Ku Huasteca wa ku Hidalgo, m'dera lomwe anthu ambiri samakonda kuyendera Mexico, madera ena amapulumutsa kunyada kwachikhalidwe chawo cha Chinawato. Pamwamba pazikhalidwe zina za chikondwererochi, kujambula thupi kumaonekera, chikhalidwe chisanachitike ku Spain chomwe chimafika pagulu la zaluso.
Mdierekezi ndi womasuka ku Coacuilco. Masabata apitawo, ma quiquixahuitles anali atazindikira kale izi, Antonio amandiuza pamene akupaka chifuwa cha mwana wawo ndi matope otuwa. Ndikangoganiza kuti ma elves, Terencio wachikulire amawaphethira, akuyang'ana mchikwama chake ndikuwonetsa chida chamatabwa, chokhala ndi pakamwa pabango chomangidwa m'masamba a chinanazi: "iyi ndi quiquixahuitle." Amawombera. Kenako kumbukirani momwe kuchokera kuchigwa mpaka kuphiri komanso kuchokera kuphiri kupita kuchigwacho, maliro ake okoma adamveka m'mudzi uliwonse, womangidwa maunyolo, usiku ndi usiku mopitilira muyeso. Thambo lonse. Kenako adangokhala chete ndipo ichi chinali chiyambi cha ziphaso za zikondwerero za Huasteco.
Dzuwa limachulukitsa kuwala kwake kuchokera pa scree yomwe imakhala ngati gombe kutsogolo kwa mtsinje. Apa amuna asonkhana - koma ana anali oyamba kufika - kuchokera pagulu laling'ono la Coacuilco, patsinde pa phiri la emerald ndi theka la ola (wina akhoza kukhulupirira theka la dziko lapansi), pamsewu, kuchokera ku Huejutla de Reyes. Polimbikira ntchito mosangalala akuluwo amakonza inki ndipo enawo amajambula matupi awo. Zojambula zingapo za zithunzizi zosaoneka zimakhala zofanana; mwansanje amafunafuna chiyambi. Terencio ali wokonda kuwulula zinsinsi ndipo amandibweretsa ine m'mphepete mwa mtsinje wa Calabozo pomwe zidebe zimapanga utawaleza. Malasha, mwala wa tepate, makungwa a mtengo wa pemuche ndi dongo, osungunuka mpaka kufika, perekani mitundu. "Panjira ya makolo athu," alengeza monyadira, asanavomereze kuti palinso utoto wa vinyl. "Koma osatinso ku Huejutla, eh? Kumeneko aulesi anaiwala, kumeneko amagula zonse m'masitolo ".
Wosakanizidwa ndi mafuta anyama, madzi kapenanso mafuta amoto owotcha, ma pigment ndi khungu lachiwiri la anthu lomwe limasinthidwa kukhala chimera chromatic. Kusowa? Zovala za nthenga, zipewa za makatoni ndi zikwanje zomwezo. Chifukwa chake tili ndi gulu la ma mecos omwe kulira kwawo kwachisangalalo kumakulirakulira pamene akukonzekera kuguba kupita mtawuniyi. "Pita ukatenge akazi," Juanito akunong'oneza m'khutu mwanga.
"Kwa azimayi?" Ndikubwereza mopusa. “Inde, lero ndi Lachiwiri, tsiku lathu. Adzalipirira zomwe anatichitira dzulo ”.
Ndikutalika kwa 1.40 - muyesowo umaphatikizapo chipewa chowonekera pomwe nyanga ziwiri zimatulukira - thupi lakuda ngati phula kuwunikira magulu oyera am'mbuyo osunthidwa ndi nthano "yakale", yomwe ndi mfundo, Mnyamatayo akufuula ndikulowa m'khamulo. Muyenera kufulumizitsa mayendedwe anu kuti musaphonye chiwonetsero ...
Pakati pa magawo omwe adagawana nawo, zisangalalo za Huasteca waku Hidalgo amasintha kuchokera pagulu kupita kudera lina. Amatha kukhala masiku asanu kapena atatu, amatha kukhala osangalala kwambiri kapena epicurean. Palibenso kapena sipadzakhala zikondwerero zachilengedwe, syncretic par excellence. Adadikirira miyezi ingapo - ndichifukwa chake ma Quiquixahuitles amasangalala pakutsa kusakhazikika - amadzutsa, monga momwe tingayembekezere, chisangalalo, magule, kususuka ndi zovala. Pakadali pano zodziwika bwino zimayamba: dera, lokhala ndi anthu amtundu wa Nahuatl, limatsitsimutsanso miyambo isanachitike ku Puerto Rico povala - mwatsatanetsatane, mwatsatanetsatane - monga ankhondo akale omwe masiku ano amatchedwa Mecos.
Zida ndi njira
Juanito adagwirizananso ndi apolisi. Nkhondo, amalowa ndikusiya nyumbazo, ndikupita ndi akaziwo kumalo omwe apangidwa ngati ndende. Kuuma kwake ndi kuchita bwino kwake kumangowonekera. Munthu akangowona, zofooka zimapezeka. Kuchenjera kwa akazi amadziwa momwe angadzitetezere ndi tamales wokoma wa zacahuil, zitsamba zokhala ndi nyemba ndi cilantro, mum magalasi a pulque. Iwo, ndi mtima wofooka ndi m'mimba, amapereka mosavuta, kuyiwala kubwezera komanso kuti zakudya zoterezi zidapangidwa chifukwa cha ndalama zawo zowombolera mawa. Malinga ndi kulumbira kwa Terencio, Lolemba - tsiku la amayi - amayi, akazi, ndi ana akazi anali ndi luso logwira amuna. Adalowa m'nyumba akuvina, amakhala ndi banja ndipo, panthawi yosayembekezereka, adamangidwa. Kapenanso mopanda manyazi adawaponya m'misewu, kuwayika ndi utoto kuti awatsogolere, pansi pa kuseka kwanyumba, kupita kumalo omwe sakanatha kunyamuka mpaka khumi ndi awiri. Ndipo kuti, mutalipira chindapusa chomwe thumba lake limapita ku tamales.
Ku Coacuilco samachezeredwa kawirikawiri, ngakhale ochokera m'matawuni a m'derali nthawi yachisangalalo. Mwina ndichifukwa chake samva kuti ali ndi udindo wokhala ndi zilembo zolimba ndikuphatikiza machaputala a zikondwerero momasuka. M'kuphethira kwa diso, magulu ankhondo awiri osakanizikana akuyang'anizana, pamizere yofananira yomwe iphatikizana pankhondo yoseketsa yomwe mphotho yake ndi mbendera ya zikondwerero, chizindikiro cha zoyipa.
Akatswiri a zachikhalidwe cha anthu ali ndi nkhani yokambirana ngati amakumbukira za kulimbana kwa "Amori ndi Akhrisitu" omwe adabwera kuchokera ku Spain kapena ngati cholowa choyambirira. Mulimonsemo, nkhondoyi imatha mwadzidzidzi momwe idayambira ndipo gululi limakhala gulu lomwe limayenda nyumba ndi nyumba kukakhazikitsa oyandikana nawo omwe akulira "akuuluka". Ndiyeno kwa wina, ndi kwa wina. Thandizo lamtengo wapatali la Terence limafotokoza chisangalalo chake: "Ndi mwambo wothamangitsa ziwanda komanso tsoka kwa munthuyo, kuti azisangalala chaka chonse. Umu ndi momwe adzapitilira mpaka atatopa kapena mpaka pulasitiki ithere ... "
Sindidikira kuti ndione. Ndinatsanzika mwanzeru ndikutenga galimoto kuti ndiyende mtunda wamakilomita omwe adzanditengere ku Jaltocan. Komanso tawuni yamapiri, koma yokulirapo, yokhala ndi nyumba zosanjikiza ziwiri ndi mashopu. Mwina izi zikufotokozera zakusiyana pakati pamadyerero awo. Pali zoyandama ndi mfumukazi ndi magulu, koma mecos akadali otsogolera. Pabwaloli, pansi pa chitsulo chachitsulo ndikumveka kwa gulu la oyang'anira tauni, amuna ndi akazi ovala mitundu isanachitike ku Spain, akuyembekezera kuweruzidwa kwa oweruza kuti azisangalala kwambiri. Kuwawona chonchi, ndi zojambula zawo, matumba, mikanda ndi zipolopolo, wina amamva ngati mboni yamwayi yachikhalidwe chomwe chapulumutsidwa ku zovuta za nthawi. Bernal Díaz del Castillo mwiniwake sayenera kuwona zokongola kwambiri.
