Kwa okonda zachilengedwe omwe amasangalala kuyenda maulendo ataliatali m'malo osiyanasiyana, ulendo wopita ku Cotlamanis Plateau udzakupatsani chisangalalo chachikulu.
Tikuyamba ulendowu ku Jalcomulco, Veracruz, tawuni yomwe ili pamtunda wa makilomita 42 kuchokera ku Xalapa, komwe kuli anthu pafupifupi 2,600.
Pofunitsitsa kugwiritsa ntchito bwino tsiku latsopano, tidadzuka popeza usiku unali utatsala pang'ono kutha. Chakudya cham'mawa chopatsa thanzi chinali chofunikira kuti athane ndi kuyenda kwamaola ambiri. Chifukwa cha kukana kwa abulu omwe adanyamula phukusi lathu, tidatha kuyatsa, ndipo titangokhala ndi kantini kokha ndi kamera kumbuyo kwathu, tinayamba ulendo wopita ku Cotlamanis.
Tidadutsa mumtsinje; kuchokera m'malo osiyanasiyana mumakhala ndi chithunzi chonse cha Jacomulco ndi Mtsinje wa Pescados poyerekeza.
Dera lamapiri la Buena Vista, malo oyamba omwe tinapeza, muli tawuni yaying'ono; kuyendetsa ndi nkhani yamagawo angapo. Njirayo idatitsogolera kupita ku canyon ndipo nditawona malowa ndidamva kuti malingalirowo akundinyenga: zigwa zakuya zomwe zili ndi mtsinje kumbuyo osakanikirana ndi mapiri otsetsereka. Zomera zosefukira nthawi zina zimabisa njira ndipo mtundu wobiriwirayo umakhala m'malo osiyanasiyana.
Tidatsika, kapena tidatsika ndi masitepe ophatikizidwa kukhoma la canyon. Kuyang'ana chigwa kunayambitsa kuzizira. Kutsetsereka ndikugubuduka ngati mpira ukugwa kutsikira kuti mulowe mumtsinje, ndidadutsa malingaliro anga. Palibe chomwe chidachitika. Zinangokhala malingaliro anga omwe adandiphunzitsa njira yayifupi kwambiri yotsitsimutsira.
Masitepe a mtengowu ankatsatizana. Ndizofunikira kuti zitsike, chifukwa zimakhazikika mpaka kalekale. Kupapatiza kwa njirayo kumapangitsa kuti kukhale koyenera kuyenda limodzi ndipo imangoyima chifukwa nthawi zonse pamakhala wina wofunitsitsa kusilira malowa kuchokera kumalo ena. Panalibe kuchepa kwa iwo omwe amagwiritsa ntchito ngati chowiringula kuti apumule kwakanthawi ndikubwezeretsanso.
Zida zakusilira zidadzuka pa mathithi a Boca del Viento. Ndi phompho lalitali kwambiri lamiyala pafupifupi 80 m. Pansi pa khoma pamakhala zotanthauzira zomwe zimapanga mapanga ang'onoang'ono. Ndi nyengo yamvula madzi amatsikira kukhoma ndikugwa kwamabingu; cenote imapangidwa yomwe imatha malire ndi phazi pansi pamapiri otsetsereka. Ngakhale kopanda madzi, malowa ndi okongola komanso okongola.
Tikupitilirabe kutsika kudera lomwe limadziwika kuti La Bajada de la Mala Pulga, kulowera ku Xopilapa, tawuni yomwe ili mkati mwa canyon, momwe muli anthu pafupifupi 500. Ndinachita chidwi ndi momwe amasamalirira. Nyumbazi ndizokongola kwambiri: zimapangidwa ndi bajareque ndipo makomawo adakongoletsedwa ndi madengu ndi miphika yamaluwa; Zimakhala zotentha komanso zosavuta kupanga, pogwiritsa ntchito otate. Nyumbayi ikamalizidwa ndi mitengo yolimba yomwe imagwira ntchito ngati zipilala, otate amalumikizana kapena kulukidwa kuti apange nyumbayo. Pambuyo pake pamapezeka mtundu wina wa dothi wophatikizidwa ndi udzu. Imakonzedwa ndi kuphwanyidwa ndi mapazi. Mukakonzekera chisakanizo chake, anachipaka pulasitala, pogwiritsa ntchito dzanja kumaliza. Mukayanika, mutha kuyika laimu mkati kuti mumalize bwino ndikupewa kuchuluka kwa nsikidzi.
China chake chodziwika bwino ndi tawuniyo ndi thanthwe lomwe lili pabwaloli lokhala ndi mtanda kumtunda komanso phiri lalitali kumbuyo. Lamlungu lirilonse nzika zake zimasonkhana kuti zikondwerere, pansi pa thanthwe ndi panja, misa ya Akatolika.
Titayenda kwa maola atatu ndi theka, tinapuma kwa kanthawi ku Xopilapa ndipo tinaona masangweji ena m'mbali mwa mtsinje wa Santamaría. Madzi ozizirawo adatipangitsa kuti tivule nsapato zathu ndi masokosi kuti tiphike phazi lathu. Tinapanga chithunzi choseketsa kwambiri; thukuta ndi uve, mapazi otakasuka, kukonzekera vuto lomaliza: kukwera Cotlamanis.
Kuwoloka mtsinje kangapo pamiyala yaying'ono komanso yoterera inali gawo lazinthu zabwino zaulendowu. Zinakhala zoseketsa kuona yemwe wagwera m'madzi. Panalibe kuchepa kwa membala wa gululi yemwe adachita kangapo.
Pomaliza, tinali kukwera phiri! Gawo lomalizali ndi losangalatsa kwa mwana wasukulu. Mseuwo uli wodzaza ndi mitengo yokhala ndi maluwa achikaso amvekedwe okhwima, omwe dzina lake ndi losavuta: maluwa achikaso. Nditatembenuka ndikuwona mtundu wa izi pamodzi ndi masamba angapo, ndidakhala ndi lingaliro lakuganizira za dambo lokutidwa ndi agulugufe. Panorama sangafanane, chifukwa mutha kuwona Xopilapa itazunguliridwa ndi mapiri ataliatali komanso atali.
Pamapeto pake muyenera kuyesetsa kwambiri chifukwa chotsetsereka ndichokwera kwambiri ndipo muyenera kukwera, kwenikweni. M'malo ena msipu wobalalika akuwoneka kuti wakudya. Mumangosowa. Koma mphothoyo ndiyapadera: mukafika ku Cotlamanis amakondwera ndi mawonekedwe a 360-degree omwe amapita mpaka kumapeto. Kukula kwake kumakupangitsani kumva ngati mfundo m'chilengedwe chonse yomwe nthawi yomweyo imalamulira chilichonse. Ndikumverera kwachilendo ndipo malowa ali ndi mpweya wina wakale.
Chigawochi chili pamtunda wa mamita 450 pamwamba pa nyanja. Jacomulco ili pa 350, koma zigwa zomwe zimatsika zizikhala mozungulira 200 mita.
Cotlamanis amakhala ndi manda okhala ndi zidutswa zisanachitike ku Spain, mwina Totonac. Amakhulupirira kuti zili choncho chifukwa zili pakatikati pa Veracruz ndipo zili pafupi ndi El Tajín. Tidawona zidutswa zomwe mwina zinali zotengera, mbale, kapena zidutswa zina zadothi; ndizo zithunzithunzi za tawuni yowonongedwa ndi nthawi. Timaonanso masitepe awiri a piramidi yaying'ono. Mafupa amunthu apezeka omwe amapangitsa munthu kulingalira za manda. Malowa ndi achinsinsi, amakupititsani zakale. Chinsinsi chomwe Cotlamanis ili nacho chimalowa mkati mwanu.
Kuganizira kutuluka kwa Dzuwa kapena tsiku likamatha, ndi ndakatulo yeniyeni. Patsiku loyera mutha kuwona Pico de Orizaba. Palibe malire, chifukwa diso limaphimba mpaka momwe kuwona kumaloleza.
Tinamanga msasa m'chigwa cha m'chigwa. Ena amamanga mahema awo ndipo ena amagona panja kuti azisangalala ndi nyenyezi komanso kulumikizana ndi chilengedwe. Chisangalalocho sichinakhalitse chifukwa pakati pausiku kunayamba kugwa ndipo tinathamangira kukabisala mchipinda chomwe chinali ngati chipinda chodyera. Muthanso kukhazikitsa msasa ku Xopilapa, pafupi ndi mtsinjewo, osanyamula mapaketiwo kupita nawo kumapiri, chifukwa abulu amangopita patali.
Kudzuka sikunachedwe; tinatopa ndi masewera olimbitsa thupi ndipo izi zidatipangitsa kugona ngati nyumba zogona ndikumverera kuti tili ndi thanzi. Tidayamba kutsika ndikusangalala kusangalala ndi chiwonetserochi, kutchera khutu kuzinthu zomwe poyamba sizidziwika pomwe malowo akuwonetsedwa kwathunthu.
Cotlamanis! Kuyenda kwamaola asanu komwe kukupangitsani kuti musangalale ndi chilengedwe ndikulowa m'malo osavomerezeka a Mexico, ndikukutengerani nthawi zakutali.
NGATI MUPITA KU COTLAMANIS
Tengani khwalala ayi. 150 Mexico-Puebla. Pass Amozoc to Acatzingo and pitilizani pa msewu no. 140 mpaka kukafika ku Xalapa. Sikoyenera kulowa mumzinda uno. Pitirizani kudutsa mpaka mutawona chikwangwani cha Coatepec, kutsogolo kwa Fiesta Inn Hotel; pamenepo tembenuzirani kumanja. Mudzadutsa matauni angapo, monga Estanzuela, Alborada ndi Tezumapán, pakati pa ena. Mupeza zikwangwani ziwiri zomwe zikuloza Jalcomulco kumanzere. Pambuyo pa chizindikiro chachiwiri zonse zili bwino.
Njira yochokera ku Xalapa kupita ku Jalcomulco siyopakidwa; Ndi msewu wopapatiza wa mbali ziwiri. M'nyengo yamvula mutha kupeza maenje angapo. Zimatenga pafupifupi mphindi 45.
Kuchokera ku Jalcomulco kukwera kupita ku Cotlamanis kumayamba. Palibe mahotela mtawuniyi, chifukwa chake ndikofunikira kuti mugone ku Xalapa ngati mukufuna kuyenda nokha. Poterepa, kuti mufike ku Cotlamanis ndikofunikira kufunsa anthu amtauni ndikupitilizabe kutero ndi aliyense amene mungakumane naye panjira. Palibe chizindikiro ndipo nthawi zina pamakhala misewu ingapo.
Njira yabwino ndikulumikizana ndi Expediciones Tropicales, yomwe imatha kukulandirani ku Jalcomulco ndikukutsogolerani kudera.
Gwero: Mexico Unknown No. 259
cotlamanisJalapaJalcomulco
