Kuzama kwakukulu kwa Sinforosa ndi 1 830 m pamalingaliro ake otchedwa Cumbres de Huérachi, ndipo pansi pake pali Río Verde, malo ofunikira kwambiri ku Río Fuerte.
Kuzama kwakukulu kwa Sinforosa ndi 1 830 m pamalingaliro ake otchedwa Cumbres de Huérachi, ndipo pansi pake pali Río Verde, malo ofunikira kwambiri ku Río Fuerte.
Tikamva za zigwa kapena zigumula ku Sierra Tarahumara, Copper Canyon yotchuka imabwera m'maganizo mwathu; Komabe, m'chigawochi muli zigwa zina ndipo Copper Canyon si yakuya kwambiri, kapena yochititsa chidwi. Ulemuwo umagawana ndi maphokoso ena.
Malinga ndi momwe ndimaonera, chimodzi mwazinthu zokongola kwambiri m'mapiri onsewa ndi chigwa chaching'ono chotchedwa Sinforosa, pafupi ndi tawuni ya Guachochi. Akazi a Bernarda Holguín, omwe amadziwika bwino pantchito zokopa alendo m'derali, awatcha kuti " mfumukazi ya maphwando ”. Nthawi yoyamba yomwe ndinaziwona, malinga ndi malingaliro ake ku Cumbres de Sinforosa, ndinadabwitsidwa ndi mawonekedwe osangalatsa komanso kuzama kwa malo ake, osafanana ndi chilichonse chomwe ndidawona m'mapiri mpaka nthawi imeneyo. Chimodzi mwazinthu zodabwitsa pamalo ake ndikuti ndi yopapatiza kwambiri poyerekeza ndi kuzama kwake, ndichifukwa chake imawonekera padziko lonse lapansi. Kuzama kwakukulu kwa Sinforosa ndi 1 830 m pamalingaliro ake otchedwa Cumbres de Huérachi, ndipo pansi pake mumadutsa Mtsinje wa Verde, womwe ndi wofunika kwambiri mumtsinje wa Fuerte.
Pambuyo pake ndidakhala ndi mwayi wolowa Sinforosa kudzera m'mabwalo ake osiyanasiyana. Imodzi mwa njira zokongola kwambiri zolowera canyon ndi kudzera ku Cumbres de Sinforosa, komwe njira imayambira yomwe imatsika ndikupanga ma curve ambiri pakati pa malo okhala ndi makoma owongoka. M'makilomita opitilira 6 okha, omwe amakhala ndi maola pafupifupi 4, mumatsika kuchokera ku nkhalango ya paini ndi thundu ya dera lowuma kwambiri komanso lotentha kumunsi kwa chigwa. Njirayo imatsikira pakati pa zigwa zakuya kwambiri ndipo imadutsa pafupi ndi mathithi osadziwika a mathithi a Rosalinda, pomwe mathithi ake apamwamba kwambiri ndi 80 m ndi imodzi mwamapiri okongola kwambiri m'derali.
Zomwe zidandidabwitsa nthawi yoyamba yomwe ndidatsata njirayi ndikupeza, pansi pogona, miyala yaying'ono ndi nyumba yamiyala yamabanja aku Tarahumara omwe, kuphatikiza ndikukhala kumalo akutali, anali ndi mawonekedwe owoneka bwino . Kudzipatula komwe Tarahumara ambiri akukhalabe ndikodabwitsa.
Panthawi ina ndinapita ku Baqueachi, pafupi ndi Cumbres de Huérachi; Kudzera pano canyon yotsatira yodzala ndi zomera zambiri imapezeka pomwe mitengo yazipatso imasakanikirana ndi pitayas ndi mitengo yamkuyu wamtchire, mabango ndi zitsamba zaminga. Ndi nkhalango yochititsa chidwi kuti chifukwa chosafikirika imasunga mitengo ina yamtengo wapatali komanso táscates yomwe ili yopitilira 40 m, zomwe sizikupezeka m'mapiri. Pakati pa zomera zonsezi pamakhala mtsinje wokongola kwambiri womwe uli ndi maiwe okongola, mathithi ndi mathithi ang'onoang'ono, omwe amakopa, mosakaika konse, ndi Piedra Agujerada, popeza ngalande yamtsinjewo imadutsa pa kabowo pa thanthwe lalikulu ndikubwerera pansipa mu mawonekedwe amadzi okwezeka pafupifupi 5 m of fall, mkati mwa kabowo kakang'ono kozunguliridwa ndi zomera.
Njira ina yosangalatsa ndikuyamba ku Cumbres de Huérachi, popeza ili ndi malingaliro owoneka bwino kwambiri a Sinforosa. Imeneyi ndi njira yomwe ili ndi kufanana kwakukulu kwa phiri lonse pang'ono pang'ono: mu 9 km mumatsika 1 830 m, gawo lakuya kwambiri la chigwa ichi. Panjira iyi mumayenda maola 6 kapena 7 mpaka mukafika kudera la Huérachi, m'mbali mwa Mtsinje wa Verde, komwe kuli minda ya zipatso ya mango, mapapaya ndi nthochi.
Pali njira zosiyanasiyana momwe mungapitire kumtsinje, mbali zonse za Guarochi komanso mbali ya "La otra sierra" (monga anthu aku Guachochi amazitchulira kutsidya lina la chigwa); onse ndi okongola komanso owoneka bwino.
PATSOGOLO LA BARRANCA
Mosakayikira, chochititsa chidwi kwambiri ndikudutsa chigwa kuchokera pansi, kutsatira mtsinje wa Verde. Ndi ochepa okha omwe apita ulendowu, ndipo mosakayikira ndi imodzi mwanjira zokongola kwambiri.
Kuyambira zaka za zana la 18, ndikulowa kwa amishonale kudera lino, chigwa ichi chimadziwika ndi dzina loti Sinforosa. Zolemba zakale kwambiri zomwe ndidapeza zakuyendera canyon ili m'buku la El México Desconocido lolembedwa ndi munthu waku Norway Carl Lumholtz, yemwe adalifufuza zaka 100 zapitazo, mwina kutsika kuchokera ku Cumbres de Sinforosa kupita ku Santa Ana kapena San Miguel. Lumholtz amatchula kuti San Carlos, ndipo zidamutengera milungu itatu kuti ayende gawoli.
Pambuyo pa Lumholtz ndidangopeza mbiri yakuchepa kwaposachedwa. Mu 1985 Carlos Rangel adatsika kuchokera ku "the other sierra" kuyambira ku Baborigame ndikudutsa ku Cumbres de Huérachi; Carlos adangodutsa chigwa. Mu 1986 American Richar Fisher ndi anthu ena awiri adayesa kuwoloka gawo lotsetsereka la Sinforosa ndi raft koma adalephera; Tsoka ilo, m'nkhani yake, Fisher sakusonyeza komwe adayambira ulendo wake kapena komwe adayambira.
Pambuyo pake, mu 1995, mamembala a Speleology Group ochokera ku Cuauhtémoc City, Chihuahua, adayenda masiku atatu pansi pamtsinjewo, kutsika kudzera ku Cumbres de Sinforosa ndikudutsa ku San Rafael. Kuphatikiza pa izi, ndaphunzirapo mwina kuwoloka maulendo ena awiri komwe magulu akunja amapita pamtsinje, koma palibe mbiri yonena zaulendo wawo.
Sabata la Meyi 5 mpaka 11, 1996, Carlos Rangel ndi ine, limodzi ndi owongolera awiri abwino kwambiri mderali, Luis Holguín ndi Rayo Bustillos, tidayenda makilomita 70 kudera lotsetsereka la Sinforosa, tikutsikira ku Cumbres kuchokera ku Barbechitos ndikudutsa ku Cumbres de Huérachi.
Tsiku loyamba tinafika pamtsinje wa Verde tikudutsa njira yokhotakhota ya Barbechitos, yomwe ndi yolemetsa kwambiri. Timapeza malo akuluakulu omwe nthawi zina amakhala ndi Tarahumara. Timasamba mumtsinje ndikuwona madamu osavuta, otchedwa tapestes, omwe Tarahumara amamanga kuti azisodza, chifukwa mphaka, mojarra ndi matalote amapezeka mderalo. Tinaonanso mtundu wina wamabango womwe amaugwiritsanso ntchito posodza. Chomwe chinandidabwitsa ndikuti Lumholtz amafotokoza njira yomweyi yosodza ngati Tarahumara; Kenako ndinamva kuti tikulowa m'dziko lomwe silinasinthe kwenikweni mzaka zana zapitazi.
Masiku otsatirawa tinayenda pakati pa zipupa za canyon, kutsatira mtsinjewu, pakati pa miyala yamitundu yonse. Tinawoloka mtsinjewo ndi madzi mpaka m'zifuwa zathu ndipo tinkadumpha pakati pamiyala kangapo. Kuyenda kunali kolemetsa komanso kutentha kwakukulu komwe kumamveka kale munthawiyo (mbiri yayikulu inali 43ºC mumthunzi). Komabe, tinasangalala ndi imodzi mwa misewu yochititsa chidwi kwambiri mu seerra yonse ndipo mwina ku Mexico, yozunguliridwa ndi makoma akuluakulu amiyala omwe pafupifupi kilomita imodzi kutalika kwake, komanso maiwe okongola ndi malo omwe mtsinje ndi chigwawo adatipatsa.
MALO OKONZEKA KWAMBIRI
Chimodzi mwa izo chinali malo omwe Mtsinje wa Guachochi umalumikizana ndi Verde River. Pafupi pali mabwinja a munda wakale wa Sinforosa, omwe adapatsa chiphalachi dzina, ndi mlatho woyimitsa anthu kuti athe kudutsa tsidya lina pamene mtsinjewo ukukwera.
Pambuyo pake, pamalo otchedwa Epachuchi, tinakumana ndi banja la Tarahumara yemwe adachokera ku "the other sierra" kudzatenga pitayas. Mmodzi anatiuza kuti tipita masiku awiri ku Huérachi; Komabe, monga ndawonera kuti ma chabochis (monga a Tarahumara akutiuza ife omwe sitinakhalepo) timathera katatu kutalitali ngati akuyenda kulikonse kumapiri, ndinawerengera kuti tingachite masiku osachepera asanu ndi limodzi kupita ku Huérachi, ndipo zinali choncho . Awa Tarahumara anali atakhala kale pansi pamtsinjewo kwa milungu ingapo ndipo katundu wawo wokha anali thumba la pini, zina zonse zomwe amafunikira zimapezeka mwachilengedwe: chakudya, chipinda, madzi, ndi zina zambiri. Ndinamva kukhala wodabwitsa ndi zikwama zathu zolemera zolemera pafupifupi 22 kilos iliyonse.
A Tarahumara amakhulupirira kuti chilengedwe chimawapatsa zochepa chifukwa Mulungu alibe zochepa, popeza Mdyerekezi waba zina zonsezo. Komabe Mulungu amagawana nawo; Pachifukwa ichi, a Tarahumara atatiyitanitsa kuchokera pachapa chake, asanamwe chakumwa choyamba, adagawana ndi Mulungu, ndikuponya pinile pang'ono pachidindo chilichonse, chifukwa Tata Dios alinso ndi njala ndipo tiyenera kugawana zomwe amatipatsa .
Pamalo omwe timabatiza ndi dzina la Great Corner, Mtsinje wa Verde umasinthira madigiri makumi asanu ndi anayi ndikupanga bwalo lalikulu. Pali mitsinje iwiri yotsatira yomwe imadutsa mitsinje yochititsa chidwi; kunalinso kasupe wokongola momwe tidatsitsimutsa. Pafupi ndi tsambali tidaona phanga pomwe ena a Tarahumara amakhala; Unali ndi chimbudzi chake chachikulu, ndipo panja panali "coscomate" -khola lakale lomwe amapanga ndi miyala ndi matope- ndi zotsalira za malo omwe amapanga tatemado mezcal, yomwe amakonza ndikuphika mtima wamitundu ina ya agave ndipo chomwe ndi chakudya chambiri olemera. Patsogolo pa Ngodya Yaikulu tidutsa malo amiyala yayikulu ndipo tidapeza njira pakati pa mabowo, anali timisewu tating'onoting'ono ta pansi panthaka zomwe zimatipangitsa kuyenda, chifukwa nthawi zina anali pafupifupi 100 m ndipo madzi amtsinjewo adadutsa pakati pawo.
Ali panjira panali banja la Tarahumara lomwe lidabzala chilili m'mbali mwa mtsinje ndikusodza. Amasodza poizoni ndi poizoni yemwe amatcha amole, muzu wa chomeracho chomwe chimatulutsa chinthu m'madzi chomwe chimaipitsa nsombazo ndikuzigwira mosavuta. Pazingwe zina adapachika nsomba zingapo zomwe zinali zitatsegulidwa kale ndipo opanda chiwombankhanga kuti ziume.
Mphambano ya mtsinje wa San Rafael ndi mtsinje wa Verde ndiwokongola kwambiri; Pali minda yayikulu ya kanjedza kumeneko, yayikulu kwambiri yomwe ndayiwonapo ku Chihuahua, ndipo mtsinjewu umapanga mathithi atatu asanalowe mumtsinje wa Verde. Palinso ma alders ochuluka, popula, owomba nsalu, guamúchiles ndi mabango; onse atazunguliridwa mbali zonse ndi makoma ofukula a canyon.
Malo omwe mtsinjewo umapanga meander yayikulu yomwe imapangitsa 180º kutembenuka, timayitcha La Herradura. Apa pali mitsinje iwiri yochititsa chidwi kwambiri yomwe imakumana chifukwa cha makoma awo otsekedwa komanso owongoka, ndipo ndi kuwala kwa dzuwa, masomphenya omwe amawoneka osangalatsa kwa ine akuyerekezedwa. Ku La Herradura tinamanga msasa pafupi ndi dziwe lokongola ndipo usiku utalowa ndimayenera kuwona momwe mileme imayendera m'madzi akugwira udzudzu ndi tizilombo tina. Maonekedwe omwe tidabatizidwa adandidabwitsa, tidazunguliridwa ndi dziko lamakoma oyimirira pakati pamiyala yayikulu, yopangidwa ndi kugwa kwamililion.
Mtsinje wokhawo wofunikira womwe ukutsika m'chigawo chino cha "nyanja ina" ndi mtsinje wa Loera, womwe umatsika kuchokera ku Nabogame, dera lomwe lili pafupi ndi Guadalupe ndi Calvo. Kuphatikizana kwa izi ndi Green ndikodabwitsa, popeza mitsinje ikuluikulu iwiri imakumana ndikupanga maiwe akuluakulu omwe amayenera kuwoloka posambira. Tsambali ndi lokongola ndipo linali chiyambi musanafike kudera la Huérachi. Tikudutsa Loera tidamanga msasa pansi pa thanthwe lokongola la Tarahuito, mwala womwe umakwera mamita mazana angapo pakati pa chigwa. Ndi apo, kuyembekezera okwera.
Pomaliza tinafika ku Huérachi, dera lokhalo lomwe lidalipo m'mphepete mwa chigwa cha Sinforosa, popeza pakadali pano lasiyidwa ndipo ndi anthu anayi okha omwe amakhala kumeneko, atatu mwa iwo ndi ogwira ntchito ku Federal Electricity Commission, omwe tsiku lililonse amapanga ma gauges mumtsinje ndikupita kokacheza nyengo. Anthu omwe amakhala m'malo ano adaganiza zosamukira ku Cumbres de Huérachi, pafupifupi makilomita awiri kukwera chigwa, chifukwa cha nyengo yotentha kwambiri komanso kudzipatula. Tsopano, nyumba zawo zazing'ono zizunguliridwa ndi minda ya zipatso yokongola komwe mapapaya, nthochi, malalanje, mandimu, mango ndi ma avocado amapezeka.
Timasiya chigwa ndi njira yopita ku Cumbres de Huérachi, womwe ndi malo otsetsereka kwambiri pamapiri onsewa, ngati mungakwere gawo lakuya kwambiri la chigwa, Sinforosa, chomwe chili ndi dontho la pafupifupi 2 km, kukwera Ndizolemera, tidachita pafupifupi maola 7 kuphatikiza kupumula; komabe, mawonekedwe owoneka bwino amalipira kutopa kulikonse.
Nditawerenganso buku la El México Desconocido lolembedwa ndi Lumholtz, makamaka gawo lomwe amafotokoza zaulendo wa Sinforosa zaka 100 zapitazo, zidandigunda kuti zonse sizinasinthe, chigwa sichinasinthe mzaka zonsezi: pali Tarahumara ndi miyambo yawo yomweyo ndikukhala momwemo, mdziko loiwalika. Pafupifupi chilichonse chomwe Lumholtz amafotokoza ndidachiwona. Amatha kubwerera kukayendera chigwa masiku ano ndipo samazindikira kuti papita nthawi yayitali bwanji.
