Munali mu Ogasiti, theka lachiwiri la chilimwe. Pa nthawi ino ya chaka, chiwonetsero chomwe ndikunena chimachitika tsiku lililonse cha m'ma 7:00 p.m.
Zonse zimayamba ndikuchepetsa kwa kuwala. Kutentha kumachepa. Owonerera akuyang'ana kumwamba akukonzekera kusangalala ndi kulowa kwa dzuwa kokongola kwambiri komwe kumawoneka padziko lapansi: likamatsika, dzuŵa pang'onopang'ono limakongoletsa ndege za mitambo yomwe imakweza mlengalenga ndi mithunzi kuyambira pinki wotumbululuka kukhala wofiirira kwambiri; kuchokera pachikaso chofewa mpaka pafupifupi lalanje. Kwa nthawi yopitilira ola limodzi, ife omwe tidali ku hotelo tidathamangitsa makamera athu kuti atenge chodabwitsa ichi kunyumba ndikuchiyamikira.
Hotelo yomwe yatchulidwayi, pakadali pano, ndi yekhayo ku San Felipe, doko laling'ono lakusodza lomwe lili pachitsime chakumpoto kwa Peninsula ya Yucatan.
Kusodza ndi maziko azachuma a nzika zake 2,100. Kwa zaka makumi atatu ntchitoyi yakhala ikuwongoleredwa ndipo asodzi amalemekeza nyengo zotsekedwa ndipo samapitilira malo oberekera komanso malo omwe nyama zazing'ono zimathawira.
Ngakhale kuti nkhanza zikuwonongeka Mwachitsanzo, nthawi ya nkhanu ikangoyamba kumene, nyamakazi imalowa. Kumbali inayi, nsomba zazing'ono zimachitika chaka chonse. Matani a zinthuzi amasungidwa muzipinda zoziziritsa kukhosi kuti azisamutsira kumalo ogawira. Mwa njira, usodzi wa octopus umachita chidwi: mu bwato lirilonse nthungo ziwiri zansungwi zotchedwa jimbas zimayikidwa, komwe nkhanu za Moorish zimamangidwa ngati nyambo. Bwatolo limawakoka m'mbali mwa nyanja ndipo octopus akazindikira crustacean, amatuluka pamalo obisalapo kudzadya. Imakhotetsa nyama yake ndipo nthawi yomweyo imanjenjemera ndi jimba, kenako msodziyo amakweza chingwe ndikumasula nkhanuyo kwa amene amamugwira ndikuyiyika mudengu lake. Kawirikawiri nkhanu yamoyo imagwiritsidwa ntchito kugwira nyamazi zisanu ndi chimodzi.
Anthu aku San Felipe ndi ansangala komanso ochezeka, monga aliyense pachilumbachi. Amamanga nyumba zawo ndi boxwood, chacté, sapote, jabin, ndi zina zambiri, zopaka utoto wowala. Pafupifupi zaka 20 zapitazo, nyumba zidapangidwa ndi matabwa a mkungudza ndi mahogany, zokongoletsedwa ndi varnish yokha yomwe idawunikira njere zokongola. Tsoka ilo, zotsalira zochepa ndizomwe zatsala, chifukwa mphepo yamkuntho Gilberto yomwe inakantha San Felipe pa Seputembara 14, 1988, idasesa doko. Kulimba mtima komanso kutsimikiza mtima kwa nzika zake zidapangitsa San Felipe kubadwanso.
Pakadali pano, moyo ku San Felipe ukuyenda bwino. Achinyamata amasonkhana kuti akamwe chisanu panjira yapa board pambuyo pa misa ya Lamlungu, pomwe achikulire amakhala kuti azicheza ndikuyang'ana alendo ochepa omwe amabwera malowa. Mtendere uwu, umasandulika chisangalalo pamene zikondwerero za oyera mtima zolemekeza San Felipe de Jesús ndi Santo Domingo zifika, kuyambira pa 1 mpaka 5 February, komanso kuyambira pa Ogasiti 1 mpaka 8, motsatana.
Phwandolo limayamba ndi "alborada" kapena "vaquería", yomwe ndi gule ndi gulu lanyumba yachifumu; Amayiwo amapita ndi suti zawo za mestizo, zokongoletsedwa bwino, ndipo amuna amawatsagana nawo atavala mathalauza oyera ndi "guayabana". Pamwambowu, mtsikana yemwe adzakhala mfumukazi ya phwandolo masiku asanu ndi atatu wavala korona.
Masiku otsatirawa "mabungwe" adakonzedwa, pambuyo pamisa yolemekeza woyera mtima, ndipo ndi gulu limodzi amatuluka mgulu m'misewu ya m'tawuniyi, kuchokera kutchalitchi kupita kunyumba ya m'modzi mwa omwe atenga nawo gawo pakhomopo nthaka pepala pepala. Kenako amasiya, kudya ndi kumwa mowa. Maguluwa amatenga nawo mbali motere: mbandakucha, anyamata ndi atsikana, amayi ndi abambo, asodzi ndipo, pomaliza, oweta ziweto.
Madzulo kumakhala ndewu zamphongo ndi "charlotada" (nthabwala zolimbana ndi ng'ombe zazing'ono), zonse zomwe zimakopeka ndi gulu la oyang'anira tauni. Kumapeto kwa tsikulo anthu amasonkhana mchihema ndi kuwala ndi mawu komwe amavina ndikumwa. Usiku womaliza kuvina kumakhala kosangalatsa ndi gulu limodzi.
Chifukwa chakuti ili m'mphepete mwa nyanja komwe kuli zilumba za mangrove, San Felipe ilibe gombe loyenera; komabe, kutuluka kunyanja ya Caribbean ndikosavuta komanso kosavuta. Pa doko pali mabwato oyendetsa njinga za alendo, omwe m'mphindi zosakwana zisanu amadutsa 1 800 m ya bwato lomwe limatsegulira nyanja yamchere, mchenga wake woyera komanso kukongola kwake kosatha. Yakwana nthawi yosangalala ndi dzuwa ndi madzi. Bwatolo limatifikitsa pafupi ndi zilumba zazikulu kwambiri, zomwe mchenga wake ndi woyera komanso wofewa, ngati talc. Kuyenda pang'ono m'mbali mwa gombelo kumatifikitsa kumadambo amchere amchere pakati pa chisumbu ndi chisumbu, theka lake lobisika ndi zomera. Pamenepo tidakumana ndikuwonetsa nyama zakutchire: agulugufe, mbalame zam'madzi, zitsamba zam'madzi ndi zitsamba zam'madzi zikuzungulira paliponse posaka nkhanu kapena "cacerolitas", nsomba zazing'ono ndi mollusks. Mwadzidzidzi, zodabwitsa zimabwera pamaso pathu ochititsa chidwi: gulu la ma flamingo limauluka, likuyenda modekha ndikutuluka mwa nthenga za pinki, milomo yopindika ndi miyendo yayitali pamadzi odikha. Mbalame zodabwitsazi zili ndi malo awo okhala, ndipo pansi penipeni paulusi womwe umazungulira zilumba zomwe amadyetsa ndi kuberekana, ndikuwaza utoto wawo wokongola kwambiri wamadzi wamtengo wapatali, womwe umakhala wobiriwira m'nkhalango pansi pa dambo la mangrove.
Kuyendera San Felipe ndi mphatso yamaso, yodzaza ndi mpweya wabwino, bata ndi madzi owonekera; kondwerani ndi kukoma kwa nkhanu, nkhono, octopus ... Dziloleni kuti muzisangalatsidwa ndi dzuwa lotentha ndikumverera kulandiridwa ndi anthu ake. Aliyense amabwerera kunyumba atatsitsimutsidwa atakhala pamalo ngati awa, polumikizana ndi dziko lodzala namwali ... Kodi palibe ambiri amene akufuna kuti akhale kosatha?
Gwero: Mexico Yosadziwika No. 294 / August 2001
