi komanso momwe adapezera malowa. "Mkazi wanga," adatero mopanda mantha, "ndi mwana wamkazi wa Doña Epifania ndipo ndimakhala pafamu ya San Fulano, ndimakonda kugwira wamwamuna wanga ndipo patsiku limodzi anali pano. Sanandikonde kwambiri, koma ndinakakamira ”. Tinali ndi mwayi wokumana naye chifukwa sitinakhulupirire Nicolás. Pamtengo wabwino, "El Diablo" adavomera kutiperekeza patsiku lathu lomaliza.
Tinathawira ku Punta Prieta, pafupi ndi Tambabiche. Nicolás ndi womuthandizira anatiphikira chakudya chokoma kwambiri.
Nthawi ya 10 koloko m'mawa, ndikupita panjira, wotitsogolera watsopano adawonekera. Kuti mufike ku Agua Verde, munayenera kudutsa pakati pa mapiri, njira zinayi zazikulu, monga gawo lamapiri lodziwika bwino. "El Diablo", yemwe sanafune kubwereranso, adatiwonetsa njira yomwe idakwera padoko ndikubwerera ku panga yake. Titawoloka, tidakumananso ndi iye ndipo zochitika zomwezo zidabwerezedwa; Chifukwa chake tidadutsa famu ya Carrizalito, San Francisco ndi San Fulano kupita ku Agua Verde, komwe tidafika titakakamiza abulu kudutsa mbali ya phiri.
Kuti tichoke pafamu ya San Fulano, tinayenda kwa maola awiri mpaka titafika m'tawuni ya Agua Verde, kuchokera kumeneko tinatsatira njinga yamapiri. Koma nkhani imeneyi ipitilira m'nkhani ina yomwe idzafalitsidwe m'magazini yomweyi.
Titayenda makilomita 90 m'masiku asanu, tidapeza kuti njira yomwe amishonalewa adagwiritsa ntchito idachotsedwa m'mbiri, koma imatha kutsukidwa ndikulumikiza utumikirowu ndi nthaka.
Gwero: Mexico Yosadziwika No. 273 / Novembala 1999
