Nkhaniyi idayamba zaka zoposa 20 zapitazo. Pakati pa 1978 ndi 1979, a Harry Möller, omwe adayambitsa Mexico yosadziwika, adalemba kuchokera ku helikopita kudera la Quebradas m'boma la Durango, amodzi mwa zigawo zadzidzidzi kwambiri ku Sierra Madre Occidental.
Gulu la ofufuza lidaganiza kuti lisataye mwayi wopeza izi ndipo izi ndi zomwe zidatsata ... Zinthu zambiri zidadabwitsa Möller; zozizwitsa, kukongola, kuya, koma koposa zinsinsi zonse zomwe zilimo. Anapeza malo opitilira 50 ofukula zamabwinja amtundu wamapanga okhala ndi nyumba, zomwe zili m'malo omwe anthu sangathe kufikako. Atayandikira helikopita, samatha kufikira amodzi mwa malo awa, omwe amati ndi chikhalidwe cha xixime (cholembedwa m'magazini yosadziwika ya Mexico, nambala 46 ndi 47).
Umu ndi momwe Möller adandiwonetsera zithunzi zamasamba kuti ndiwaphunzire ndikuzindikira njira zopezera. Nditapempha njira zodutsa kwambiri, tidaganiza zopanga mayendedwe, kuyambira ndi Barranca de Bacís, yomwe idasangalatsa kwambiri Möller, koma zingatitengere zaka khumi kuti tipeze ndalama zofunikira.
Zaka zapitazo…
Carlos Rangel ndi seva akufuna Mexico yosadziwika kuyesera kwatsopano kulowa ku Bacís, ndikufufuza malo ozungulira Cerro de la Campana. M'mwezi wa Disembala, Carlos, limodzi ndi gulu lofufuza la UNAM, adalowa koyambirira, kuti akafufuze malowa. Anayandikira momwe angathere ndikupeza mapanga osangalatsa okhala ndi nyumba, koma anali malo oyamba, ofikirika kwambiri, ndipo adawonetsa kale zofunkha.
Yambani ulendo waukulu
Ndinayamba kufufuza ku Sierra Tarahumara, ku Chihuahua, kufunafuna malo ofukula mabwinja monga mapanga okhala ndi nyumba. M'zaka zisanu ndidapeza zoposa 100, zina zowoneka bwino kwambiri, zomwe zidapereka chidziwitso chatsopano pakufufuza zakale za chikhalidwe cha Paquimé (Mexico magazini osadziwika 222 ndi 274). Kufufuzaku kudatipititsa kumwera, mpaka tidazindikira kuti masamba a Durango anali kupitiliza kwa a Tarahumara, ngakhale sanali achikhalidwe chomwecho, koma omwe anali ndi mawonekedwe ofanana.
M'dera lomwe tsopano ndi gawo lakumpoto chakumadzulo kwa Mexico ndi kumwera chakumadzulo kwa United States, dera lazikhalidwe lotchedwa Oasisamérica (AD 1000) lidayamba. Anamvetsetsa zomwe tsopano ndi zigawo za Sonora ndi Chihuahua, ku Mexico; ndi Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, Texas ndi Utah ku United States. Chifukwa cha zomwe tapeza, dera la Quebradas de Durango litha kuwonjezeredwa pamndandandawu ngati malire akumwera. Ku Chihuahua ndidakumana ndi Walther Bishop, bambo waku Durango yemwe anali woyendetsa ndege ku Sierra Madre ndipo anandiuza kuti wawona malo okhala ndi mapanga okhala ndi nyumba, koma kuti amakumbukira makamaka ku Piaxtla.
Ndege zakuzindikira
Kuuluka pamtsinjewo kunatsimikizira kuti kuli malo osachepera theka la khumi ndi awiri ofukula zakale. Kupeza kwake kunkawoneka kosatheka. Zochitika zidatidabwitsa. Anali mamita 1,200 ofukula amiyala yoyera, ndipo pakati pake panali zipinda zachikhalidwe choiwalika. Kenako tinadutsa misewu yafumbi ya m'mapiri, kufunafuna njira zolowera ku Quebrada de Piaxtla. Njira yopita ku Tayoltita inali yolowera ndipo anthu omwe anasiya ku Miravalles anali malo athu ofufuza. Tinapeza njira yomwe inatisiyira pafupifupi kumapeto kwa chigwa, kutsogolo kwa mapangawo okhala ndi nyumba. Tikuwona kuvuta kuwapeza.
Zonse zakonzeka!
Chifukwa chake timakonza ulendo wokafufuza Quebrada de Piaxtla. M'gululi munali Manuel Casanova ndi Javier Vargas, ochokera ku UNAM Mountaineering and Exploration Organisation, a Denisse Carpinteiro, wophunzira zamabwinja ku enah, Walther Bishop Jr., José Luis González, Miguel Ángel Flores Díaz, José Carrillo Parra komanso , Walther ndi ine. A Dan Koeppel ndi Steve Casimiro adalumikizana nafe. Tidalandira thandizo kuchokera ku Boma la Durango komanso maziko a Vida para el Bosque.
Zonsezi zinayamba ndi ndege yovomerezeka. Mu mphindi 15 tinafika ku Mesa del Tambor, gawo lokwera kwambiri la Quebrada de Piaxtla. Zinali zowoneka bwino komanso zosamveka bwino. Tidayandikira kukhoma ndikuyamba kuwona mapanga okhala ndi nyumba. Ndinayesa kupeza njira zolumikizira nyumbazo, koma zikuwoneka kuti kunalibe. Tidawona malo ena ojambula m'mapanga omwe adapangidwa m'malo osafikika. Tinabwerera ku Tayoltita ndipo tinayamba maulendo osamutsa ogwira ntchitowo kuchigwa chaching'ono kutsogolo kwa khoma lamiyala.
Pamwamba
Tikafika kumtunda, ku Mesa del Tambor, tinayamba kutsikira mpaka pansi. Patadutsa maola asanu ndi limodzi tinafika pamtsinje wa San Luis, womwe unali pafupi kwambiri ndi pansi pa chigwacho. Awa anali msasa wathu.
Tsiku lotsatira gulu laling'ono lidasanthula kufunafuna kulowa m'mapanga okhala ndi nyumba. Nthawi ya 6:00 masana anabwerera. Adafika kumapeto kwa canyon, mpaka ku Santa Rita, adadutsa ndikufika koyambirira kwa mapanga. Iwo adakwera chigwa, kutsatira kutsetsereka. Kuchokera pamenepo, motsogozedwa ndi mpanda wowopsa, adayendera tsamba loyambalo, lomwe, ngakhale lasungidwa bwino, lakhala likuwonetsa kale zakupezeka posachedwa. Mwambiri, nyumba za adobe ndi miyala zidali bwino. Kuchokera pamsasapo, ndi magalasi oyang'anira akazitape, chiphaso sichinadutse. Tinaganiza zoyesa tsiku lotsatira.
Malo achitetezo achiwiri
Poyeserera kwatsopano tiwonjezera Walther, Dan ndi ine. Tinali okonzeka masiku atatu, timadziwa kuti sitipeza madzi. Potsetsereka kotsika pakati pa 45º ndi 50º tifika pamtunda womwe ofufuzawo adafika dzulo lake. Timapeza masitepe opangidwa ndi nzika zamakedzana pazomera zawo. Tinafika pamphepete kakang'ono komwe otsogolera athu amaganiza kuti ndi njira yopita kumapanga ena. Ngakhale kuti kalatayo inali ndi masitepe owopsa komanso owopsa, okhala ndi nthaka yolimba, zochepa zokha, zomera zaminga ndi kutsetsereka kosachepera 45 no, tidawerengera kuti titha kuzidutsa. Posakhalitsa tinafika kuphanga. Tinaika Khola Nambala 2. Linalibe nyumba, koma munali ziboda komanso pansi panjenjemera. Pomwepo patangoyenda pafupifupi 7 kapena 8 mita yomwe tidatsikira kenako kukwera kovuta kwambiri komwe timayenera kuteteza ndi chingwe ndikukwera modekha. Panalibe malo olakwitsa, zolakwitsa zilizonse ndipo titha kugwa ma mita mazana angapo, kuposa 500.
Tikafika kuphanga lachitatu lomwe limasunga zipinda zosachepera zitatu ndi khola laling'ono. Zomangamanga zimapangidwa ndi adobe ndi miyala. Tidapeza zidutswa zadothi ndi zigoba za chimanga.
Tinapitilira njira yathu yowonekera m'mphepete mwake mpaka titafika kuphanga la nambala 4. Munali zotsalira zazitali pafupifupi zisanu kapena zisanu ndi chimodzi za zipika za miyala ndi miyala, zotetezedwa bwino kuposa zoyambazo. Ndizodabwitsa kuwona momwe nzika zamakedzana zimamangira nyumba zawo m'malo awa, kuwapanga kukhala ndi madzi ambiri ndipo palibe umboni wa izi, gwero loyandikira kwambiri ndi mtsinje wa Santa Rita, mamitala mazana angapo motsetsereka, ndikukwera Madzi ochokera mumtsinje uwu amaoneka ngati masewera.
Patadutsa maola ochepa timafika poti khoma limangotembenuka pang'ono ndikupeza mtundu wa ma circus (geomorphological). Popeza bwaloli ndilokulirapo, kamtengo kakang'ono ka kanjedza kanapangidwa. Pamapeto pake pali mphako, Na. 5. Ili ndi zotsekera zosachepera zisanu ndi zitatu. Zikuwoneka kuti ndizosungidwa bwino komanso zomangidwa bwino. Tidapeza zidutswa zadothi, zokometsera chimanga, zopukutira ndi zinthu zina. Tinamanga msasa pakati pa migwalangwa.
Tsiku lotsatira…
Tinapitilizabe ndipo tinafika kuphanga nambala 6, tili ndi zotsekera ziwiri zazikulu, chimodzi chozungulira, ndi zisanu zazing'ono pafupi kwambiri zomwe zimawoneka ngati nkhokwe. Tidapeza chidutswa cha molcajete, metate, ziphuphu za chimanga, zikopa ndi zinthu zina. Anagogomeza chidutswa cha fupa, mwachiwonekere chigaza cha munthu, chomwe chinali ndi bowo, ngati kuti chinali mbali ya mkanda kapena chithumwa.
Timapitilizabe ndikufika kuphanga 7, lalitali kwambiri kuposa onse, kuposa 40 mita kutalika ndikufika pafupifupi 7. Anakhalanso amodzi mwa malo osangalatsa kwambiri ofukula mabwinja. Panali zotsalira zazitali zosachepera zisanu ndi zitatu kapena zisanu ndi zinayi, zina zosungidwa bwino. Panali nkhokwe zingapo. Zonse zopangidwa ndi adobe ndi miyala. Pafupifupi zipinda zonse pansi pake panali ponse ponse ndi adobe, ndipo lalikulu kwambiri panali chitofu chopangidwa ndi zinthuzo. Panali zojambula zazing'ono za ocher ndi zoyera zopanga zojambula zosavuta. Tinadabwa kuti tinapeza miphika itatu yathunthu, yayikulu bwino, ndi mbale ziwiri, sitayilo yawo inali yosavuta, yopanda zokongoletsa kapena zojambula. Panalinso masheya, metates, makutu a chimanga, zidutswa zamagulu, nthiti ndi mafupa ena (sitikudziwa ngati ali anthu), ndodo zina zazitali za otate, zogwiritsidwa ntchito bwino, imodzi mwa mita imodzi ndi theka yogwiritsiridwa ntchito popha nsomba. Kukhalapo kwa miphikayo kunatiwonetsera momveka bwino kuti anthu am'mbuyomu atakhala ife, ndiye tidayamba kuwafikira, chifukwa chake tidali kumayiko osagonana kwenikweni.
Mafunso a 2007
Kuchokera pazomwe zawonedwa, tikukhulupirira kuti ndi zinthu zokwanira kuganiza kuti chikhalidwe chomwe chimamanga nyumbazi ndichikhalidwe chofanana cha Oasisamerica, ngakhale kutsimikizira motsimikiza, masiku ena ndi maphunziro ena sakanakhalako. Zachidziwikire, zotsalira izi si Paquimé, ndichifukwa chake mwina akuchokera ku chikhalidwe cha Oasisamericana chosadziwika mpaka pano. M'malo mwake tili pachiyambi pomwe ndipo padakali zambiri zoti tifufuze ndikuwerenga. Tikudziwa kale za zigwa zina ku Durango komwe kuli zotsalira izi ndipo zikutiyembekezera.
Pambuyo Paphanga No. 7 sizinathekenso kupitiliza, chifukwa chake tidayamba kubwerera kwathu, komwe kumatitengera pafupifupi tsiku lonse.
Ngakhale tinali titatopa, tinasangalala ndi zomwe tapeza. Tinakhalabe masiku ochepa mumtsinje kuti tiwone malo ena, kenako helikopita idatitengera ku San José kuti pamapeto pake ititengere ku Tayoltita.
Gwero: Unknown Mexico No. 367 / September 2007
