Ndi zovala ziti zomwe zidagwiritsidwa ntchito ku Mexico munthawi yofunikayi m'mbiri yake? Mexico Yosadziwika ikuwululira izi ...
Ku Mexico, mafashoni adayandikira m'malo momufotokozera, popanda njira zoyenera zomwe zimaganiziridwa pagulu. Ichi ndichifukwa chake ndikofunikira kunena kuti, pamaphunziro amtsogolo, kuwonetseredwa kwavalidwe lazovala makamaka pagulu lazikhalidwe zomwe zimakhudza chikhalidwe ndi malingaliro. Zachidziwikire, ndikofunikira kuyika nkhaniyi mkati mwa moyo watsiku ndi tsiku wa anthu aku Mexico a m'zaka za zana la khumi ndi chisanu ndi chinayi m'magulu onse, kuti timvetsetse bwino.
Kulongosola kwatsatanetsatane kwa mawonekedwe a zovala zodzoza, makamaka aku Europe, zomwe zimasinthidwa ndi chilengedwe chathu sikokwanira; M'malo mwake, ndibwino kuti tiganizire zavalidwe logwira ntchito kumapeto kwa zaka za zana la 19 ku Mexico, monga zotsatira ziwiri. Kumbali imodzi, lingaliro, lingaliro lalikulu la akazi, chithunzi chawo ndi momwe amagwirira ntchito m'magulu onse azikhalidwe, zomwe zimayendera limodzi ndi zomwe zikuchitika m'mabuku ndi zaluso. Kumbali inayi, kuchepa kwa ntchito yopanga nsalu mdziko lathu komanso kuthekera koitanitsa nsalu ndi zida zina zomwe zimakwaniritsa zovala zapamwamba komanso zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri. Munthawi ya Porfiriato, makampani opanga nsalu adakula, ngakhale zopanga zake zimayang'ana kwambiri pakupanga nsalu za thonje ndi bulangeti.
Mabulauzi, mabodeti, malaya, ma corsets, ma buluu azingwe, ma petticoat angapo, crinolines, crinolines, camisoles, camisoles, frú, frú silk, pouf, bustle, ndi ena; zovala zambirimbiri zoyera, thonje kapena zovala za nsalu, zomwe zidapangidwa kuti azimayi azisangalatsa. Zida zosiyanasiyana monga maambulera, zipewa, zofiira, makola a zingwe, magolovesi, matumba, nsapato, nsapato za akakolo, ndi zina zambiri.
Mu theka lachiwiri la zaka za zana la 19, lingaliro lomwe linali ponseponse linali loti akazi, kudzera mu kupezeka kwawo, zokongoletsera zawo ndi zovala zawo, amapatsa amuna ulemu ndipo anali chitsanzo chamoyo cha kupambana kwachuma, chofunikira pakati pa omwe amatchedwa "anthu a tsitsi ".
Pambuyo pa ufulu wodziyimira pawokha, motsogozedwa ndi Napoleon, madiresi opapatiza komanso amadzi a nthawi ya Iturbide Empire adayamba pang'onopang'ono kupitilira "mafashoni" momwe akazi anali asanagwiritsepo nsalu zochuluka chonchi. Marquesa Calderón de la Barca adatchulapo "madiresi olemera" ngakhale achikale achikale omwe azimayi aku Mexico adavala, omwe amadziwika ndi chuma cha zodzikongoletsera zawo.
Pakati pa 1854 ndi 1868, makamaka pazaka za Ufumu wa Maximilian, ma crinolines ndi ma crinolines adafika pachimake, zomwe sizinangokhala zomangika zothandizira siketi mpaka mita zitatu m'mimba mwake pafupifupi mita makumi atatu mkati nsalu. Chithunzi cha mkaziyo, ndiye, ndi fano losafikirika lomwe limasunga malo ake patali. Zosatheka kukhala zachikondi, zosokoneza komanso zosasangalatsa mosiyana ndi zenizeni za tsiku ndi tsiku: lingalirani zovuta zazikulu zokhala kapena kusunthasuntha, komanso kusapeza bwino pamoyo watsiku ndi tsiku.
Antonio García Cubas, m'buku lake labwino kwambiri la The Book of My Memories, adanenanso za mafashoni ochokera ku Paris omwe "adawonetsera azimayi ku mikangano ndi manyazi". Adafotokozera zomwe zimatchedwa "crinoline" ngati chida chokhwima chopangidwa ndi chinsalu chonyentchera kapena chokulirapo ndipo crinoline anali "wotsatira" wopangidwa "waziphuphu zinayi kapena zisanu zazitsulo zazitsulo, kuyambira zazing'ono mpaka zazikulu ndikulumikizidwa ndi nthiti za chinsalu ". Wolemba yemweyo adalongosola mwachisomo zovuta zomwe crinoline "wosakhulupirika" adapereka: idadzuka pang'onopang'ono, kuwonekera m'madzi, kuwulula mkatimo ndikukhala "chipinda chosazindikira" chifukwa cha mphepo. Ku zisudzo ndi zisudzo, komanso pamisonkhano ndi maphwando amadzulo, khosi limalimbikitsidwa, lopanda mapewa osavala, mawonekedwe amanja ndi kutalika kwa m'chiuno sizinasinthidwe. Makamaka, kuzungulira kwa thupi kunkawonetsedwa pamakoma opatsa, pomwe aku Mexico anali ocheperako, ngati tingawafananize ndi momwe amathandizira pankhaniyi ku khothi ku France la Eugenia de Montijo.
Masana, makamaka popita ku misa, azimayiwo adachepetsa kavalidwe kawo ndipo adavala zovala zaku Spain ndi zotchinga za silika, womaliza, kapena wokutira mpango wa silika. García Cubas akunena kuti palibe amene amapita kutchalitchi ndi chipewa. Ponena za zida izi, wolemba adawatanthauzira kuti "miphika yodzadza ndi maluwa, nyumba zomangira mbalame ndi zida zosamveka zokhala ndi maliboni, nthenga ndi mapiko akhwangwala omwe azimayi amavala pamutu pawo ndipo amatchedwa zipewa."
Pofuna kutambasula madiresi, padalibe makina opanga zovala zokwanira mokwanira mdziko lathu, chifukwa chake nsalu zambiri zimatumizidwa kunja ndipo madiresi amapangidwa potengera mitundu yaku Europe, makamaka ya ku Paris, ndi osoka kapena Zovala zachilengedwe. Panali malo ogulitsira omwe eni ake aku France adagulitsa mitunduyo pafupifupi mtengo wokwanira kanayi kuposa ku Paris, chifukwa cha ntchito zakunja zomwe zidawonjezeredwa phindu. Ndalama izi zidalipira mokondwa kokha ndi azimayi ochepa olemera.
Kumbali yawo, azimayi amtawuniyi adadzipereka kugwira ntchito - ogulitsa masamba, maluwa, zipatso, madzi, mikate, chakudya, ndikugwira ntchito, chopukusira, kusita, wochapa zovala, tamalera, buñolera ndipo ambiri ena ndi "tsitsi lawo lowongoka lakuda, mano awo oyera omwe amawonetsa mosabisa ndi kuseka kosavuta ..." - amavala zikopa ndi zikopa zazing'ono za ubweya wachikuda kapena thonje. Zodzikongoletsera zawo zinali ndi "mikanda ndi zotchingira, mphete zasiliva m'manja mwawo ndi ndolo za korali" ndi mphete zawo zagolide, zomwe zimavalanso mayi amene amapanga ma enchiladas, monga wogulitsa madzi abwino. Zachidziwikire, ngati chovala chofunikira kwambiri chinali shawl, wopangidwa ndi silika kapena thonje, omwe mtengo wake umadalira kutalika kwake, mawonekedwe am'mapeto ndi kumbuyo komwe azimayi amabisala: "amabisala pamphumi, mphuno ndi pakamwa ndikungowona maso awo oyera, monga azimayi achiarabu… ndipo ngati samawavala, amaoneka ngati amaliseche… ”Kupezeka kwa akazi achikhalidwe achi China kumawonekera, atavala" kansalu kamkati kokhala ndi zingwe zopota zaubweya m'mphepete, zomwe amazitcha nsonga za enchilada; chapitacho chidutsa china chopangidwa ndi beaver kapena silika wovekedwa ndi nthiti zamitundu yamoto kapena sequins; malaya abwino, omangidwa ndi silika kapena mikanda ... ndi shawl ya silika yomwe imaponyedwa paphewa ... ndi phazi lake lalifupi mu nsapato ya satin ... "
Zovala zachimuna, mosiyana ndi zachikazi, zimasungidwa moyenera komanso pantchito. Alimi akomweko ndi abusa omwe adawotchedwa ndi dzuwa, adavala malaya osadziwika komanso mathalauza oyera. Chifukwa chake kukula kwa zofunda za thonje zomwe mafakitale ambiri aku Mexico adakhazikika kumapeto kwa zaka za 19th.
Ponena za oweruza, zovala zawo zinali ndi "ma buluu a nswala zazitali, zokongoletsedwa m'mbali ndi mabatani asiliva ... ena amavala nsalu ndi ulusi wagolide ...", chipewa chovekedwa ndi shawl yasiliva, mapiko akulu ndi mbali zonse za galasi "mbale zina zasiliva zooneka ngati chiwombankhanga kapena golide." Anaphimba thupi lake ndi manja a Acámbaro, mtundu wa Cape, ndi serape yochokera ku Saltillo, yomwe imadziwika kuti ndiyabwino kwambiri.
Zovala zachimuna zinali zovalazo, ndi chipewa chapamwamba, malaya amkati, yunifolomu yankhondo, kapena ranchero kapena chovala cha charro. Zovala za amuna zakhalabe chimodzimodzi kuyambira pomwe Benito Juárez adagwiritsa ntchito malaya akunja komanso gulu la omasuka, omwe monyadira adasunga kuwuma kwawo ngati chizindikiro cha kuwona mtima komanso boma labwino. Mtima umenewu umafikira ngakhale kwa akazi. M'pofunikanso kukumbukira mawu osaiwalika a kalata yomwe Margarita Maza de Juárez analemba kwa mwamuna wake: "Kukongola kwanga konse kunali kavalidwe kamene munandigulira ku Monterrey zaka ziwiri zapitazo, kokhako kamene ndimakhala nako pafupipafupi komanso kamene ndimasunga kuti ndizigwiritsa ntchito ndikafunika kuchita kena kake. ulendo wa tag ... "
Pofika kumapeto kwa zaka za zana la khumi ndi chisanu ndi chinayi, makina opanga nsalu komanso kutsika kwa mtengo wa nsalu za thonje, zomwe zikuphatikizidwa ndi chidwi chobisa ndi kubisa, zimamasula azimayi ku crinoline, koma zimawonjezera chisangalalo ndi zotsalira nsomba ya corset. Cha m'ma 1881, madiresi apamwamba azimayi aku Mexico adapangidwa ndi nsalu zosiyanasiyana, monga silika faya, ndikumakongoletsa ndi mikanda: "Amayiwo adatsutsana ndi chiuno chocheperako, chopindidwa ndi ma corsets olimba kwambiri mwakuti adatha kupuma. Anawapangitsa kukhala ofooka, opikisana ndi zingwe zambiri, ma appliqués, zopempha, ndi nsalu. Mkazi wanthawiyo anali ataphunzira komanso kusuntha moyenera ndipo mawonekedwe ake odzaza ndi zokongoletsera akuimira kukondana ”.
Cha m'ma 1895, nsalu zosiyanasiyana zidakulira silika, ma velvet, ma satini, zingwe zachikhalidwe zomwe zimatanthauza kulemera. Amayi amakhala achangu kwambiri, mwachitsanzo, kusewera masewera ena monga tenisi, gofu, kupalasa njinga komanso kusambira. Kuphatikiza apo, mawonekedwe achikazi amakhala oyengeka kwambiri.
Mitundu yayikulu ya nsalu itasowa, pafupifupi 1908 corset idamalizidwa, kotero mawonekedwe a thupi lachikazi adasinthidwa kwambiri ndipo koyambirira kwa zaka za m'ma 2000 madiresi anali osalala komanso omasuka. Maonekedwe azimayi amasintha kwambiri ndipo malingaliro awo atsopano amalengeza zaka zosintha zomwe zikubwera.
Gwero: Mexico mu Time No. 35 Marichi / Epulo 2000
