Jaguar cenote ndichinthu chodabwitsa kwambiri. Kuzama kwake kwakukulu, pansi pamadzi, kumangoposa 30 m ndipo pali madzi amchere pansi.
Ulendowu udayamba mutalowa mumsewu wafumbi (sacbe) osadzilengeza. Pambuyo makilomita asanu tinafika ku tawuni ya Pacchen. Panali gulu la Mayan likutidikirira. Jaime, wotitsogolera yemwe adatibweretsa kuchokera ku Playa del Carmen, adatidziwitsa kwa José, wokhala ku Pacchen, munthu wamphamvu, womwetulira komanso wochezeka.
Tinayenda mwachangu kudutsa m'nkhalango; Tili m'njira, José anatiuza kagwiritsidwe ntchito ka mbewu zina ndi momwe anaphunzirira kuchiritsa nazo. Pakadali pano, timafika ku Jaguar cenote (Balam Kin).
Kulowa mu cenote ndichinthu chosangalatsa. Poyamba samawoneka bwino, chifukwa kuyang'ana kuyenera kuzolowera mdima, koma ukangochitika ndizotheka kusiyanitsa nyumba yayikulu yokhala ndi madzi akuya komanso amakristalo. Pali kutsika kwamamita 13 kumadzi. Desiderio, mchimwene wake wa José, adatilandira ndi float ndipo titamasuka ku chingwe adalongosola kuti: "Malo ano ndi opatulika, chifukwa agogo athu anali ngati kachisi. Madzi awa amachiritsa ”. Desiderio adatidziwitsa gawo lamatsenga la cenote, komanso adatipatsanso luso laukadaulo: adalongosola kuti kuzama kwakukulu, pansi pamadzi, kunali kupitilira 30 m komanso kuti panali madzi amchere pansipa. Zamoyo zomwe zimagwiritsa ntchito cenote ngati nyumba zinali nkhandwe zakhungu, timitengo tating'onoting'ono, mileme, ndi mbalame yoitanidwa, wachibale wa kamzimbi yemwe amakhala m'mapanga. M'malo mwake, mukamayenda m'nkhalango ndikuwona kapena kumva china, zikutanthauza kuti pali phanga pafupi.
Desiderio adatitengera kumalo amdima kwambiri a cenote. "Ayenera kulowa mumdima kuti apeze kuwala," adatero. "Malo awa ndi khosi la nyamazi." Kwenikweni, simunawone zambiri, koma zimangokhala ngati tili m'phanga laling'ono. Kanemayo adayamba pomwe adatembenuka kuti abwerere: phanga lonselo lidawoneka ndipo padenga kuyerekezera kwa kuwala kuchokera pazitseko zomwe zimafanana ndi maso a nyamayi kumayamikiridwa.
Tsopano gawo losangalatsa. Kodi tikwera bwanji? "Tili ndi njira ziwiri zokwerera," adatero Desiderio. “Imodzi ili pamakwerero azingwe omwe amabwera kumeneko. Kuti achite izi akuyenera kulumikiza chingwe ku carabiner yawo ndipo tiwapatsa chitetezo chochokera kumwamba. Enanso amagwiritsa ntchito chikepe cha Mayan ”(pulleys yokhala ndi bwalo pomwe amuna atatu amakweza alendo). "Vuto limakhala pamene anthu onenepa amabwera," adatero José atakumana nafe panja.
Tinayenda pafupifupi 200 m ndikufika ku cenote ina, yotseguka ngati dziwe, lomwe limapanga bwalo labwino kwambiri. Cenote-lagoon imeneyi imadziwika ndi dzina loti Cayman cenote, chifukwa si zachilendo kuona imodzi kapena zingapo mwa nyamazi.
Pamwamba pa cenote pali mizere iwiri yayitali yazitali pafupifupi 100 mita kutalika. Mutatha kulumikizana ndi carabiner yanu kumtunda kumabwera gawo losangalatsa kwambiri paulendowu: kudumpha kuchokera kuphompho. Ndikumverera kwakukulu, pomwe chinthu chabwino kwambiri chomwe mungachite ndikufuula. Pofika pakufika kumapeto ena, chingwe chotanuka chimakuchedwetsani ndikukuyikani pafupifupi theka; ndizosatheka kugwera m'madzi ndi ma alligator. Kumbali inayo, José anali kutidikirira ndi munthu wina, yemwe anatiuza kuti ndi Otto, mnzake, wochokera ku Monterrey, yemwe adafika pagulu la Pacchen zaka zitatu zapitazo, atangotsegula msewu wafumbi. Anatiuza kuti ma ejidatarios adalumikizana ndi Alltournative, woyendetsa ndege ku Playa del Carmen, ndipo adamuyitanitsa kuti atenge nawo gawo, chifukwa chake adasamukira kuderalo ndikuthandizira ma ejidatarios kuti adzipangire okha kuti apange malo oyendera alendo ndikukonzekera ntchitoyi.
Ntchito yotsatirayi inali kuyamba bwato ndikupalasa podutsa m'nyanja ndi ngalande. Kuchokera m'madzi, tawuniyi imatha kuyamikiridwa bwino, komanso nkhalango yayitali yomwe ili kutsidya lina la anthu.
Titafika padoko, wotitsogolera, a Jaime, adatiuza kuti chakudya chakonzeka. M'khitchini, azimayi anayi achi Mayani, atavala zovala zawo zachikhalidwe, adapanga timitanda tambiri kuchokera ku nixtamal (mtanda weniweni wa chimanga) ndi dzanja. Zakudyazi zinali zosiyanasiyana ndipo kuchokera kuchipinda chodyera tidali ndi mwayi wofufuza zanyanja ndi nkhalango.
Pambuyo pa nkhomaliro timapuma kwakanthawi mpaka itakwana nthawi yopita ku Cobá, makilomita 30 kuchokera ku Pacchen.
MBIRI YA PACCHEN MBIRI
Pac-chén, amatanthauza "wokonda bwino": pac, wokonda; chen, chabwino. Tawuni yoyambirira ya Pacchen inali makilomita anayi kum'mawa kwa komwe ilipo. Omwe anayambitsa Pacchen anali mabanja anayi omwe adagwira ntchito ngati ma chicleros m'nkhalango. Msika wa chingamu utagwa chifukwa choyambitsa mafuta ochokera ku chewing chingamu, mabanja osamukasamukawa sanabwerere kwawo, Chemax, Yucatán, ndipo adakhazikika pafupi ndi nkhalangoyo. Iwo anakhala kumeneko kwa zaka pafupifupi makumi awiri. Kuti afike pamsewu amayenera kuyenda makilomita asanu ndi anayi. Amanena kuti pakakhala odwala kwambiri amayenera kuchitidwa. Komabe, unali moyo wovuta kwambiri komanso wovuta. Boma la bomali ladzipereka kumanga msewu ngati atayandikira pafupi ndi madoko. Umu ndi momwe zaka 15 zapitazo gulu la Pacchen lidasamukira komwe likukhalamo.
NKHANI
Kutsogolo kwa khomo la malo ofukula zakale ku Cobá pali dziwe komwe tidawona ng'ona yayikulu kwambiri. A Jaime adatifotokozera kuti, mosiyana ndi Pacchen, pomwe ma alligator alibe vuto lililonse, ndizowopsa kusambira m'nyanja. Cobá unali mzinda wofunika kwambiri munthawi yachikhalidwe cha Mayan. Pali akachisi pafupifupi 6,000 obalalika kudera la 70 km2. Cholinga cha gululi chinali kufikira piramidi yayikulu, yotchedwa Nohoch Mul, kutanthauza "Phiri Lalikulu". Pyramid iyi ili pamtunda wa makilomita awiri kuchokera pakhomo lolowera, kotero kuti tiwongolere mayendedwe tidabwereka njinga ndipo ulendowu udali munjira imodzi yakale kapena sacbeob.
Kuchokera pamwamba pa Nohoch Mul ndizotheka kuwona ma kilomita mozungulira, ndikuchokera komweko kuyamikira dera lomwe mzinda wakale udalipo. Jaime adaloza kumtunda komwe amandiwonetsa mapiri akutali: "Pali Pacchen." Kenako zinali zowonekeratu kuwona ubale womwe dera lonselo linali nawo; Komanso, kuchokera pamwamba pa Nohoch Mul zikuwoneka kuti mutha kuwona nyanja.
CENOTE Wouma
Pafupifupi 100 m kuchokera pamsewu waukulu wopita ku Nohoch Mul ndiye cenote Seco. Malowa ali ndi mawonekedwe amatsenga; pamenepo tidakhala chete kusangalala ndi bata komanso chisangalalo. Jaime adatifotokozera kuti chigwa cha Seco cenote chidamangidwa ndi anthu munthawi ya Classic, pomwe mzinda waukulu udamangidwa. Malowa anali malo okumbapo miyala pomwe ma Mayan adatenga gawo lina lazinthu zomangira akachisi awo. Pambuyo pake, mkati mwa Postclassic, dzenjelo lidagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati chitsime chosungira madzi amvula. Lero zomera zakula modabwitsa, ndipo chitsime chakale tsopano ndi nkhalango yaying'ono yamitengo ya cork.
Tinachoka ku Cobá pamene anali kutseka malo ofukula mabwinja ndipo dzuwa linali likulowa. Linali tsiku lalitali lazosangalatsa komanso chikhalidwe, zamalingaliro ndi kudzoza, zamatsenga ndi zenizeni. Tsopano tinali ndi ola limodzi patsogolo pathu popita ku Playa del Carmen.
