Titafika pakamwa pa Busilhá, yomwe imadutsa mumtsinje wa Usumacinta, sitinakhulupirire zomwe tidawona: mathithi okongola komanso okongola, omwe nyimbo yake ndi njira yachilengedwe.
Lacandon Jungle, yomwe ili kumwera chakum'mawa kwa Mexico, m'boma la Chiapas, amadziwika kuti ndi amodzi mwamapiri omaliza nkhalango zotentha ku North America. Chifukwa cha mawonekedwe ake achilengedwe, amatenga gawo lofunikira pakuwongolera nyengo ndi mvula; Zomera za m'nkhalango ya Lacandon ndizomwe zimatchedwa mitengo yobiriwira nthawi zonse yobiriwira komanso nkhalango yobiriwira nthawi zonse, nyengo imakhala 22 ° C pafupifupi pachaka ndipo mvula imagwera 2,500 cm3 pachaka; M'gawo lake lalikulu mitsinje ikuluikulu ya dziko lathu, yotchedwa "Padre Usumacinta" ndi anthu akumaloko, ikupita.
Kuti mumve za zamoyo zosiyanasiyana, ndikwanira kutchula kuti pali mitundu yopitilira 15 zikwi ya agulugufe usiku, mitundu ing'onoing'ono 65 ya nsomba, mitundu 84 ya zokwawa, 300 za mbalame ndi 163 za nyama, kuphatikiza, amphibians akuyimiridwa ndi ma oda awiri ndi mabanja 6.
Pali zochitika zambiri zomwe zimachitika m'nkhalango ya Lacandon: kuyambira zokolola mpaka zowonjezera, kudzera muulimi, kusamalira ndi zokopa alendo; Munthawi yomalizayi, a Lacandona - monga amadziwika bwino - ali ndi kuthekera kwakukulu kuti, motsogozedwa moyenera, atha kupanga chisankho posamalira malowa, kuwonjezera pakuyimira njira ina yachuma kwa nzika zakomweko.
Ulendo wokaona zachilengedwe - womwe umadziwika kuti ndiwothandiza, wolunjika makamaka kumadera osasokonezedwa kapena osasokonezedwa - ndiye zida zabwino kwambiri zolimbikitsira chitukuko chokhazikika ndi phindu lazachuma kwanuko ndi kuteteza Lacandona.
Kuti tidziwe chimodzi mwazodabwitsa za ngodya iyi ya Mexico, tidaganiza zopita kukaona nkhalango, yomwe idayambira ku Palenque, umodzi mwamizinda yayikulu yaku Mayan m'nthawi yakale yomwe, pamodzi ndi Bonampak, Toniná ndi Yaxchilán, ndiomwe amakhala ambiri madera ofunikira a Mayan m'derali - osachepetsa kufunikira kwa ena komwe kulinso zotsalira zomwe, panthawiyo, sizinapeze malire ndikufalikira kudera lonse la Central America.
Cholinga cha ulendowu chinali kudziwa imodzi mwa mitsinje yomwe imapezeka mumayendedwe ovuta a hydrological a Lacandon Jungle, wotchedwa Mayabusilháo "mtsuko wamadzi". Timatenga msewu wochokera ku Palenque kupita kunkhalango pafupi ndi msewu waukulu wakummwera; pa kilometre 87 pamakhala gulu la Nueva Esperanza Progresista, malo okhala zazing'ono zomwe gawo lomaliza la mtsinjewu limakhala.
Kulankhulana kwathu koyamba kunali woyendetsa minibus pamsewu wa Nueva Esperanza Progresista-Palenque. (Amachoka m'deralo 6:00 a.m.ndibweranso 2:00 pm, kotero ngati mukufuna kutenga njira imeneyo muyenera kukhala ku Palenque nthawi ya 11:00 a.m.) Msewu udalizidwa bwino mpaka Kilometre 87 pomwe mpata wadothi wamakilomita 3 umatengedwa kupita pakatikati pa tawuniyi. Apa ndipomwe ulendo ndi kuphunzira kwathu m'nkhalango kunayambiradi, chifukwa cha Don Aquiles Ramírez yemwe, limodzi ndi mwana wake, adatitsogolera m'njira zosiyanasiyana.
Gawo loyamba laulendo wopita ku mtsinje wa Busilhá limatha kuyenda wapansi kapena pagalimoto kudzera pamalo opanda vuto, galimotoyo imatha kunyamula zida zomwe kutsikira mumtsinje wa Usumacinta kumapangidwira mpaka kukafika kudera la Tabasco; apa mtsinje uwu ukutaya njira yake ndipo umathera m'malo osefukira, zomwe zikuyimira ulendo wosayerekezeka m'madzi abata komanso amphepo. Tidadutsa malo ang'onoang'ono kapena madera omwe ntchito zawo zazikulu ndi zaulimi ndi ziweto, ndipo tidazindikira popanda khama kuti pali zomera zochepa zachilengedwe: tidangowona msipu ndi minda ya chimanga.
Gawo lachiwiri la gawoli ndi 7.3 km kuchokera kumudzi mpaka kukafika kumtsinje. Tsopano zomera zosandulizidwazo zasakanikirana ndi chilengedwe cha m'derali, ndipo pamene tikufika komwe tikupita timapeza zinthu zina zachilengedwe, monga zomera, mitengo ikuluikulu, mbalame ndi nyama zina. Njira ina yofikira kumeneko ndi ochokera ku Frontera Corozal, tawuni ya Chol yochokera ku 170 km kuchokera ku Palenque kum'mawa. Kuchokera pano ndizotheka kutsika Mtsinje wa Usumacinta ndikufika pakamwa pa Busilhá.
Mtsinje wa Busilhá umabadwira pamtsinje wa Lacantún - womwe umachokera kum'mwera kwa Lacandon Jungle- ndi mitsinje ya Pasión ndi Salinas - yomwe imachokera kumpoto chakumadzulo kwa Guatemala-. Ngalandeyi imafikira makilomita opitilira 80 kuchokera ku chigwa cha Lacandón, mdera lotchedwa El Desempeño, imadutsa madera angapo mpaka ikafika kumapeto kwake ndikupereka msonkho ku Usumacinta, komanso mitsinje ina yaukadaulo wama hydrological. .
Ulendo woyendera dera lakumpoto m'nkhalango umafotokoza mbiri yake yaposachedwa: malo akulu otseguka kwa ziweto ndi ulimi, zomwe zimadalira kufesa kwa chimanga chodziwika bwino (Zea mays) ndi chili (Capsicum annum). Koma pakati pa izi ndi magombe a mitsinje timapeza zomera zomwe zili m'derali, monga mkungudza wofiira (Cedrela odorata), mahogany (Swietenia macrophilla), jovillo (Astronium tombolens) pakati pa mipesa (Monstera sp.) Ndi mitengo yambiri ya kanjedza .
Mbalame zimauluka pamwamba pathu kufunafuna chakudya kapena malo oti tizipita; toucan (Ramphastus sulfuratus), nkhunda ndi parakeets ndizofala; titawawona tinkamva kulira kwa anyani akulira (Alouatta pigra) ndikusangalala ndi chiwonetsero chomwe otter (Lontra ngicaudis) amasambira mumtsinje. M'derali mulinso ma raccoon, armadillos ndi nyama zina zomwe ndizovuta kuziona chifukwa cha zizolowezi zawo.
Omwe amakhala mdera la Esperanza Progresista ali, monga dzina lake likusonyezera, ali ndi chiyembekezo chodzachita zochitika zachilengedwe. Ndi gulu la eni ang'onoang'ono lomwe lidayamba zaka 22 zapitazo ndi anthu ochokera ku Macuspana (Tabasco), Palenque ndi Pichucalco (Chipas). Wotitsogolera, Don Aquiles Ramírez, wazaka 60, yemwe anayambitsa malowa komanso wodziwa zambiri m'nkhalango, akutiuza kuti: "Ndidabwera kunkhalango zaka 37 zapitazo, ndidachoka komwe ndidachokera chifukwa kudalibe malo ntchito ndi eni ake omwe anali nawo adatisunga ngati antchito akunyinyala. "
Pomwe kutseka kwa matabwa ndi makampani, omwe anali mumitsinje yayikulu ya Lacandon Jungle (Jataté, Usumacinta, Chocolhá, Busilhá, Perlas, ndi ena), madera ang'onoang'ono ambiri anali okhaokha m'nkhalango. Ndikutsegulidwa kwa misewu yopangira mafuta, madera akuluakulu adalandidwa ndi anthu ochokera kumpoto komanso likulu la Chiapas. Magulu ambiri alandila malingaliro awo pazandalama ndi zopereka zomwe zimaphatikizana ndi malamulo amtundu wa Lacandona Community ndi Montes Azules Reserve yomwe.
Ndi kupatsidwa malo ndi kukhazikitsidwa kwa Gulu Lacandon pakati pa 1972 ndi 1976, madera ambiri ang'onoang'ono adasamutsidwa m'malo omwe amatchedwa New Population Centers, omwe sanalandiridwe kwathunthu ndi anthu amderali.
Pakati pa zovuta za makampani odula mitengo ndi mavuto am'magawo, mu 1975 moto udachitika womwe udafalikira mahekitala opitilira 50 ndipo udakhala miyezi ingapo; Zachilengedwe zaku kumpoto kwa nkhalango zidatha ndipo gawo labwino la dera lomwe lakhudzidwa lidasandulika msipu ndi malo olimapo.
Patatha zaka zambiri, mseu udafika; ndi mayendedwe komanso alendo ambiri omwe ali ndi chidwi chofuna kudziwa malo achilengedwe m'nkhalango ina mwa madera aku Mexico omwe ali ndi zikhalidwe zosiyanasiyana.
Chimodzi mwamaubwino amisewu ya phula kapena phula ndikuti amathandizira kudziwa zachilengedwe, malo ofukula zakale komanso zikhalidwe zomwe zidatsekedwa kale chifukwa chosowa, koma choyipa ndichakuti samayang'aniridwa mosamala kapena kusangalala mokwanira. Kuphatikiza apo, zovuta zachilengedwe zomwe zimapangidwa ndi misewu komanso zokopa alendo zosakonzekera bwino zimawononga chuma chachilengedwe komanso chikhalidwe chomwe chimapezeka m'malo amenewa, ndikuyika pachiwopsezo chotayika kwamuyaya.
Pakati pa zokambirana ndi Don Aquiles ndi mwana wake wamwamuna, tidapita kunkhalango mpaka tinafika komwe tikupita. Kuyandikira kuchokera kutali tikuthokoza mtsinje womwe udabwera ndikupitilira ulendo wawo; tinafika pakamwa pake ndipo, ngati katani la ngale zokugubuduza, zimawoneka ngati zilipira mtengo wolimba mtima poyang'anizana ndi colossus. Mtsinje wa Busilhá umadzipereka ukakumana ndi Usumacinta, kutsika kwake.
Chifukwa chakusiyana kwakutali, pakamwa pa Busilhá imapanga mathithi okongola. Uko kunali, kokongola komanso kokongola, kokhala ndi dontho loyamba la mita zisanu ndi ziwiri kutalika kenako ndikupanga milingo yosiyanasiyana ngati kuti ikungoyendetsa msonkho.
Titasilira ndikusangalala ndi mphindi zosayiwalika za kusinkhasinkha ndikuyamikira chilengedwe, tinaganiza zosambira m'madzi ake ndikufufuza. Tithandizidwa ndi chingwe tidatsika pakati pa miyala yomwe ili pafupi ndi kudumpha koyamba ndipo mu dziwe lomwe lidapangidwa tidatha kumiza m'madzi. Magawo omwe amatsatira akutiitana kuti tiyese kutsatira njira yawo, ngakhale tidawona kuti sitepe yachiwiri yokha ndi yomwe ingatilole kulumpha popanda chiopsezo.
Mtsinje wa Usumacinta ukamatuluka m'nyengo yamvula, kutsetsereka kwa mathithi kumaphimbidwa ndikutsalira mbewu ziwiri zokha; koma osati ndi ichi ndi kukongola kwa mathithi ochepera. Kuyenda pa raft kudutsa Usumacinta ndikosangalatsa komanso mwayi wapadera wolumikizana ndi chilengedwe.
Umu ndi momwe zimachitikira mu Lacandon Jungle. Tikamayendamo kwambiri, ndipamenenso timazindikira momwe timadziwira zochepa.
