Fuko laling'ono lomwe limakhala pakati pa malire a Oaxaca ndi Guerrero limafotokoza za mphamvu yomwe amasunga miyambo yawo. Koyamba, zovala zokongola zomwe zimawasiyanitsa ndizapadera.
Malo okongola a mapiri amadabwitsa anthu omwe asankha kulowa Mixteca. Mitundu yambiri yamitundu yosakanikirana: mitundu ingapo yobiriwira, yachikasu, yofiirira, ya terracotta; ndipo chisangalalo, chikayendera azungu, chimalengeza za mvula yomwe imadyetsa dera lonselo. Kukongola uku ndiku mphatso yoyamba yomwe alendo amalemekezedwa.
Tikupita ku Santiago Pinotepa Nacional; kumtunda kwenikweni kwa chipululu ndi mizinda ya Tlaxiaco ndi Putla, njira zolowera kumadera ambiri a Mixtec ndi Triqui. Tikupitiliza ulendo wathu wopita kunyanja, makilomita ochepa tisanafike tikufika ku San Pedro Amuzgos, omwe mchilankhulo chake amatchedwa Tzjon Non (yomwe imalembedwanso kuti Tajon Noan) ndipo amatanthauza "tawuni yansalu": ndi mpando wamatauni wa Amuzga mbali ya Oaxaca.
Kumeneku, monga kumadera omwe tidzapiteko pambuyo pake, tinadabwitsidwa ndiulemerero wa anthu ake, thanzi lawo komanso nkhanza. Tikamayenda m'misewu yake, timafika kusukulu ina yomwe imakhalapo; Tidachita chidwi ndi momwe atsikana ndi anyamata ambiri, pakati pa kuseka ndi masewera, adathandizira pomanga kalasi yatsopano; Ntchito yake inali yopititsa madzi osakaniza, m'mabwato kutengera kukula kwa munthu aliyense. Mmodzi mwa aphunzitsiwo adatifotokozera kuti amayang'anira ntchito zolemetsa kapena zovuta pakati pa onse omwe anthu ammudzi amachita; panthawiyi ntchito ya ana inali yofunikira, chifukwa amabweretsa madzi mumtsinje wawung'ono. "Alipo ndipo timasamalira bwino madzi," adatiuza. Pomwe ana anali kusangalala ndi homuweki yawo komanso ankachita mpikisano wothamanga, aphunzitsi ndi ena mwa makolo a anawo adagwira ntchito zomwe cholinga chawo ndikumanga gawo latsopano la sukuluyi. Chifukwa chake, aliyense amagwira nawo ntchito yofunikira ndipo "kwa iwo amayamikiridwa kwambiri", anatero mphunzitsiyo. Chizoloŵezi chogwirira ntchito pamodzi kuti mukwaniritse cholinga chofanana ndichofala ku Oaxaca; m'mbali mwa dzikoli mumadziwika kuti asguelaguetza, ndipo ku Mixtec amatchedwa tequio.
Amuzgos kapena Amochcos ndi anthu achilendo. Ngakhale a Mixtec, omwe ndi achibale awo, adakopeka ndi oyandikana nawo, miyambo yawo ndi chilankhulo chawo zidakalipobe ndipo mwanjira zina zalimbikitsidwa. Ndiwotchuka m'chigawo cha Lower Mixtec komanso pagombe chifukwa chodziwa zitsamba zamtchire zogwiritsira ntchito zochiritsira, komanso chitukuko chachikulu chomwe chimapezeka mu mankhwala achikhalidwe, momwe amadzidalira, chifukwa amatsimikizira kuti ndizothandiza kwambiri.
Kuti tidziwe zambiri za tawuniyi, timayesetsa kuyandikira mbiri yake: tidazindikira kuti mawu oti amuzgo amachokera ku mawu amoxco (ochokera ku Nahuatl amoxtli, book, and co, locative); chifukwa chake, amuzgo amatanthauza: "malo amabuku".
Malinga ndi zisonyezo zachuma ndi chikhalidwe cha anthu omwe a INI adachita mu 1993, mtunduwu unali ndi 23,456 Amuzgos m'boma la Guerrero ndi 4,217 ku Oaxaca, onse olankhula chilankhulo chawo. Mu Ometepec okha ndi pomwe Spanish imagwiritsidwa ntchito kuposa Amuzgo; M'madera ena, anthuwa amalankhula chilankhulo chawo ndipo pali anthu ochepa omwe amalankhula bwino Chisipanishi.
Pambuyo pake timapitiliza kupita ku Santiago Pinotepa Nacional ndipo kuchokera pamenepo timatenga msewu wopita kudoko la Acapulco, kukafunafuna njira yopita ku Ometepec, tawuni yayikulu kwambiri ku Amuzgo. Ili ndi mawonekedwe amzinda wawung'ono, pali mahotela ndi malo odyera angapo, ndipo ndi mpumulo woyenera musanakwere mapiri kumbali ya Guerrero. Timapita kumsika wa Lamlungu, komwe amachokera kumadera akutali kwambiri a Amuzga kukagulitsa kapena kusinthana ndi zinthu zawo ndikupeza zomwe akufuna kupita nazo kwawo. Ometepec makamaka ndi mestizo ndipo amakhala ndi mulatto.
Kutacha m'mawa tinapita kumapiri. Cholinga chathu chinali kufikira madera a Xochistlahuaca. Tsikulo linali lokwanira: lomveka, ndipo kuyambira koyambirira kutentha kumamveka. Mseuwo unali wabwino mpaka kufika pamfundo ina; kenako chinawoneka ngati dongo. M'dera limodzi loyambirira timapeza anthu akuyenda. Tinafunsa chifukwa chake ndipo anatiuza kuti atenga San Agustín kuti akamupemphe kuti avule, chifukwa chilalacho chinawapweteka kwambiri. Pomwepo ndi pomwe tidazindikira zodabwitsa: kumtunda m'mapiri tidawona mvula, koma m'mbali mwa gombe ndikuchepetsa kutentha kunali kopondereza ndipo kunalibe chisonyezo choti madzi agwa. Panjira, amuna omwe anali pakatikati adanyamula woyera mtima, ndipo azimayi, omwe anali ambiri, anali kupanga woperekeza, aliyense ali ndi maluwa maluwa m'manja, ndipo adapemphera ndikuimba ku Amuzgo.
Pambuyo pake timapeza maliro. Amuna amderalo mwakachetechete komanso modekha anatulutsa mabokosiwo ndikupempha kuti tisatenge zithunzi. Amayenda pang'onopang'ono kupita kukalambiriko ndikuwonetsa kuti sitingathe kuwatsagana nawo; tidaona kuti gulu la azimayi likuyembekezera kubwera kwa gulu lomwe lili ndi maluwa a maluwa ofanana ndi omwe tidawona poyenda. Iwo adatsogolera kutsogolo ndipo gululo lidatsika chigwa.
Ngakhale Amuzgo ndi ambiri achikatolika, amaphatikiza miyambo yawo yachipembedzo ndi miyambo yochokera ku Spain isanachitike yopangidwa makamaka kuulimi; Amapanga mapemphero kuti alandire zokolola zochuluka ndikupempha chitetezo cha chilengedwe, maphompho, mitsinje, mapiri, mvula, indedi mfumu yamadzimadzi ndi mawonekedwe ena achilengedwe.
Titafika ku Xochistlahuaca, tinapeza tawuni yokongola yokhala ndi nyumba zoyera komanso madenga ofiira. Tinadabwitsidwa ndi ukhondo wabwino kwambiri m'misewu ndi misewu yake yokhomerera. Tikuyenda pakati pawo, tidadziwa malo opangira nsalu komanso oyenda mozungulira oyendetsedwa ndi a Evangelina, omwe amalankhula Chisipanishi motero ndiwomwe akuyimira komanso kuyang'anira alendo omwe akudziwa ntchito yomwe amachita kumeneko.
Timagawana ndi Evangelina ndi amayi ena pamene akugwira ntchito; Adatiwuza momwe amachitira zonsezi, kuyambira pakadula ulusi, kuwomba nsalu, kupanga chovalacho ndikumaliza kuchikongoletsa ndi kukoma kwake komwe kumawonekera, luso lomwe limafalikira kuchokera kwa amayi kupita kwa ana aakazi, mibadwo yonse.
Timapita kumsika ndikuseka ndi elcuetero, munthu yemwe amayenda m'matawuni omwe ali m'derali atanyamula zofunikira pachikondwerero. Tidalankhulanso ndi wogulitsa ulusi, yemwe amawabweretsa kuchokera kumudzi wina wakutali kwambiri, kwa azimayi omwe sakufuna kapena sangathe kupanga ulusi wawo wokometsera.
Ntchito zazikulu zachuma za anthu a Amuzgo ndi ulimi, womwe umangowapatsa moyo wosakhazikika, monga madera ang'onoang'ono azaulimi mdziko lathu. Mbewu zake zazikulu ndi izi: chimanga, nyemba, chili, mtedza, sikwashi, mbatata, nzimbe, hibiscus, tomato ndi zina zosafunikira kwenikweni. Ali ndi mitengo yambiri yazipatso, pakati pake pali mango, mitengo ya lalanje, mapapaya, mavwende ndi chinanazi. Amadziperekanso kukulitsa ng'ombe, nkhumba, mbuzi ndi akavalo, komanso nkhuku komanso kusonkhanitsa uchi. M'madera a Amuzga, ndizofala kuwona azimayi atanyamula zidebe pamutu pawo, momwe amanyamula zomwe amagula kapena zogulitsa, ngakhale kusinthana kuli kofala pakati pawo kuposa kusinthana ndalama.
Amuzgo amakhala kumunsi kwa Sierra Madre del Sur, m'malire a zigawo za Guerrero ndi Oaxaca. Nyengo m'dera lanu ndi yotentha kwambiri ndipo imayendetsedwa ndi chinyezi chomwe chimachokera ku Pacific Ocean. Zimakhala zachilendo m'deralo kuona dothi lofiira, chifukwa cha kuchuluka kwa okosijeni komwe amapereka.
Madera akuluakulu a Amuzga ku Guerrero ndi awa: Ometepec, Igualapa, Xochistlahuaca, Tlacoachistlahuaca ndi Cosuyoapan; ndipo m'boma la Oaxaca: San Pedro Amuzguso ndi San Juan Cacahuatepec. Amakhala kumtunda komwe kumakhala pakati pa 500 mita pamwamba pa nyanja, pomwe San Pedro Amuzgos, pamtunda wa 900 mita, m'malo okwera kwambiri am'mapiri komwe amakhala. Mapiriwa amatchedwa Sierra de Yucoyagua, omwe amagawika mabeseni omwe amapangidwa ndi mitsinje ya Ometepec ndi La Arena.
Chimodzi mwazinthu zofunikira kwambiri, monga momwe tidakwanitsira kutsimikizira paulendo wathu, zimachitika ndi azimayi: timatchula za madiresi okongola omwe amadzipangira kuti agwiritse ntchito komanso kugulitsa kumadera ena - ngakhale amalandira zochepa kuchokera kwa iwo, Popeza, monga akunenera, nsalu zam'manja ndizotopetsa kwambiri "ndipo sangathe kulipira mitengo yomwe ili yofunika kwambiri, chifukwa ikadakhala yodula kwambiri ndipo sakanatha kuigulitsa. Malo omwe madiresi ambiri ndi mabulauzi amapangidwa ndi Xochistlahuaca ndi San Pedro Amuzgos. Amayi, atsikana, achinyamata ndi akazi okalamba amavala zovala zawo zachikhalidwe tsiku lililonse komanso monyadira kwambiri.
Kuyenda m'misewu iyi ya nthaka yofiira, yokhala ndi nyumba zoyera zokhala ndi madenga ofiira ndi masamba ambiri, kuyankha moni wa aliyense amene amadutsa, ili ndi chithumwa chosangalatsa kwa ife omwe tikukhala mu maelstrom; Zimatitengera ku nthawi zakale komwe, monga zimachitikira kumeneko, munthu amakhala wamunthu komanso wokoma mtima.
LOS AMUZGOS: NYIMBO ZAO NDI GANIZO
Mwa miyambo ya Oaxacan, kuvina kochuluka ndi magule omwe amachitika amaonekera ndi chidindo chapadera, mwina pazochitika zina kapena panthawi yachikondwerero cha tchalitchi. Lingaliro la mwambowu, mwamwambo wachipembedzo womwe anthu adapanga kuvina kuyambira kalekale, ndi womwe umatsimikizira ndikukweza mzimu wazikhalidwe zikhalidwe.
Magule awo amatengera mbiri yamakolo, yotengera miyambo yomwe Colony sakanatha kuletsa.
Pafupifupi madera onse aboma, ziwonetsero zovina zimakhala ndi mawonekedwe osiyanasiyana ndipo "kuvina kambuku" komwe Putla Amuzgos adachitanso. Amavina mosisita ndipo akuwoneka kuti adalimbikitsidwa ndi kusaka, monga titha kuzindikira chifukwa chakuzunzidwa kwa galu ndi nyamayi, yoyimiriridwa ndi "ma güenches" omwe amavala zovala za nyamazi. Nyimbo ndizosakanikirana ndi mawu am'mbali mwa nyanja komanso zidutswa zoyambirira zoyenera magawo enawo: kuwonjezera pa zapateados komanso zosinthana ndi mwana wamwamuna, zimasintha mwapadera, monga kugwedeza kotsogola ndi kupindika patsogolo kwa thunthu, loimbidwa ndi ovina ndi manja awo. kuyikidwa m'chiuno, kutembenukira kwathunthu kwa iwe wekha, pamalo amenewa, ndi mayendedwe agile patsogolo opindika, mwamalingaliro ngati kuti usesa pansi ndi mipango yomwe anyamula m'dzanja lamanja. Osewera amatuluka kumapeto kwa gawo lililonse la gule.
Kukhalapo kwa phunziro limodzi kapena awiri muzovala zachilendo ndizofala. Ndiwo "güenches" kapena "minda", yoyang'anira kusangalatsa anthu ndi nthabwala zawo komanso zochulukirapo. Ponena za kutsata kwa magule, mitundu ingapo imagwiritsidwa ntchito: chingwe kapena mphepo, violin yosavuta ndi jarana kapena, monga zimachitikira m'mavinidwe ena a Villaltec, zida zakale kwambiri, monga shawm. Seti ya Yatzona yama chirimiteros imakhala ndi mbiri yoyenerera kudera lonselo.
MUKAPITA KU SAN PEDRO AMUZGOS
Mukachoka ku Oaxaca kupita ku Huajuapan de León pa Highway 190, 31 km kutsogolo kwa Nochixtlán mupeza mphambano ndi Highway 125 yolumikiza chigwa ndi gombe; Pitani kumwera kulowera ku Santiago Pinotepa Nacional, ndipo tili ndi 40 km kupita kumzindawu, tikapeza tawuni ya San Pedro Amuzgos, Oaxaca.
Koma ngati mukufuna kupita ku Ometepec (Guerrero) ndipo muli ku Acapulco, pafupifupi 225 km kutali, tengani msewu waukulu 200 kum'mawa ndipo mupeza kupatuka kwa 15 km kuchokera pa mlatho wapa mtsinje wa Quetzala; potero lidzafika pagulu lalikulu kwambiri mwa anthu a Amuzgo.
Chitsime: Mexico Yosadziwika No. 251 / Januwale 1998
