Tidatenga njira yopita ku likulu la boma ndidakumbukira kuti usiku wapitawu, usiku wopanda mwezi, zinali zotheka ku Paquimé, kuchokera padenga la Museum of Northern Cultures, kuti tiziyamikira nyenyezi zazikulu zonse. Pafupifupi Milky Way inapanga chipolopolo chosaneneka pamwamba pathu.
Mayté Luján, yemwe adatipempha kuti tibwere, adatiuza panthawiyo kuti: "Sindinkafuna kuti achoke popanda kumva izi, opanda mwayiwu." Ngakhale kuti Paquimé sali paphiri, okhala kwawo koyambirira anali pakati pa chipululu ndipo opanda kuwala kwapafupi, zowonadi pamene adazimitsa moto womaliza womwe angakhale nawo ngati nyenyezi, Orion Nebula, Andromeda Nebula kapena Osas, zazikulu ndi zazing'ono. Thambo lowala lidawalola kugwiritsa ntchito nyenyezi kuti zitsogolere pakati pausiku, pomwe amayenda zigwa zomwe lero ndi gawo la Chihuahuan.
Sitinakhalanso ndizokumbukira za Paquimé kumbuyo kwathu ndipo tinapita ku Parral kuti tikhalebe munthawi yake ndikuwona kubwera kwa okwera pamahatchi omwe azichita nawo ntchito yolanda mzindawo pa Julayi 19, pakukula kwa masiku a Villista.
NJIRA YA PAN-AMERICAN
Tatsala pang'ono kufika pamphambano ndi Pan-American Highway, yomwe a Chihuahuas potulutsa mawu awo amakonda kunena kuti: "Simukhulupirira, mzanga, koma msewu uwu umalumikiza New York ndi Buenos Aires." Iwo, monga magulu ena a anthu, amaganiza kuti malo apadziko lapansi ali pano, pafupi kwambiri ndi dera lamtendere ndipo m'modzi, munthawi yovuta kwambiri, sangayerekeze kutsutsana.
Chifukwa chake timapitilira ku Galeana, Flores Magón, Ojo Laguna, Mariquipa, Santa Cruz de Villegas ndipo, pafupi kwambiri ndi Parral, komwe Francisco Villa nthawi ina adati: "Kodi ukudziwa bwenzi liti? Nthawi zonse ndimakonda tawuni iyi ngakhale kufa."
MPHAMVU
Pablo anali asanakhalepo ku Parral, ndipo ndinatenga mwayi wautali wamsewu kuti ndimufotokozere nkhani zokhudzana ndi zomwe adzawone pambuyo pake, zambiri mwa nkhanizi ndi gawo la zolemba za Parral, zomwe zafotokozedwa ndi olemba mbiri ndi cholinga chodziwika bwino. Chifukwa chake ndidamuuza za Don Pedro de Alvarado, kenako Pablo amatenga zipolopolo m'nyumba mwake, zomwe zidasandulika chipilala chambiri. Malinga ndi agogo anga aakazi a Beatriz Baca, a Don Pedro, momwe amatchulidwira nthawi imeneyo, anali gambusino yemwe anali kufunafuna golide ndipo nthawi yomaliza yomwe adachoka ndikumatha kutenga ngongole kuti akonzekere ulendowu. Adamva ngakhale wogwira ntchito munyumba ya Tallforth akuwuza Don Pedro "aka ndi komaliza kuti timubwereke."
Zingakhale zodabwitsa bwanji a Parralians atazindikira kuti a Don Pedro adapeza mgodi komwe adachotsa mchere kuti apeze chuma chomwe adamangira Alvarado Palace komanso komwe adabadwira heroine wa Parral, yemwe, mothandizidwa ndi ophunzira, adathamangitsidwa kwa gulu lankhondo lomwe linali mbali yaulendo wopereka chilango womwe udadutsa malire a Mexico kukafunafuna Villa. Padzakhala mwayi wokhala ndi chithunzi cha nyumba ya Griensen komanso nyumba ya Stallforth, yemweyo pomwe Don Pedro adakwanitsa kuti apite kukafunafuna mchere.
LA PRIETA
Pakatikati mwa nkhaniyi tidalowa ku Parral, ndipo titangoyenda m'misewu tidawona phiri pomwe kuli malo ochitira masewera a La Prieta ndi winch yopita kumgodi, yemweyo yomwe idapatsa mzindawu mwayi wokhala phwando la migodi kwa zaka zambiri. Lero ndi gawo laulendo, alendo atha kutsikira limodzi la magawo 22, ndipo gawo labwino la milingoyo ladzaza madzi omwe adadzuka pamene mapampu adasiya kuchotsamo.
Ndi mgodi womwewo womwe udapangitsa kulira kwa siren ndikusintha kosintha ndipo zomwe zidasokoneza amayi anga a Beatriz Wuest Baca ali mwana, pomwe adamvedwa nthawi yolakwika yosonyeza ngozi, ndikupangitsa abale am'migodiwo kuzungulirazungulira mgodi kuti ndidziwe zomwe zidachitika.
KUDIKIRA CABALGATE
Tidali kale ku Parral, ndipo tsopano tidayenera kudikirira usiku umodzi kuti tisangalale ndi chiwonetsero chomwe chidakonzedwa pa Julayi 19 nthawi ya 10 m'mawa, ndendende madzulo a imfa ya Francisco Villa, yomwe idachitika pa Julayi 20, 1924. Chifukwa chake, Pablo adapezerapo mwayi masanawo kuwombera La Prieta. M'mawa kutacha tsiku lotsatira tinapita kukafunafuna kuwala koyamba kwa dzuwa, mphindi yomwe ojambula onse akufuna kujambula bwino kwambiri La Prieta.
M'mawa kutacha tsiku lotsatira tinapita kukafunafuna kuwala koyamba kwa dzuwa, mphindi yomwe ojambula onse amayang'ana kuti atenge bwino kwambiri. Timadutsa mzindawo ndikuyenda mumsewu wa Mercaderes mpaka titafika ku Plaza Guillermo Baca, ndipo motsatira njirayo timayang'ana pa bedi la mtsinje kuti tiwone mlatho wopangidwa ndi laimu ndi miyala pamwamba pa bedi la mtsinje womwe umadutsa mu inchi yamzindawu. Nthawi zambiri m'mbuyomu, idasefukira mpaka madamu atamaliza kuthamanga.
Pambuyo pa tsiku lomwelo m'mawa ndi chakudya cham'mawa chokoma limodzi ndi gorditas, tinapita kokwerera sitima kukadikirira anthu am'mudzimo. Amatiuza kuti adakali ku Maturana ndipo timaganiza zopita komweko, koma panthawiyi anthu anayamba kufuula: "Akubwera." Mtolankhani wa nyuzipepala yakomweko adationetsa kamera yake ya nkhondo zikwi, anali a José Guadalupe Gómez, omwe adatiuza za mwambowu, anali wokondwa kuti ine ndi Pablo tikufotokoza mwambowu ndipo tidakonzeka kudikirira a Villistas limodzi nafe .
KUFIKA KWAMBIRI
Kutumiza kumeneku kumayendetsedwa ndi injini ya nthunzi, yomweyi yomwe pamodzi ndi anthu ena asanu ndi anayi anali a makina opangira matabwa ku El Salto, Durango. Ndi makina okwana malita zikwi zitatu, omwe mmisiri wawo, a Gilberto Rodríguez, adandifotokozera posachedwa kutengera mawonekedwe a mwala wamtengo wapatali womwe udamangidwa mu 1914, womwe, motsutsana ndi kupita kwa masiku ndi zaka, adalowa m'zaka za m'ma XXI kuti atenge mzinda wothandizidwa ndi okwera pamahatchi omwe adayenda magawo angapo pafupifupi 240 km kuchokera ku likulu la boma. Amodzi awo adakula paulendowu ndipo ku Maturana adalumikizidwa ndi amuna ena okwera pamahatchi 600 ochokera m'mapiri ndi matauni pafupi ndi Parral. Villa, yemwe anali wotsutsana, anali pamikhalidwe yotchuka; Anthu zikwizikwi anasonkhana pafupi ndi siteshoniyo kuti alandire a Villistas ndi ma Adelita awo mosangalala kwambiri, pafupifupi zaka zana kuchokera pamene a Dorados adapanga dera lino kukhala gawo lawo.
Mosavuta modabwitsa, okwera mazana, ngati sikwizikwi, adalowa ku Parral monga m'masiku akale, osangowonetsa chisangalalo chokha pakuchita izi, komanso mphamvu yayikulu. Oyendetsa ndi akavalo atha kupikisana ndi ma charros abwino kwambiri a Bajío, ndi a Dorados de Villa, omwe adakalipo ngakhale atakhala zaka zambiri, kuthana ndi ziwopsezo zamasiku ano, kuti atsimikizire zochitidwa ndi zigawenga zotchuka ndikusunga moyo wake. nthano.
ZOCHITIKA ZOCHITIKA ZOKHUDZA KWAMBIRI
Amayiwo amathamangira kuti ayandikire pafupi ndikusilira amuna omwe akukwera, okongola komanso olimba mtima, nyama zomwe zikuwonetsa kale kutopa chifukwa cha tsiku lalitali padzuwa lotentha. Anthu ali ndi siteshoni. Hollywood Ndimalandira m'mawa womwewo mawonekedwe owonekeratu omwe owongolera ena amasilira.
Tsiku lotsatira anthu adasonkhana pamalo pomwe North Centaur idaphedwa, koma sindinakonde kukhala, ndipo ndidakhazikika pazomwe amayi adandiuza, yemwe mwangozi ndizomwe zidachitika m'mawa wa Julayi 20, pomwe amayenda kupita kusukulu, pokhala m'modzi mwa anthu oyamba omwe adayandikira galimoto pomwe Villa, Trillo ndi anthu ena adatsala atamwalira. Palibe amene amakumbukiranso akupha aja, lero tawuni yonse ikukumana ku Parral.
KUPITA KU VALLE DE ALLENDE
M'mawa womwewo tinanyamuka kupita ku Valle de Allende, yomwe inali imodzi mwa midzi yoyamba m'chigawo cha Nueva Vizcaya. Minda ya zipatso m'derali ndi yodabwitsa, mitengo ya mtedza yafika patali kwambiri kumeneko.
M'chigwa mtedza umodzi wamtengo wapatali kwambiri umapangidwa chifukwa cha kuchuluka kwamafuta omwe ali nawo; Ndinadabwa kumva kuti mitundu 26 ya peyala imabzalidwa. Kuphatikiza pa udzu wachilengedwe wamderali, palinso mitundu ina yazomera yolimidwa komanso yosamalidwa bwino mibadwo yambiri, popeza anthu aku Franciscans adayambitsa njira yothirira m'chigwachi. Walnut, persimon, pichesi, apurikoti, maula, quince, makangaza, mkuyu ndi lalanje ndi mayina amitengo yazipatso yomwe imakula bwino pafupi ndi paradaiso. Poyendetsedwa ndi chidwi, tidayenda minda yazipatso yothiriridwa ndi madzi oyera oyera, chilengedwe sichingakhale bwino, kumva kukhala bwino kwatilowerera m'malingaliro.
PANYUMBA YA RITA SOTO
Tikadatha kupitiliza mpaka kalekale kumalo opangidwa ndi dzanja la munthu, koma tisanapume pantchito tinayenera kupereka moni kwa Rita Soto, wolemba mbiri ku Valle de Allende, kupita kunyumba kwake ndikofunikira, komwe kumagwiranso ntchito ngati nyumba ya alendo. Tidafika pomwe kuzizilirako kumatha kusangalatsa m'makonde ozungulira bwalo lobzalidwa ndi mitengo ya lalanje. Rita ndi munthu yemwe amadziwa mbiri yachigawochi ndi anthu ake pamtima; Akatswiri odziwa za chikhalidwe ndi akatswiri a mbiri yakale adayendera kuti akaphunzire zinsinsi ndikuphunzira zidziwitso zomwe zingawathandize kuti athe kuyandikira zovuta zachigawo chodzaza nthano ndi otchulidwa. Mosakayikira, iye ndi wolimbikitsa chikhalidwe chachikulu yemwe amaphunzitsa mibadwo yatsopano za mbiri ndi madera akumwera kwa Chihuahua.
Wosonkhanitsa nthano, Rita Soto akufotokoza nkhani zosangalatsa zomwe zimaphatikizaponso, zomwe bambo ake adakumana ndi Francisco Villa zomwe zidamaliza ndi kuvomereza zolembedwazo, zomwe amasunga pamanja. Kuphatikiza pa zonse, Rita ndiwotsatsa alendo wabwino kwambiri yemwe amathandiza alendo kuti azidziyang'ana pawokha zosangulutsa zomwe zili m'chigwachi. Chifukwa chake, kuwonjezera pakuchezera mzindawu, malo ake akuluakulu, zipilala zachipembedzo komanso zokomera anthu, nyumba za m'zaka za zana la 18 ndi 19, njira yothirira yomwe a Franciscans adagwiritsa ntchito munthawi ya atsamunda, mutha kuchezeranso malo akale amatauni a haciendas ndi malo osiyana siyana am'mbiri, mwa awa, malo omwe atsogoleri a Hidalgo ndi zigawenga zina adayikidwa posamutsa Alhóndiga de Granaditas; nyumba yomwe Juarez adagona usiku wonse podutsa malowa panthawi yaku France, komanso nyumba zina zomwe General Villa amakhala.
MALO AMODZI KWA ALIYENSE
Komanso, mutha kusangalala ndi malo Ojo de Talamantes ndi El Trébol. Komanso pitani kumtsinje ndi minda ya zipatso. Malo abwino opumira tchuthi ndi kupumula, Valle de Allende imapereka malo ogona komanso chakudya. Kuphatikiza apo, ndizotheka kugona m'nyumba zanyumba zomwe zimalandira alendo ndikupereka zinthu zabwino.
Potero tidafika kumapeto kwa ulendowu, womwe udatisiyira kukoma kwambiri pakamwa pathu, chifukwa chazakudya zaku gastronomic ku Casas Grandes, komwe tidasangalala ndi nyama yokazinga, quesadillas ndi burritos; ku Parral, ma gorditas odziwika bwino, ndi ku Valle de Allende, zipatso zowoneka bwino komanso dulce de leche zomwe zimapangitsa Coahuila manyazi. The burritos ali, mosakayikira, abwino kwambiri kumpoto konse, ngakhale atakhala kuti alibe kuzindikira.
Pomaliza, kuti titsimikizire zomwe kalata ya Chihuahua corrido ikunena, wotitsogolera yemwe adakumana naye adadabwa ku Villa Ahumada. Kudzanja lamanja la mseu wopita ku likulu la boma, mizere ikudikirira apaulendo wokhala ndi ma quesadilla abwino kwambiri padziko lapansi. Villa Ahumada anali, mosakayikira, kutseka ndikukula. Ndiulendo wopita ku Chihuahua timatsimikiziranso, kuti si "dziko lalikulu", "m'bale wamkulu", komanso kuti ndi malo okhala ndi zokopa zosawerengeka komanso zosayembekezereka.
Oyenda apaulendo komanso okonda maulendo akudikirira Copper Canyon ndi mathithi ake; kwa othamanga omwe ali ndi chidwi ndi zovuta za kupirira, kuthamanga ndi kutengeka, milu ya Samalayuca; kwa iwo omwe ali ndi chidwi ndi machitidwe opanga bwino ndi Nuevo Casas Grandes ndi Valle de Allende; chifukwa cha kuphunzira mbiri yakale ndi anthropology, magulu aku Tarahumara aku Sierra, komanso mishoni ya Jesuit ndi Franciscan; kwa otolera zokumbukira ndi zolembedwa, Parral; ndi a kutsidya lina la malire, Ciudad Juárez ndi dera lonse la Chihuahuan.
